Ou7shined

Because it bleeds acid when you cut it.

I guess Jon's new fretless project didn't go as planned.

I think some people are over analysing the concept of a sig bass. Basically it's a convenient name for a line of endorsed custom jobs normally based on a standard line from a know brand. That's all. What ever inferences drawn beyond that about wannabees is up to the individual. The problem for me (if there was one) arises when not only is it an endorsed product but it becomes free advertising (in the form of physical signatures, logos etc ) for an artist who may or may not even play one and I find that kind of promotion a bit icky and most importantly it can spoil the look of a bass too. Those of us posting about our own signature models were doing so with tongue in cheek. The reason I have my name and logo on my bass is because I built it. Custom made one off basses built to a spec are equally as justified. Yet because this doesn't fit with the criteria mentioned above can't strictly be sig models. But who gives? And while I'm at it, Fender, Gibson, Shuker, Ernie Ball etc. are simply brand names which happen to be people's names too, not signature lines.

^ that is quite tasty looking.

Of course you know that makes us "gallery brothers". Or should that be "gal pals"? The purple one was sold on here not too long ago. I don't know who got it though. And I think we know who got the black and the white ones.

I don't have an official MM case for mine but given that a 'ray 4 has a 3+1 headstock I'd say no. I just go check if one will fit my custom made MM case. edit : It fits mine but then it does have a bit of extra "head" room. The body fits in surprisingly well - it wiggles about though.

Ha ha I never realised this but.... your bass is directly above mine in Jon's gallery.

Hey that's actually a nice design - suits it. Did Jon do it or was it a homebrew?

[quote name='OldGit' post='866474' date='Jun 13 2010, 09:29 PM']Got my own Sig basses One actually has my initials on. Sadly though it look very much like the Cardiff parking scheme logo [/quote] Pics or it didn't happen Si.

I've got a Line 6 UX2 POD Studio coming next week so the sound clips are more imminent.

[quote name='steve-soar' post='866339' date='Jun 13 2010, 08:07 PM']Very nice. Copper foil is a bugger for cutting your fingers.[/quote] Cheers I do it to every bass I own regardless of whether it needs it or not. Ain't it just - and usually on the tip of a fretting finger.

Actually it just dawned on me... I do own a signature model.... yeah you guessed it the Pingray. [attachment=52170:pingray060.jpg]

Whom. :blush:

Ah an [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=91486"]Ibanza[/url]. Nah, excellent call. You're gonna have to learn For Who the Bell Tolls + all the widely bits though.

[quote name='Clarky' post='866072' date='Jun 13 2010, 03:51 PM']Thanks gents. So I am clear, would P800 sandpaper remove the worst then, do you reckon? And then follow up with some Farecla car-type polish? And I would be doing this by hand, as I assume that what you meant by handjob [/quote] You see that thar Pingray in my sig? That's how I did mine. I'm lucky enough to have tons of P80-1500 at my disposal but for this job 800+ is a good middle ground - if you think you're not making much progress maybe even 500 may be what's needed. A good tip though is that say you start out with 800 and look after tha paper after a few minutes of rubbing it loses it coarseness so goes up in grade. I keep all my used sandpapers and only use the number as a gauge - I feel it to tell how course it is. A broken in sheet of 800 is as good as a fresh 1000 which is perfect for finishing before buffing. Buffing is boooooooring I suggest a wee powered buffer you get them for about a tenner from Argos and sh*t like that. Also if it has a scratch plate you have a perfect test bed under there for experimenting. I'm presuming you have a clear finish over paint which gives you that little bit extra headroom for rubbing back.

[quote name='Clarky' post='866063' date='Jun 13 2010, 03:43 PM']Here's pics of the front and rear scratches to give you an idea of what I mean [attachment=52120:alembic06.jpg][attachment=52121:alembic10.jpg][/quote] Sandpaper.

[quote name='tino' post='866066' date='Jun 13 2010, 03:45 PM']...in this case a hand job aint gonna cut it [/quote] Although you might not care about it afterwards.

T-cut may be a little savage. It not only contains abrasives but it has a high ammonia content which eats paint. I use a similar but more gentle product scabbed from my local Renault dealer (where my g/f works) called Farecla. You get different grades but I like to do "roughing up" with G-3 then finishing with G-10. If all you have is a slight haze either of these will do the trick for you. If you have actual scratches that you can feel with your finger nail then you may have to flatten it first with paper of P800 and over. If you go around to your nearest car body-shop and do your best puppy dog eyes you might be able to pick up some. If t-cut is your only choice, you could try leaving it out for some of the ammonia to evaporate - you'll obviously have to re-hydrate it. I've not tried this I'm just thinking out loud.

[quote name='Al Heeley' post='865956' date='Jun 13 2010, 02:16 PM']not sarcastic at all, succinct and to the point. Incidentally anyone here with bass necks sitting under their beds for 2 years, please get them out and sell them to me![/quote] I think geoffbyrne has a couple of RW necks up for grabs.

It's amazing how a new bass can inspire you to play more and even differently for that matter.

Fralins are to date my favourite custom Jazz pups (got them in my Holey Head Jazz) and I looked at their '51 P offerings too (especially the split) but plumped for the Lollar. I'd still love to try one, although I doubt I'll get the chance with a brace of SDs in my parts box already. Yeah I found the Antiquity to be the complete antithesis of hot.

Me neither, although tastefully done there's nothing wrong with them - unlike the Sting sig or the new Mark King that has his name practically in neon lights.