obbm

I've been playing Stingray 5s for the past 12 years. I have dabbled with other makes but have found that the scale length, string spacing and neck profile really works for me. Even better with the Status Carbon-Fibre neck. The ex-OHM Shuker PJ5 has the same string spacing and a very similar profile to the SR5 and also feels just right. Last year I was considering a Sterling 5HS but really could not justify the outlay so I opted for a custom ACG headless Harlot 5HS with the same string spacing and similar neck profile. It's now on the radar, as in Alan has started showing pictures, so hopefully it will be with me before the SE Bash.

[quote name='silverfoxnik' post='954018' date='Sep 12 2010, 08:50 PM']After a bit of discussion with obbm, I have realised that this is actually the 4th SE Bash, so I have amended the thread title accordingly..Just a little technicality but these things still matter [/quote] Cheers Nick Not sure what I will bring yet. It might be my new PJB Cub if PJB and Bass Direct can get their fingers out. It's already 6 weeks late. It might be my new ACG Headless 5, if it's finished by then. It might be the Shuker PJ5. It might be an Orange AD200B with Epifani UL212. It might be PJB D200 with headphones - nice one for Jack's room. Otherwise it'll be the same old stuff, SR5 with Status neck, Lakland Duck Dunn PJ4, Godin fretless 5, etc. perhaps a few cables, who knows. Maybe nothing, it'll just be nice to see everyone again especially as I was incapacitated last year.

When I asked them about my DJ4 Lakland told me "The HE6C 1/2" is the correct D-tuner for your bass." I could find no-one who stocked them in the UK so I bought directly from Hipshot's web site.

I very much doubt that there is anything wrong with the original valves as at that age, they are hardly worn. The only way to try for a different sound is to experiment and that can get expensive. As a first step I would just look at replacing V1, the input valve as that is where all the work is done. The Fender Tone Stack is completely passive and allows bass and treble boost and mid cut. Flat Response is with Bass and Treble at about 9 O'Clock and Mid at 3 O'Clock. If you are lacking in treble then maybe you should also look elsewhere for the problem.

Hi Mike Welcome back.

If you order a Carbon-Fibre replacement neck for a P, J, Ray or Ray 5 from Status you can specify front, side or both LEDs. Quite expensive though. Recently heard that Simms had put their prices up to go-away values.

Having had my Status Ray 5 for the past 6 years I can thoroughly recommend this conbination. It never goes out of tune, has no dead spots, ultra-smooth neck, loads of sustain and rings out like a piano. It is my go anywhere, do anything bass and is always my first choice. Considering what it cost to buy a neck and have Rob Green fit it, I would think that's a very fair deal.

[quote name='Musicman20' post='931070' date='Aug 20 2010, 04:10 PM']I hate good guitarist who try to play the bass like a guitar thinking they are better than a 'mere bassist'. Cannot stand it...no feel, or rhythm.[/quote] Had one of those at the Jam in Aldershot last Monday. House band guitarist monopolised the bass for quite a while when there were real bass players waiting to have a play, but that's probably another thread.

Nick, bring it over and I'll do it for you.

[quote name='Grand Wazoo' post='931506' date='Aug 20 2010, 11:36 PM']Oh I see, [i]"said the blind man"[/i] he is a member who sells them or makes these cables, aaaaiighht? Thanks[/quote] As I said in my post there are many different variants of Speakon cables. The type you get in music shops are aimed at the PA market and typically use 1.00-sq.mm or 1.5-sq.mm cable, which is not enough. For bass you need 4-sq.mm, keeping the length to a minimum. I use a very flexible Klotz cable with 224 strands per conductor which gives a very low resistance. Most users go for 1-metre, or 1.5m for a large cabinet with connections at the bottom, however Clarky went for 0.5m. I recommend you have a read of my feedback threads for users opinions. If you want more info then pm me.

Back to the original post, there are Speakon cables and Speakon cables. All the comments about jack versus Speakon are valid however no-one has said anything about the wire in between. A Speakon to Speakon wired with 1.5-sq.mm. cable will be inferior to a jack to jack wired with 4-sq.mm. The resistance of the cable has a direct effect on the damping factor of the rig, i.e the amps ability to control the speaker close to it's resonant frequency. The higher the damping factor, the better the control. The contact resistance of the connectors is a part of this so the larger contact area of the Speakon helps. FYI. Jacks were designed for low voltage/current telephony in the 1920s. Speakons have been designed for the high voltage/current of modern power amplifiers.

[quote name='algmusic' post='930025' date='Aug 19 2010, 04:44 PM']Right, Bought my first valve amp, (Terror bass). I bought it second hand here and I've been told its was bought in December. It's great and I love it. It's a tube pre/with power amp. Q1: How long do the tubes last Q2: Should I carry spares? Where can I get them (live in Greenwich, but in the city a lot) Q3: Are they easy to change or do I take it to a shop Q4: any other tube advice to help them last long etc. I usually gig about 1-3 a week and I always carry a my sansamp as backup. I always put it on standby for about 5-15mins before and after the gig at least.[/quote] Q1. Years and years and years. Q2. Unlikely to ever need a spare. Watford valves sell them. Q3. Remove amp cover, twist and remove valve screen, pull out valve, plug in new valve, replace screen, refit cover. Done. very quick and easy. No adjustment necessary. Q4. Don't worry about it. Tube pre-amps are bullet proof, it's the higher power amps that need TLC.

Commander Cody and the Lost Planet Airmen - Truck Stop At The End Of The World.

[quote name='crez5150' post='927973' date='Aug 17 2010, 08:25 PM']Not sure if this is still a relevant thread but I am now looking after LD Products in the UK. Please PM me with any questions you have. Jay[/quote] Thanks Jay, but the requirement has gone away. Have "S" taken them over or have you got a new challenge in life?

If both items of equipmmnt have input fuses then they are protected. The fuse in the plug is only there to protect the cable. As long as the cable is rated for the total load and the plug fuse is correctly rated for the cable then everything should be fine.

I met Si a few times at Bashes, communicated by email and was I able to help him out on a number of occassions. I am just stunned by this tragic news. Always a great sense of humour, he will be sadly missed. Deepest sympathy and heartfelt condolences to his friends and relations

[quote name='Lfalex v1.1' post='924816' date='Aug 14 2010, 12:27 PM']I'm surprised that they haven't issued a Fatwa on Rob Green for making replacement Graphite necks and imposed sanctions against East, Bartolini, MEC, Seymour Duncan, et al for having the temerity to manufacture electronics/pick-ups... BTW, If I made Wah pedals, I would most certainly name one of mine "FatWah" and maybe "AutoFatWah" [/quote] Surely it would hve to be a "PhatWah".

[quote name='gafbass02' post='924594' date='Aug 14 2010, 01:42 AM']I had a massive fall out with BP a few years ago.[/quote] +1 ... and I don't think I've posted there since. I argued that they were missing a trick by not using the Forum to gauge genuine customer feedback but unfortunately the management has an attitude of "don't confuse us with the facts our minds are made up". I suggested that they should try and understand why their customers would want to modify their basses. Went down like the proverbial lead balloon. Also I am still the owner of a heavily modded SR5 - the ultimate sin. Last year I was seriously considering a Sterling 5 but in the end decided to place my order with ACG for a truly custom bass which I know will be a better instrument.

This is a good place to start. [url="http://www.fender.com/support/diagrams/pdf_temp1/basses/0190209C/SD0190209CPg2.pdf"]http://www.fender.com/support/diagrams/pdf...0190209CPg2.pdf[/url] The concentric pots should be: centre spindle/bottom pot/250K outer spindle/upper pot/500K

[quote name='umph' post='920559' date='Aug 10 2010, 12:28 PM']Changing pots wont effect the tone unless you go for higher or lower impedence[/quote] Pots have no inductance or capacitance only resistance, so no impedance, but you knew that didn't you.

[quote name='fryer' post='918678' date='Aug 8 2010, 12:31 PM']Hi, I would like some help with choosing an Amp. I have a Epifani UL 310, which is fine with my Shuttle 6 for practice. The 310 could provide 750w at its 5.3 ohms. I need more power so was thinking of geting another UL 310. But what could I use to power 2 cabs at 5.3 ohms each ? Richard[/quote] I used to use a QSC PLX1602 in 1200-watt bridged mode to drive my UL310, then a UL502 and now its an MB F1. Any amp that has a decent power output into 4-ohms will be fine. The UL310 tends to open up the harder you drive it. As for two of them, been there done that, not necessary. Why would you want to do it apart from image. UL310 is loud. Any dual power amp head with one cab on each power stage. I used an Epi UL-902 and even tried an Ashdown LG1000. Alternatively any head that will work reliably into 2-ohms will be fine.

Glad it worked out for you in the end Colin.

Ordinary balanced cable is unsuitable for stereo as the two conductors can introduce cross-talk to each other. Ideally you need a cable with two separately screened circuits. I have such a cable that I use for stereo leads for Chapman Sticks, headphone extensions, etc. If you are interested then pm me with the length.

[quote name='Ant' post='918401' date='Aug 7 2010, 10:39 PM']I can't seem to find a stereo trs cable with right angled jacks, can anyone point me in right direction[/quote] What length?