neepheid

They most probably are humbuckers. SD don't do anything off the shelf that will fit in here. These look like guitar humbucker sized pickups, like on the Epiphone Les Paul Standard bass. Direct replacements for bass which come to mind are EMG-HB (active), Rio Grande Pitbull and TV Jones Thundertron (English mount).

It's annoying from the point of view that when I search for Gibson basses I usually get half a tonne of Epiphone stuff thrown in that I have to pick through. Unlike the above example I find that most of the time people mention both brands and just try and cash in on the loose family tie to the more expensive brand. About as pointless as wasting 4 characters of your auction title on "L@@K", but hey ho.

Plenty oil money up here, I've seen basses at pub gigs like Ken Smiths, Jaydees, high end Warwicks (saw an Infinity once at an open mic), Spectors (impossible to tell at range how "posh" it was though), quite a few USA Fenders, a few Gibsons (not my own!) but I've also seen/heard people getting great results out of Squiers, Ibanezes, Yamahas and other stuff. As for me, my Gibson G-3 has sparked the occasional after gig discussion (like "what is that?") and my not that spectacular rig (Hartke 3500 and Ashdown ABM 4x10) has generated positive comments after gear sharing from those who could be bothered seeking me out to say thanks. It's nice when people take an interest

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1322828' date='Aug 1 2011, 10:22 AM']You only need to earth one bridge piece Matt. Think about it. Where are the strings attached? [/quote] Of course, they're all going through the same headpiece. Doh. Thanks man See why I don't do this for a living?

[quote name='Johnston' post='1322805' date='Aug 1 2011, 10:03 AM']Another way of making the template is. Cut it close then give it a good layer of Isopon and put your neck in the template. The Isopon hardens to the shape of the neck and bingo perfect template.[/quote] That's a clever idea. I'll keep that in mind for future - I'll use my tape trick this time as I've got it all worked out.

Oh, and I know it makes absolutely no financial sense, but I've decided to obtain some ABM headless hardware in order to do this project. A total extravagance (£170 for the headpiece and 4 individual saddles - more than the bass cost to obtain so far...), but I've come to the conclusion that if I'm going to do it right and I'm actually going to play the damn thing then I'd feel better having stuff that feels right. If I use individual saddles then I'll be able to place the bridge super accurately. This will be a big advantage when bringing together stuff that should never have ever met. It also means no major surgery at the bridge end (the bridge I have will require some serious gouging to accommodate the tuner rollers) as they just sit flat on the deck. The headpiece allows the use of single or double ball end strings. One question comes to mind - what's the best way of earthing individual saddle bridges? The quick bodge would be a strip of copper shielding foil underneath all four then a wire from last saddle to the cavity, but is there a better, less visible way? Individual bridge units - expensive, but looks good, no?

Right, you want some progress then, do you? OK, I have been shamed into making some. Over the weekend I got to work on attaching the neck to the body. Having never made a neck pocket in my life before (this neck is so different from the old one it's like making a new one) I was understandably nervous about this. I was reading this very useful article which gave me the impetus to get off my backside: [url="http://buildyourguitar.com/resources/pocket/index.htm"]http://buildyourguitar.com/resources/pocket/index.htm[/url] However, I'm not quite ready to go straight to the body, so instead I made a template out of MDF marked with a centre line so I can place it on the (similarly marked) body. Using the same trick of clamping two lengths of wood to the sides of the neck then removing the neck I got this (with a router with a roller at the top of the cutter): What a pain in the backside that my router lacks the plunge depth to do that in one pass, I had to go around, remove the guides then go again with the router directly on the piece. I will need to obtain a different router when I come to do this for real. Anyway, I then did a test run in some spare MDF: Which unfortunately was "Fender tight" : Quite pleased with the fit at the heel though (did that by hand on the template, chickened out of freehand routing it...): No worries though, I will use a trick I learned when I was doing the rebate cutting for the Les Paul selector switch cover. In order to make the hole smaller, I will put a few layers of insulating tape on the roller, thus placing the cutter away from the edge of the template by tiny increments. Cut a long story short it looks like 3 layers is the magic number, 4 seems a bit too tight for unfinished wood, but I'm going to check it out with Rich tonight who can advise me on how much he thinks the finish will reduce the gap. Once I'm sure that 3 is the way to go, I will seek out a router with sufficient plunge depth and go for it!

It's either 4 or 5mm (probably 4), definitely metric, just buy a typical set of keys and you should be fine.

I take my time to research and post things up at a fair price, so it does tick me off when people come in with daft offers. They also cannot read, as I often state that the price is firm. But the main thing that ticks me off is that some people seem to think that I'll pay their postage for them. They can get poked, I'm not operating a charity here. Postage is a separate consideration. If I put something up at £100 + postage then the total price will not be £100, because that means I get £100 - postage. I don't see this as haggling, I see it as taking the mick. Be warned - I do not and will not react well to such requests. I'd rather eat beans on toast for a month than sell to those who try this on.

Aberdeen City have a short but sweet section on busking on their website: Busking There is no licence required to busk or perform street entertainment in Aberdeen City, however it is advisable you contact Grampian Police to ensure that you are not/will not be causing an obstruction. [url="http://www.aberdeencity.gov.uk/Licences/licensing/lic_busking.asp"]http://www.aberdeencity.gov.uk/Licences/li...lic_busking.asp[/url] Fill yer boots.

Bit late now, but convert it to rear routed and ditch the plate What about a clear, regular Jazz shaped pickguard? That way you protect your veneer and get to see it

I've fixed such a problem before - I used a syringe to squeeze plenty glue in the crack then clamped the hell out of it for 24 hours. It's probably worth trying that first before you go to the extremes of fretboard replacement. The worst thing that'll happen is the glue won't take and you take the fingerboard off anyway.

[quote name='BigRedX' post='1318650' date='Jul 27 2011, 08:37 PM']But I would guess that most of us never sit down when we play live so why practice like that? I practice how I'm going to play the songs live. That's what what practice is for.[/quote] I like feeling comfortable at home, so when I practice at home you can bet I sit my lazy backside down When I rehearse with the rest of the band, I stand. Either way, the bass is where my hands expect it to be.

[quote name='cocco' post='1036264' date='Nov 25 2010, 02:01 PM'][b]The entire Gibson bass range[/b]. All sound great. I have a grabber that just sounds awesome to me. But. And it's a big but [b]every last one is ridiculously neck heavy[/b].[/quote] I am annoyed by this comment and I will return to it when I've calmed down (and stopped typing stuff then deleting it).

[quote name='uncle psychosis' post='1318197' date='Jul 27 2011, 01:09 PM']I currently play a Jazz copy and really like the neck on it (I have small hands and stubby fingers).[/quote] If that's the case then I'd advise against a G&L [i]Tribute[/i] L-2000 - big clubby P neck (on mine at least). If you want a Jazz profile neck on an L-2000 then you'll have to find a USA one I'm afraid. With that proviso, I'd say the G&L is the pick of that bunch you mention.

No, nothing doing at the moment. Currently stalking some stuff on eBay which will make my life easier for this project...

A bit steep for the amount of work required, in my opinion. Edit: SNAP!

It sort of reminds me of this: Another ugly duckling.

It would help to know what preamp you're using and what it expects as an input.

You tell me: I would guess medium, but it just seems right to me. I wear my bass so that it's at the same(ish) height regardless if whether I'm sitting down or standing.

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1315577' date='Jul 25 2011, 11:51 AM']Have you actually tried this out with yours Matt? ... hang on I bet you don't even have a Jazz case, as you can't stand girly jazzes. I just tried my L-1000 (which I believe the L-2000 is almost identical to - dimensionally) in a very snug fitting Kinsman Jazz hardcase and it went in perfectly... didn't get stuck or rattle about or anything.[/quote] What I meant by "too rigidly Jazz shaped" was if it has some sort of form fitting insert

Might as well throw mine in here - BB614 in black - my "office" bass

[quote name='uncle psychosis' post='1315456' date='Jul 25 2011, 10:06 AM']Apologies for bumping an old thread but I have an L2000 question that isn't worth starting a new thread for. Will an L2000 fit in a case which is designed specifically for a Fender Jazz (ie moulded to the body shape etc)? Thanks[/quote] It won't fit if the case is too rigidly Jazz shaped - the L-2000 body is much more like a Precision than a Jazz (no offset waist). It's not a good enough reason not to get an L-2000 though - if it doesn't fit then just get another case

If this stays low it could be a bargain for someone: [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260821480729"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260821480729[/url] Currently sitting at £59.99, 9 hours to go. Local pickup in Wallingford, Oxfordshire.