obbm

[quote name='crez5150' post='927973' date='Aug 17 2010, 08:25 PM']Not sure if this is still a relevant thread but I am now looking after LD Products in the UK. Please PM me with any questions you have. Jay[/quote] Thanks Jay, but the requirement has gone away. Have "S" taken them over or have you got a new challenge in life?

If both items of equipmmnt have input fuses then they are protected. The fuse in the plug is only there to protect the cable. As long as the cable is rated for the total load and the plug fuse is correctly rated for the cable then everything should be fine.

I met Si a few times at Bashes, communicated by email and was I able to help him out on a number of occassions. I am just stunned by this tragic news. Always a great sense of humour, he will be sadly missed. Deepest sympathy and heartfelt condolences to his friends and relations

[quote name='Lfalex v1.1' post='924816' date='Aug 14 2010, 12:27 PM']I'm surprised that they haven't issued a Fatwa on Rob Green for making replacement Graphite necks and imposed sanctions against East, Bartolini, MEC, Seymour Duncan, et al for having the temerity to manufacture electronics/pick-ups... BTW, If I made Wah pedals, I would most certainly name one of mine "FatWah" and maybe "AutoFatWah" [/quote] Surely it would hve to be a "PhatWah".

[quote name='gafbass02' post='924594' date='Aug 14 2010, 01:42 AM']I had a massive fall out with BP a few years ago.[/quote] +1 ... and I don't think I've posted there since. I argued that they were missing a trick by not using the Forum to gauge genuine customer feedback but unfortunately the management has an attitude of "don't confuse us with the facts our minds are made up". I suggested that they should try and understand why their customers would want to modify their basses. Went down like the proverbial lead balloon. Also I am still the owner of a heavily modded SR5 - the ultimate sin. Last year I was seriously considering a Sterling 5 but in the end decided to place my order with ACG for a truly custom bass which I know will be a better instrument.

This is a good place to start. [url="http://www.fender.com/support/diagrams/pdf_temp1/basses/0190209C/SD0190209CPg2.pdf"]http://www.fender.com/support/diagrams/pdf...0190209CPg2.pdf[/url] The concentric pots should be: centre spindle/bottom pot/250K outer spindle/upper pot/500K

[quote name='umph' post='920559' date='Aug 10 2010, 12:28 PM']Changing pots wont effect the tone unless you go for higher or lower impedence[/quote] Pots have no inductance or capacitance only resistance, so no impedance, but you knew that didn't you.

[quote name='fryer' post='918678' date='Aug 8 2010, 12:31 PM']Hi, I would like some help with choosing an Amp. I have a Epifani UL 310, which is fine with my Shuttle 6 for practice. The 310 could provide 750w at its 5.3 ohms. I need more power so was thinking of geting another UL 310. But what could I use to power 2 cabs at 5.3 ohms each ? Richard[/quote] I used to use a QSC PLX1602 in 1200-watt bridged mode to drive my UL310, then a UL502 and now its an MB F1. Any amp that has a decent power output into 4-ohms will be fine. The UL310 tends to open up the harder you drive it. As for two of them, been there done that, not necessary. Why would you want to do it apart from image. UL310 is loud. Any dual power amp head with one cab on each power stage. I used an Epi UL-902 and even tried an Ashdown LG1000. Alternatively any head that will work reliably into 2-ohms will be fine.

Glad it worked out for you in the end Colin.

Ordinary balanced cable is unsuitable for stereo as the two conductors can introduce cross-talk to each other. Ideally you need a cable with two separately screened circuits. I have such a cable that I use for stereo leads for Chapman Sticks, headphone extensions, etc. If you are interested then pm me with the length.

[quote name='Ant' post='918401' date='Aug 7 2010, 10:39 PM']I can't seem to find a stereo trs cable with right angled jacks, can anyone point me in right direction[/quote] What length?

[quote name='Bassnut62' post='914556' date='Aug 4 2010, 08:07 AM']This one appears to have a dot-marker there[/quote] I see no dot at Fret 21. and neither does my pre-EB.

Recently bought an Electro Harmonix POG from Daryl. Well packed and quickly posted. Very simple and straightforward transaction. Excellent comms and he also gave me some useful tips about where and how to use it. Thanks.

Probably "Move It" sometime during 1962 or 1963 played on a self-made bass through the family radiogram at a school dance. I was 16. Definitely pre-Beatles and very rebellious for those days.

[quote name='antti' post='907837' date='Jul 28 2010, 08:50 AM']If the customs fee (tax) is equal it should be something like 3-4 % of the whole price. Then they will charge VAT, which, I believe, is 15% at the moment in England. They will charge that from the price of the bass + shipping. So, if you buy this bass you can calculate something like this: Bass - 650 Shipping+ins. - 150 Tax - 32 VAT - 124,8 Total price 956,8 This may not be accurate. Depends on the price of shipping but it won't be too far from this. [/quote] VAT is 17.5% now going up to 20% next year.

Let the Wiki be your guide. Ther are many members who have trodden this path. [url="http://wiki.basschat.co.uk/info:buying:importing_gear"]http://wiki.basschat.co.uk/info:buying:importing_gear[/url]

Thanks for the suggestions. After much Googling I have concluded that black leather dye seems to the colourant of choice and I found a bottle of the recommended make on Ebay. Hopefully here tomorrow.

I've just finishing some remedial work on my CC DB - new bridge/new strings/resurface the finegerboard - and what a difference it makes. I now need to finish the fingerboard off properly as it is rosewood that was originally pained. Any recommendations for what I should use.

43 years ago I sold my then only bass. It was a decision that I have lived to regret all my life. If you have to sell then keep at least one bass.

[quote name='cameltoe' post='895627' date='Jul 15 2010, 02:17 PM']I'm hoping the Orange Terror bass will have 'that sound', and I already know it's got the headroom. Looks cool too.[/quote] Hmm. I put a TB500 against my AD200B and was so disappointed that I sold the TB again.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='895542' date='Jul 15 2010, 12:43 PM']Old valves were made better though.[/quote] Then buy one and fit it, preferably a Mullard.

In general valve pre-amps go on for years with no trouble. Over the past couple of years I've had several very old all-valve heads pass through my hands with their original pre-amp valves still performing perfectly.

As a casual observer of, and occasional participant in, this thread it strikes me that you are trying to "make a silk purse out of a sows ear" in that the LB is a nice toy but isn't really what you need. Back in the 60s, 30-watt bass amps were barely enough - I know because I had one - and it always driven into distortion just to be loud enough. Since then other instruments have got a lot louder which has just aggravated the problem and why 300/500 watt bass amps are now the norm, regardless of how loud you actually need them to be. If valve sound is what you want then perhaps a 100-watt, or even a 200-watt, all-valve head would have been a more appropriate choice. Good luck with your experiments.

[quote name='cameltoe' post='894984' date='Jul 14 2010, 07:24 PM']This thread is going on and on...... Would another option for added volume be to use another cab? As stated in the showoff thread I started, I bought the matching 2x12 cab to go with the LB. This cab is 4 ohms, apparently, but the amp has both 4 ohm and 8 ohm outputs. Does this mean I can use both the 4 ohm cab I already have, plus hook up an 8 ohm cab and run both for extra volume? Would this put too much stress on the amp? Go gentle with me, I'm new at this [/quote] No, no, no, no, no, no. Not designed for both outputs to be used at once. Once again you will screw up the output valve loading. It's one or the other, 4-ohms worth of speakers on the 4-ohm output or 8-ohms worth of speakers on the 8-ohm output.

[quote name='Prime_BASS' post='894533' date='Jul 14 2010, 10:51 AM']I'll be recieving a SUB very soon as I'm no millionaire and minimum wage for unde 21's is diabolical! Anyway I'll be upgrading it with various things, but I'm stock at the bridge replacement, the only thing I can think of (of the top of my head ) is a badass III bridg as it has 3 mounting screws and I won't have to do any drilling/screwing. However I would rather have a musicman bridge with the mute pads on it. So my question is how do I get one of those? I could buy a classic ray or a pre EB ray, and then try and sell it on. I've tried eBay and there is a 1980 something musicman bridge on there except it's missing the mute pads, so that's a no go, is there a way of ordering one from EBMM?[/quote] EBMM do not sell parts as a matter of policy. They only do a service exchange so if you have a dead pick-up you have to return the faulty one. Your best source is Ebay. Missing mute pads are not a problem, you can make them from old mouse mats. You just need to be sure that the springs and grub-screws are there.