tauzero

Just planning the restring for my 4-string Thumbs: I think that's quite pleasing.

And it's gone, so someone got a good buy. Nice basses - the neck on the 5-string is a bit on the chunky side but the 4-string is fine. I like the Hohner headlesses enough to have a B2AV as a backup bass - takes up very little room, doesn't need a stand, makes a pretty good noise and reasonably playable.

How twisted is the neck? The headstock looks as if it's at 90 degrees to the camera, the body doesn't.

At this point you will be advised to get a Zoom MS-60B and get rid of at least two pedals.

SMIDSY. I nearly managed to get that Jayne Middlemiss on the back of my bike.

If it's right at the front, it means it's getting rid of the subsonics before they hit the compressor and potentially push it into compressing when it shouldn't. For effects further down the chain, it prevents them getting driven into clipping by the subsonics.

And also swap the compressor out for the MS60B, so you've got two free slots.

So he set the bar low then. 😁😁

Looking at their Ebay store, they have one with more advanced Guyker-like tuners (for three times the price), but most of them have the same setup as mine has. A couple have more sophisticated bridges, one with a BBOT, another with individual bridge pieces. It looks quite a feasible upgrade but it all seems to work OK as it is. The extra leverage of the allen key and the fact that (like most headlesses) it's a screw thread rather than a worm gear means that it is the easiest and most accurate tuning of any bass, headed or headless, that I've used.

Tuning systems for headless basses have cropped up in several topics, so I thought I'd disclose what the Fingy uses. Whipping the wooden cover off reveals this: The cap screws go through washers and a flat load-spreading plate, through the body, and into threaded holes in brass blocks sitting in routed grooves. The strings pass through holes in the brass blocks and the ball ends anchor them. Turning the cap screws with the provided allen key moves the brass blocks up and down the screw, using the string tension to keep everything in place. I haven't yet changed a string (haven't made as much use of it as I should, in fact), so I'm not sure if the ends of the cap screws are butted up to the ends of the slots or whether there are holes at the ends of the slots to stop them moving around. The bridge is a very simple non-adjustable one which could be replaced by something like the bridge part of the Warwick 2-piece bridge if that was really necessary. Apart from the trivial annoyance of inserting the allen key, tuning is an absolute delight - the allen key makes it easy to turn and get the tuning spot on.

As you don't have a zero fret, have you got an edge to the string holes in the string holder so that the string passes over a defined end point, rather than the end point being where the clamp screw contacts it?

I've got both - saw a Duo for sale on Ebay a while back and got it, then more recently picked up the Dwarf from Thomann as B-stock but didn't get rid of the Duo.

The ME50B won't make a difference as the output is at the same level as the input - about 150mV peak to peak signal, whereas the line in is expecting 1V peak to peak. How are you proposing to drive the monitors when using them as monitors?

The duo that I was 50% of supported the Strawbs sometime in the 80s, and I had the opportunity to tell Dave Cousins what a great influence he'd been on my songwriting. I don't know if he would have regarded that as a compliment, of course. I also had a gig programme signed by Gary Glitter and Gerry Shephard as they left the New Street Odeon. I have no idea what happened to that.

I was the final recruit to what was a five-piece - two gits plus the singer could also git for the occasional song, plus drums, plus me. By the time I was in, there was a list of maybe a dozen songs. One git could play some soloes, but never progressed beyond what he already knew (and his intro to Paranoid was the most truly awful I've ever heard, though everything else was OK), so he got dumped and singer got to do more git. Songlist expanded, some songs got added to it because we jammed them a bit at one session and decided to give them a proper go next time out. A couple of songs have faded away. We all have occasional suggestions, and responses vary from "I don't want to do that" through "We'll give it a bash" to "I'd really like to do that". We've never decided on an official way to select songs, or whether there should be a veto, we just achieve consensus somehow. As it's classic rock, there's not many complicated and iconic bass lines, they tend to be one or the other, and I've probably learnt half of them at some point in the past.

Limelight might get a bit sniffy at the use of a rather similar name as a competitor. I'm not a fan of either Fenders or relics, but I do think you've done a good job there and achieved what you set out to do.

I prefer the pearl. Makes a nice contrast against the purple.

Surely it should have been a Limiting Addition, not a Limited Addition.

Insert joke about 404 being not found here. Nice bass BTW.

Have you tried connecting something to the AUX input and seeing if that comes out in stereo? I'd expect sound out of both earphones. The right earphone would go to the ring connection on the socket and the left would go to the tip, so it sound like either the tip isn't connected or you haven't pushed the earphones plug in fully.

Sadly can't make it as I'll be away that weekend.

Right, I was going by the claims on the Arduino website.

From arduino.cc: "If you used Arduino Nano in your projects in the past, the Nano Every is a pin-equivalent substitute. Your code will still work, and you will NOT need to re-wire those motors you planned in your original design. The main differences are: a better processor, and a micro-USB connector."

I understand now. I think the only times I've used them have been with softwood or MDF/chipboard, so that explains why I haven't had problems.

Rather belatedly - I've used inserts a couple of times and always used an allen key to insert them. What's the logic behind using a locked bolt instead? Does the allen key expand the insert slightly or something like that?