neepheid

I think I've finally got my head around the whole cutaway bevelling thing. I also got some inspiration from the cutaways of various EB/SG basses (keeping it in the Gibson family ) - [url="http://www.flyguitars.com/gibson/bass/parts/cutaways.php"]http://www.flyguitars.com/gibson/bass/parts/cutaways.php[/url] I'm trying to keep the Thunderbird's combination of curves (the outside shape) and straight edges (the raised middle section). Basically the edge rounding becomes a flat surface to form the bevel. I intend to start the bevel at fret 18, follow the shape of the body to the edge of the raised centre section then come back in to meet the line of the body near the pickguard screw hole before the one at the point of the lower horn. The angle of the bevel will be between the level of the lower deck of the body at fret 18 to the bottom of the neck pocket at the front of said neck pocket. Which will hopefully look something like this: Thoughts before I irrevocably go down this path?

[quote name='StevieD_FenderP2009' post='1333504' date='Aug 9 2011, 12:59 PM']Honestly wish I hadn't bought this bass.[/quote] If you can, put it back. Problem solved.

A +1 for Axesrus.

Still scheming on how best to modify the body without losing the overall Thunderbird aesthetic. In the mean time I have removed the extraneous nub sticking out from the body (the new neck pocket is plenty deep that it doesn't need it). I've also mostly stripped the neck and gave the body a bit more of a scrub (that matt black is bombproof though!) Looks like I have enough thickness to do some tapering where the body meets the neck, got to slim down that heel a little!

I don't know what that means, other than I'm guessing it's a bad thing and to expect fireworks/loss of magic smoke soon?

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1331589' date='Aug 8 2011, 12:47 AM']Very cool. Now to get that dusty end access sorted.[/quote] Yeah, the final structural things (where to put the neck screws) are predicated upon what I decide to do about that. Expect some ideas being thrown around in the thread soon.

Well, I would guess that's us past the point of no return. It's a bit of a tighter fit than I wanted (had to make a new template, it seemed I had picked up some NDF from B&Q - [i]no[/i] density fibreboard ), but it's easier to remove wood than it is to add it

[quote name='EdwardHimself' post='1330728' date='Aug 7 2011, 10:57 AM']When you say the "hump" you mean the neck volute right? Well it's looking pretty good now, still a bit of sanding work to be done to get it really smooth but looking good so far.[/quote] I wouldn't call it a volute, just where a flat surface meets a rounded surface

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1330693' date='Aug 7 2011, 10:34 AM']So where did you deliver the final coup de grâce, out at your dad's or your own workshop (soon to be Jayne's studio )[/quote] I removed it at home with a good old tenon saw

Well, that's knackered that then: There was a bit of a hump to get rid of at the head, so after some attacking with a chisel and sandpaper I got this: Still some shaping to be done at the headpiece, but it's definitely a headless neck now

[quote name='EdwardHimself' post='1328638' date='Aug 5 2011, 12:54 PM']I like that colour. Of course the problem is that it does come off with repeated use. I like the look of that hardware anyway. Looks nice.[/quote] I'm sure it's lovely if everything's the same. I'm just bitter because I've been sold cosmo black stuff on the basis that it's proper black before and got an unpleasant surprise

Hardware's here. Slight raised blood pressure moment when the person the courier claimed had signed for it had no recollection of doing so. Found it somewhere else at work (phew). Looking good (nice and proper black, none of this "cosmo" black rubbish, eh Gotoh?), unfortunately I have band practice tonight and a gig on Saturday, so I won't be able to muck about with it much until Sunday. Also, the Humbrol enamel didn't take to the pickguard, came out/off when I made an attempt to level it off, hmph.

Damn it, forgot about those!

[quote name='Al Heeley' post='1288300' date='Jun 30 2011, 10:15 PM']you're making a pretty big assumption that most people are swayed by one (or more) posts from opinionated people.[/quote] If you think that doesn't happen around here then you either don't come here that often or you've got your head in the sand. There are a few people on here with a big enough name (whether warranted or otherwise) from whom a negative word on the price or provenance of the item would completely derail any sale attempt. The whole sale thread hijacking thing is just damn rude. You don't go to the car dealership with a megaphone, stand in front of a motor you feel is overpriced and start bellowing that fact out into the street do you? No, if you think there's some wiggle room then you enter into a PRIVATE negotiation with the salesperson. Why do people think that the normal rules of engagement and social norms do not apply on the internet? Arbitrary nonsense! That's like saying "you can't complain that my kid hit your kid because it happened in the sandpit". That's quite enough analogies for one post

[quote name='Lfalex v1.1' post='1326207' date='Aug 3 2011, 10:00 PM']You can easily damage your hearing by wnding up the volume without realising how loud your headphones really are.[/quote] I have a simple test for that - I take the headphones off and put them in my lap and play some music through them. If I can hear the music at that range then it's too loud.

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1326386' date='Aug 4 2011, 01:20 AM']I'm utterly perplexed (and obviously nosey), how come you've had one that long and you've only been playing for 4 years? edit : Oh I have a couple of leads from circa '82 they are smelly and I wouldn't trust them at all. [/quote] Heh, I did have a brief flirtation with skinny stringed guitars in my yoof. I had one of these: I didn't stick at it, didn't learn much, couldn't play the songs I wanted to so it became an ornament until I flogged it and the wee amp. That lead (and a few plectrums) are the only remnants of that era which remain today. Also, I'm only counting playing properly (as in actually sticking at it) in that time. I bought my first bass (the Epi EB-3) back in 2003 (I think). Thankfully the laziness wasn't terminal this time

[quote name='Johnston' post='1326053' date='Aug 3 2011, 07:53 PM']If it were me I would get a bit of spare lumber. Test your Neck template (also gives a valuable practice run) . Screw on your bridge and neck and straight edge it and see what gap between body and strings are even glue on or screw on some 10mm dowel to represent the pups.[/quote] That sounds just the ticket.

Calliper still working - Here are the measurements: Pickups (when screwed in as low as I would want to) protrude 9mm from the surface. Neck heel is 30-31 deep (not including frets) Current neck pocket is 17-18mm deep (due to neck angle) Won't know for sure until I get the bridges but from the info so far I think I could do a straight (non angled) neck pocket because in an 18mm deep pocket the neck would protrude 12-13mm. That might even possibly be too high, necessitating a deeper neck pocket by a few mm. The scheming continues...

I hate waiting for stuff when other stuff is predicated upon its arrival! Thomann have been taunting me with status updates this morning (the package is in Köln, the package has left Köln). In the meantime, I have been beheading the Thunderbird logo on the pickguard. Good old Humbrol enamel model paint, ahh the childhood memories The rose-tinted glasses blocked out the 6 hour time between coats though

[quote name='bigjohn' post='1325819' date='Aug 3 2011, 04:15 PM']I too have a [b]1908[/b]'s whirlwind. Lovely it is. Not a crackle, despite being used, abused and being my only lead for years.[/quote] I think we have a winner

I still have the first lead I ever bought - a Proel cable with Neutrik ends from 1996, so 15 years old. Still going strong.

I'm going to have to get scientific on this I think. Once I have the bridges then I'll be able to determine their min/max height from the top of the body, the height of the pickups and that information combined with the lateral positions of these points and the depth of the neck heel + frets will determine the depth of the neck pocket and the angle (if any) I need to do this right. Warning noted on the Epi T-bird centre step - I suspected that would be the case. I think I'm going to need a new battery for my calliper.

[quote name='ogrimark' post='1325279' date='Aug 3 2011, 09:56 AM']Sorry, Bored at work and i have only just found this thread. I am loving it, Especially the graphic you did of the White with Black hardware. I am a big fan of the Tbird and am looking forward to seeing how this turns out. cheers.[/quote] Then I guess seeing it from the back won't help you return to your duties

[quote name='Johnston' post='1325213' date='Aug 3 2011, 08:42 AM']+1 You could just shape it, keep it tilted and adjust the saddles. Or Level it and Shim if Necessary. But don't the Epi T-bird Pickups sit rather proud of the body (Been ages since I played mine and can't be arsed going up stairs to look ). If you level it you might run the risk of the pickups not lowering enough to clear the strings.[/quote] That's a good point - better screw them back in and have a look. If they're high as well then that extra plunge depth on my Dad's router may be called into action again on the pickup holes I will factor this into my calculations, thanks

Good news - having consulted with my Dad, his router can plunge until the collet/nut is beginning to show below the base plate. Perfect. Not so good news - the existing neck pocket is on a slight slope. Of course this was to make sure that the levitating monstrosity that is the 3 point bridge would be able to get down low enough. I'm pretty sure these saddles will be much lower down. Should I just take it level and shim if necessary, or try to replicate the slope? Maybe it would be prudent to wait until the hardware arrives...