tauzero

Warwick JD Thumb and another Warwick Thumb, defretted and reprofiled to JD Thumb proportions. Fantastic to play but I've been playing 5s since 2007. I did use them for a little while with a Marillion tribute band (never got to gig), now I'm rotating them in for open mic nights.

The Cadbury family for selling up to Kraft. Bastards.

I wrote euro at first, then wasn't sure so I did a google and it came back with a conversion into lat. I should have looked just below that, where the first entry says that the Latvian currency is the euro. So, ten euros then.

You're just going to offer anybody who says yes ten lats for the bass they hate, aren't you?

In that case, ignore all the stuff about emulating a DB with an EB. I used to swap between EUB, fretless EB, and Ashbory (silicone strung 19" scale bass) when playing with a ceilidh band - just played whichever one I felt like on any tune. Just find an EB that suits you. If you're not too far from Thomann's showroom (https://www.thomann.de/gb/compinfo_route.html) you could go there and try some of their fretlesses.

The LG TV upstairs in my office is 14 years old and was put up there when I replaced it with another LG TV, which is now 5 years old. The only thing I can fault it on is the Discovery+ app, which is incredibly laggy, but I don't know if that's the smart TV being stupid or a poorly written app (other streaming services work fine).

The loose one - rechargeable batteries. I always carry a spare pair of charged batteries and check the battery level before starting. The ones on a pedalboard - Vitoos ISO8 power supply.

So the original tuners are more period correct in function as well as appearance then.

AIUI, the ring and sleeve are connected to battery negative and preamp ground one way round on most basses, but certain ones have them the other way round. Most wireless transmitters don't give a monkey's but there are certain ones (presumably ones that charge through their own TRS plugs) that are sensitive to which way round the connections are, and for those the simplest solution is to connect them via a mono in-line socket and mono plug.

Has anybody managed a freeze type effect on either an MS-60B or an MS-70CDR? I suspect the TrgHldDly may be the key to it, which isn't in the standard MS-60B's repertoire.

The "rare light oak" version of the Super Headless has just popped up on Gumtree for even more. https://www.gumtree.com/p/guitar-instrument/westone-super-headless-x900lo-4-string-bass-guitar-super-rare-wow-/1474765841 It's also got an LED and an extra switch compared with the birdseye maple and translucent red versions, so perhaps it is super rare after all.

Aguilar OBP-3? Delano Sonar 3?

Natural finish with some sort of lacquer finish, like the B2s? ISTR someone mixing brown paint and superglue to match the colour and filling the damaged bit with that. Ah, this may help:

I once worked for Medical Portfolio Ltd, a subsidiary of ICL based in Tipton. In deference to the ICL system of naming their buildings with the first three letters of the location and a sequence number, we called the building TIP01. Anyhoo, ICL brought us in-house, in one of the Birmingham buildings. After a while, the pathology system that I was the sole support for was quietly dropped from the product line, and I was quietly dropped from the staff. ICL paid a couple of guys at Hallamshire hospital IT department to maintain the system - their programming experience was from writing Spectrum BASIC. The consequences were not good. https://www.theguardian.com/uk/2001/sep/14/martinwainwright https://www.ranker.com/list/actual-y2k-failures/tracey-graham Note: these are ascribed to Y2K errors, which they weren't. The dickheads who did the support didn't use the inbuilt routines to change date to day number and day number to date, but did something stupid instead.

Super Headless. I think Quantums (quanta?) are going for around £250, and there's been one Rail sold in Ebay's history for somewhere fairly adjacent to £650.

I've been a 5-string player since 2007, but I do have a couple of 4-strings which I'm hanging on to. I did use them for a little while in a Marillion tribute band (which I never gigged with) but after they dispensed with my services, they went back on the wall. However, about six months ago I started going to an open mic night and playing bass for a few people, and I've been cycling through all my basses, so the Thumb 4-strings have been getting another outing. I enjoy playing them but feel no urge to go back to them.

I'll repeat my suggestion of a Roland XV or JV module, or for that matter a Korg one, or similar. Or a hardware soft synth - https://zynthian.org/ or https://geekfunklabs.com/products/squishbox/ for example.

The Zoom B3 is really really fussy about having an isolated power supply. I used a Vitoos ISO-8 with mine - sadly no longer available. However, the B3 isn't a massive current draw, unlike something like an HX Stomp. Some power supply blocks use wall warts, some are mains powered. There are pros and cons to each - the mains powered ones mean you're running a mains lead to the pedalboard, the wall wart ones mean you can use a DC extension lead cable-tied along its length to the jack-jack lead running from the amp to the pedalboard, but wall warts do need care taken with the leads - never wrap a lead around a wall wart, always coil it separately and velcro tie it so it doesn't get stressed where it joins the wall wart body.

Banzai Music have the exact switch: https://www.banzaimusic.com/alpha-2p4t-rotary-switch.html

Could I reserve one too?

Was it powered on when catastrophe befell? If not, it should be fine once it's completely dried out.

Ah yes. I remember wondering about the slightly RIM Marseerish tail end of it (the fish tail) but knew it wasn't a RIM.

Wot she said.

Two AAs, like its predecessor. A couple of rechargables will keep an MS-60B going for four or five hours, I would expect the Plus version to do similar.

I put the question to Mrs Zero a little while ago because she works at a plant hire company that hires generators, which are quoted in kVA not kW. Although she couldn't tell me why they weren't the same, she could tell me that they weren't, and there was a formula for getting kW from kVA. I've just been spurred on to find out why, and I have an answer, at least for transformers. https://www.electricaltechnology.org/2012/02/why-transformer-rating-in-kva-not-in-kw.html What it boils down to is that a transformer converts an input voltage and current into an output voltage and current depending on the ratio of primary and secondary windings - that's the VA bit as the product of the input V and A will always equal the product of the output V and A. However, the power output from the transformer will be dependent on the power factor of the load.