LukeFRC

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1408909015' post='2534544'] Yeah I spotted that, which is why I thought it [i]might[/i] be a possible source of change for his SDS and maybe other conventionally built basses. I don't know enough about carbon fibre to say how it behaves under constant stress. [/quote] Nothing I would have thought, Isn't that what it's designed to do? To be uber lightweight and strong and work under constant stress... otherwise you wouldn't be able to use it for things like F1 cars, Tour de France bikes and so on. You can't have a F1 car where you drive it far enough and the road vibrations cause it to develop all sorts of resonant frequencies in it's suspension armature....

Will I was wondering when you'd get round to building one - I've been tempted with my own build - pre made via Richard like yours, but the 12/6. how heavy did it turn out to be, and how's it compare to your omni

The whole wood changing thing is nice in theory.... but the second bass the OP uses as an example is a status.... not much wood there

[quote name='Biaeothanata-Bassist' timestamp='1408661666' post='2532410'] Man if i had the money, i'd bite your hand off, then buy the pre amp off you. They really are beautiful sounding pre's! I'm very tempted to just save for a Warwick Dark Lord Vampyre or the newer RockBass Vampyre (2 piece bridge and proper headstock) then take it somewhere to have the routes changed to Dual P routes. I know this would involve a re-spray on the front but i'm not fussed about that. I think I just had a heart attack reading that price list. Please don't do that again! haha. But seriously is that what the custom shop charge? That's ridiculous money. I know they produce fantastic instruments but wow, that's seriously OTT. [/quote] I don't know how anyone affords Warwicks new, let alone the custom shop!

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1405163481' post='2499290'] It turns out that I will have to put in another order with Bitsbox (bloomin' love that place!) after all, but I can't for a couple of weeks, leaving me with far too much thinking time... So I have had an idea for the LED indicator for my double muff box. There is probably a really obvious solution to it but I have started another new medication recently that has left my brain even woolier than usual so I can't think straight. Which is rather frustrating. There will be a standardish Big Muff on one side and a Musket on the other, each with their own footswitch. What I want to do is use a single RGB LED that will glow green when the Muff is on, red when the Musket is on and blue when both are on together. Anyone got any ideas? Something like this but with the third LED option. I am wondering if a relay of some sort might be called for. I have only ever used relays once before and that was many, many years ago. Edit: Looks like it I is actually as complicated as I was imagining. I have been Googling all day and asking for help has been less than fruitful. I might end up just using the red and blue parts (can't find a blue and red LED with 3 legs) so it is red on one switch, blue on the other, but when both are on it turns purple. [/quote] just a thought, when I stuck a Muff clone (russian green one for me) a chorus and a preamp in a box I made a wee board to separate the power supplies from one another. Can't remember what I did but I think it was a cap and a resistor on each outlet to separate them. No idea if it made a difference to not having them but at the time I must have felt I needed them. [quote name='ahpook' timestamp='1407449557' post='2520791'] I'm mulling this over as my next project - a JFET-based version of the Alembic F-2B preamp. I've always fancied building a 1U bass preamp - though this would be a good place to start. Anyone built anything similar ? I did have a version of the 'Flipster' JFET version of an Ampeg Portaflex, but didn't like the EQ that much. [/quote] Have a look for a very layout of the Caitlinbread SFT.... if you look at the flipster as a version of the Portaflex... the SFT is a version of a SVT with transistors instead of tubes. Really cool bit of kit and a fun build.

[quote name='chrismuzz' timestamp='1408626296' post='2531952'] This might be a ridiculous question, but if you filled a cab with like 32 tweeters would you get good low end response with better dispersion on the highs? [/quote] and your name may be Phil Jones...

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1408655777' post='2532360'] Cheers! It's been #1 since I got it, which - considering it's a J - is remarkable...! [/quote] and not sunburst! bit odd for you.

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1408572047' post='2531544'] Bill will probably describe this better but I know that when building cabinets, how they're braced and wall thickness/stiffness, you have to design the box with an understanding of how those drivers will behave inside that amount of space and whether the cabinet is sealed or ported, how bass response rolls off, whether any resonances occur... they all play a part in how it will sound. [/quote] aye, but being someone who designs cabs, and can prob tweak things to fit how he wants can prob get the sound he's aiming for with any size speaker. [quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1408576835' post='2531588'] I use the largest cab that I can comfortably carry, that's a JackLite 12, as opposed to the larger JL15 or smaller JL10. If it wasn't loud enough I'd probably use two JL10s, which would give higher output while still fitting in my car with ease. I have a JL15, I've only used it a couple of times, those being before I built the JL12. I just don't need its output capability, and it's a PITA to fit into my car. [/quote] cheers Bill

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1408569476' post='2531513'] Yes. Yes, although the difference will be heard in the mids and highs, not the bass. If all speaker sizes had a 'signature sound' then all tens would sound the same, as would all twelves and all fifteens. Not only is that not the case, but you can make the same driver sound different by loading it into a different enclosure. For that matter you can realize literally dozens of audibly different sounds using the same driver with different cab configurations. [/quote] so.... thinking out loud and hoping to take advantage of your knowledge.... if the only real factor is dispersion.... what would you use as optimum for bass? I know you use a 12 loaded horn loaded cab yourself.... I just wonder sometimes if we end up with all these different sizes because of fashion rather than design. Like you can see why a 810 was developed... and I guess a 410 is logical next step.... but mixing it with a 115 like you often see... doesn't make much sense.... and 112's seem to be in vogue at the moment... I guess they tend to be louder than the uncommon 110 and smaller and more portable than a 115...

[quote name='stevetut' timestamp='1408463317' post='2530449'] Just wanted to share pictures of my T40. I bought it last year from Ken Achard; it was presented to Ken by Hartley Peavey..... Made of magnolia, no scratchplate, figured maple neck and serial no 007. It is immaculate and apart from some setting up plays perfectly. I play it every day..... [/quote] lovely! does it weigh more or less made of magnolia?

how much bottom end do you need? schroder would be loud

theres a really rare 5th anniversary one that Warwickhunt has. It's not a double P but cheaper secondhand and I think it would possibly be able to reasonably get close sound wise is the corvette (or streamer) $$, Supposed to be good basses too. Other than that a Vampyre with duel P pups, they will build you one but at a cost! You might be cheepers finding a secondhand vampyre or even the rock bass version and paying a luthier to pup the dual P pups in. If you need the hellborg preamp part of the sound ......

we're doing it to stop your GAS discreet!

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1389222189' post='2331697'] One of the reasons why tweeters and electric bass are not a match made in heaven is that most tweeters don't do much below 4kHz, while added zing is really needed above 2.5kHz. That's with rounds; with flats there's no need for any assistance, even at 2.5kHz. But tweeters capable of going to 2.5kHz, and the crossovers that are necessary to go with them, are more expensive, so they're seldom employed. I wouldn't use tweeters with flats, and when shopping for a cab for rounds I'd be sure that the 2.5kHz range is covered by the tweeter or a midrange driver. [/quote] I must admit I went and looked at the SPL charts you've made for your cabs to see if you did that yourself! as much as i can read SPL charts it looks like it.

but would also say somethings are worth paying for. Truss rod problems, frets and bike wheel balancing

did you slacken the strings off? I tend to stand behind the bass, hold the body still with my knees and then gently pull the headstock back then tighten it. I just presume that it's not designed for one to try to use the threads of the truss as a ratchet system .

[quote name='andydye' timestamp='1408080643' post='2526855'] I think the suggestion is that you'd know why it's wrong after just 1 listen to it? [/quote] I didn't know if it was "one listen and you'll know if it works" or "one listen and you'll understand why it doesn't work" . [quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1408082953' post='2526864'] Only the expense. There are several threads on using pa speakers as bass speakers and if you like the sound of DId bass then these speakers should hadle this as well as any. It is still a 1x12 though, so enough for some people but not everyone. Try before you buy though. [/quote] cheers, I may try and find someplace to try that. I would be comparing it to a 1x12 setup anyway.

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1408057586' post='2526816'] One listen through... [/quote]que?