Ou7shined

[quote name='lowdown' post='1103438' date='Jan 26 2011, 12:05 PM']A week is a very long time in the business of Bass. There will be many Bass chatters who last week purchased a five/six or 92 string. They would then start a post about that particular Bass being the best Bass they have ever played [by a country mile]. A few days later it will be in the 'For sale section' " As much as i have tried - i just can not get on with a fiver or whatever, i am a four stringer really" Thats what makes this place a priceless hang out... Garry[/quote] So true And it's not exclusive to 5 strings. Pedals, strings, pickups, pre-amps etc. they're all the danglies for 5 minutes until the ghost in the machine tells us that there is a better one out there that will make us play better.

It's often very easy to kill pedals by using the wrong psu or the right psu but the wrong polarity. Did you sell it with it's dedicated psu or did the buyer use his own?

I won't comment on CV necks per se because I've never owned one but reading the depositions from past and present owners in this thread you would believe that CV fret wear doesn't exist. Which is an affront to logic. [b]For the sake of balance,[/b] I would like to ask those who in their own personal experience have not seen any wear on a CV neck, have you worn out the frets on any other make of bass in the same time scale? Couldn't it just be that you are gentle/careful players? I have a very percussive fingering style and have subsequently done in a fret or two on differing makes of neck in my time and because of that I stay clear of SS strings because they are undoubtedly the worst culprit (lucky for me I don't even like the sound of them anymore ). I wouldn't want to make distinctions between makes of neck but to me it makes perfect sense that someone who is prone to wear out frets faster would undoubtedly blow holes in vintage style frets faster than they would their jumbo counterparts. I think it only becomes an issue if the alloy used in the frets is of an inferior quality and wear out quickly through normal usage, then we'd really have something to complain about.

I suppose it would depend on your playing style too - slapping and popping is not as fret friendly as just plucking or fingering.

It's a bit of a black art but ultimately it's less to do with earthing and more down to capacitance and how your body becomes part of the circuit - everything has to be "earthed" in order to be connected to "the circuit". I'm sure String Theory has something to do with it too.

That's a toughy without actually being able to test the thing. It could be anything from a loose wire to being totally goosed. Open it up an have look to see if anything looks loose or scorched.

It's beyond me how Hagstroms achieve the prices I've just seen. I have a body of one waiting for me to complete a refin on and it is honestly the closet thing to the proverbial plank (quite literally) I have ever seen. Also the 'tronics are shockingly poor and the pups are pish. Beyond retro styling pose factor I fail to see the attraction.

To be fair while they can be good for taking up the slack in oversized holes, matchsticks and cocktail sticks etc are too weak and not tight enough grained to be used as plugs to screw into when used with standard wood glue. Things like Kebab skewers which are made from hard woods (or sometimes bamboo) are ok but best of all are dowels. I have used a laminate of cocktail sticks and superglue (which impregnates the wood then solidifies) to create a dowel but although it was successfully it still felt like a bit of a bodge.

[quote name='mart' post='1100920' date='Jan 24 2011, 03:28 PM']Well, of course, my argument is based in theory, and we all know how close theory is to practice Seriously though, I'd be interested to see the details of a bass that has had the strap button moved up, and balances in a more upright position as a result. Ideally, I'd like a picture of the shape of the bass, with the strap buttons marked on it, and the centre of gravity.[/quote] For a good example click on the Pingray in my sig. Here I think is the only pic I think I have with it being worn front on (by BC's very own Greeneking) [attachment=69872:Moffat_Peter_low.jpg] You can see that even though the button has been raised, when it is at rest it still becomes the most "westward" point of the bass thus tilting the neck up a bit. ( I have pics of me playing it but it wouldn't give a very fair representation of how it sits naturally as I have a tendency to wear the bass like this....[attachment=69874:Rich.jpg] <- embarrassing smug look )

[quote name='mart' post='1100821' date='Jan 24 2011, 02:21 PM']Actually, no, it may do precisely the opposite. Yep, I really did mean that. Moving the strap button up the bass may make the neck sit at a lower angle. So it may cause neck-dive where there was none before. Yes, I know that sounds bizarre, so let me try to explain. Are you sitting comfortably? This may take a while. Perhaps first I should say that I play a Thumb, which has taught me a loooooot about neckdive and general balance issues, and I've discussed this at extraordinary length on the Warwick forum, and with a couple of engineers and physics graduates. The conclusion I reached is that the key thing is the horizontal spacing between the centre of gravity and the strap buttons. When the horizontal distance from the C of G to both strap buttons is the same, the bass will be perfectly balanced. So what does that mean about moving strap buttons? Put your bass at your ideal playing angle. If the neck is at much of an angle above the horizontal then by moving the strap button up the body you have effectively moved it to the right, i.e., away from the centre of gravity. This means the bass will pull down more on the top strap button (the one nearer to the C of G) pulling the neck downwards. On the other hand, if your preferred playing position has the neck horizontal, then moving the strap button up the bass will move it towards the C of G. That will put more weight on the back part of the strap, so will pull the neck up. In this case moving the strap button would raise the neck angle. So the precise outcome depends on 1) what angle you like to play at, and 2) what shape your bass is. And yes, you can use this to work out where to put the bottom strap button to get the best balance, as long as you know where the centre of gravity of your bass is. The OP's bass has a fairly flat bottom, so any angle above the horizontal will tend to move the bottom button away from the C of G, making the neck dive more than it would. To get back to the original question: I wouldn't move the button unless you are sure you know how this will change the balance of the bass![/quote] And yet my headstocks point to the stars.

It has to be wood n glue.

I often offset the rear button on my builds with no adverse effects at all, in fact to the contrary there are 2 major benefits. Firstly it raises the angle that the neck sits at (great if you like to wear your bass a little low) and secondly if you rest your bass up against your amp or a wall it won't fall over (works best on Jazzes).

The difference is in possessing the skills to put that knowledge to good use.

I can say with the utmost certainty that the 4 string versions are different in that the the G&L is quite a bit thinner. I'm fairly certain the difference between the 5er's pups is the same.

Just FYI, it's good practice to put the end of your string down inside the hole in the centre of you tuner before you start tightening it up - it keeps it all tidy and locked in place. Are the screws on the back of the headstock that hold your A tuner down all ok?

Let's have a look at the bridge end now.