apa

Thats realy cool and marvin beat me to it lol (Honest) where did you get it from KiOgon? A

Good point on the fretless cross over and yep you try not to look at the dots lol. You do the same as me then on the intonation A

Not a how to but a how do? Just out of curiosity I was wondering how you all intonate your fretless to aline to the dots? I do mine so that if I finger just before the dot the string is actually 'fretted' on the dot if you know what I mean To my mind if you finger over the dot the note will be a little forward of the dot due to the thickness of your finger. Whats your prefered? and whats the 'correct' way? No rights or wrongs in all this unless you want to take into acount the microscopic difference in scale length and hence dot positions that these two methods make A

Yep, buy another rack and the clock is set to zero ago Its all BC's fault though. I came here with 2 18 months ago and now have 10 Im already thinking of another build. And if you want another excuse 7 is an odd number 8 feels much better, or 10 or 12 etc etc etc A

Lol Ive got thumpers in a P and 64's in a J and for the money you cant beat them. But the icing is definetly the packaging. Hand written ID and red paper in a nice little box. All very personal. Theres lovely now A

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1320084704' post='1422122'] That neck is definitely 100% Encore. [/quote] Oooooh its a wolf in sheeps clothing and no mistake. Wheres me cheque book A

[quote name='CBbass' timestamp='1320068508' post='1421805'] That fretless stingray looks amazing! [/quote] This one? (Pre black hardwear) [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/132409-rosie/page__fromsearch__1"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/132409-rosie/page__fromsearch__1[/url] and thanks, Im feelin the love A

As far as I can see and read its a no name generic bitsa with a decal slapped on it! Looks nice though lol A

[quote name='Len_derby' timestamp='1319996510' post='1421037'] I was down in Glasto' last Thursday. It rained all day and I saw nothing half as beautiful as that. [/quote] You should have popped in for a cuppa after your trudge up the Tor Everyone is dressed up for Halloween at the moment. In other words exactly the same as every other day A

Ha! cheers gary and to think I only had 2 when I joined here about 1 year ago A

Technically this went for £70 so thats a 16.7% increase on my pension fund in 9 months. Alls looking good A

[quote name='Doctor J' timestamp='1319843548' post='1419381'] That is sweet. Good job. [/quote] Thank you kindly Doctor J You saw it here first A

[quote name='Monckyman' timestamp='1319840224' post='1419331'] Aah crap. I want one [/quote] Lol Start saving then MM. Christmas is coming, have you been a good boy? A

So.............. A motley crew? An eclectic mix? A concise collection? WTF? All the gear and no idea? A delectable hareem? So when you going to buy a real one? How much for your women? Nice rug? So when you going to learn how to play them? All in order as per signature below. A

[quote name='Monckyman' timestamp='1319803150' post='1418756'] How are you finding the J retro with the Wizards? [/quote] All I can say is BALLS!! and versatile ones at that . Ive got an Audere pre in my VM Jazz and thought that was good until I got to grips with the J Retro. I thought it was a bit too complicated at first but once you pare down what you need then its great. Difficult to split the pups and pre effects but I love the sound. Its still got that burp but it goes real deep to. Such a wide range. The mid is a nice subtle and variable tool. Much better than a standard mid. Very very versatile. The power is obviouse too. Thourghly recommend them both. BTW Im even more chuffed since its that 'scratchy' one that was on sale here a while ago. I think it was dropped in the post office because I cant for the life of me make it scratch A

[quote name='rapscallion' timestamp='1319801419' post='1418724'] Is that just a veneer applied to a regular scratchplate? If so its an awesome effect! [/quote] Nope its a piece of standard 3.5mm ply skimmed down to 2mm then the veneer glued on. I used a squier plate as a template but cut the plate 'V' and neck slot to suit. Bound it in black/white/black veneer strip. Its stuck on with very strong double sided tape. A

Thanks again all. Very useful stuff coming through........... This is the latest one. Pics dont show the 'crazing/peeling' well. Well they wouldnt, Im showing it off, so Ill try and take a fw more pics to show the prob. [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/158865-annie-jazz-bitsa-deluxe/page__fromsearch__1"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/158865-annie-jazz-bitsa-deluxe/page__fromsearch__1[/url] cheers A

Cheers Ace This is the second one with a wooden scratchplate. The other was a black stingray clone with a Rosewood plate. A

lol All was going well until I got to that headstock shape. I see what he was doing but doesnt work. Otherwise very nice. Do they do an away strip? A

Bass No10 (GULP!!) CH Neck Darkened Rosewood Fingerboard, Generic Body, J-Retro 01 Preamp, Wizard 64's, Generic Hardware, Through body strings, GHS Bright Flats, Metallic British Racing Green, hand made Birdseye Maple scratch plate with B/W/B binding. Always wanted a green one so thought I would knock one up and I love BRG I like the sound to That J-Retro is very versatile. Wasnt aiming for a Jaco thing, just a nice fretless J to complete the collection Im actually quit pleased with the result! A

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1319484930' post='1414816'] They were popular... .... but I believe the hysteria has died down now and many are getting parted out along with their new upgrades. In fact I've actually seen some just being described as "Fender copies" as the SR name was hindering the chance to make a profit - ie £40 for a body that came off a £60 bass. [b]This one appears to be all original. Wouldn't it be funny if it was more desirable because of this[/b]. [/quote] Ha! Well my all white one is still tucked away all original as my pension. Ill be watching this one with interest A

[quote name='Alfie' timestamp='1319326136' post='1412831'] Keep at it, I'm sure even Leo Fender made mistakes when he was starting out (ahem *jazz bass* ahem) [/quote] Erm as a matter of fact the latest one IS a Jazz . Considering Im doing all this from a kitchen table I dont think Im doing a bad job Unfortunatly my 'spray booth' is the landing outside my flat so respraying 3 bass bodies all at once may upset the other residents a bit much. Im at the top and all those gasses are heavier than air lol. Its a des res too! [quote name='LawrenceH' timestamp='1319326984' post='1412839'] Hmm weird, did that use a sanding sealer or grain filler that could have been acrylic or similar? If not then it may be something already in the wood. I have used the clear plastikote as a repair spray on a poly-finished Fender that had a few chips in, including one down to the wood. It didn't cause any problems there but the total area was pretty small. [/quote] I did use a genetic sanding sealer from one of our pattern makers. And I will confess that it was my first go and may have been a bit keen to get the paint on so it may be down to over thick layers. (Its all coming out now lol) A

I see .................. Well I think Ill live with them a bit longer and see. Perhaps Ill call it 'relicing' . BTW Lawrance the worst case was done with all Plastikote paints since its black. Interesting! Perhaps this thread should be pinned for 'How NOT to spray a bass' Back to skool for me then!! Thanks all A

Thanks all I did wonder about the mixing of brands (schoolboy error No1) and Im carefull about how close to hold the can etc. What gets me is that the bodies can sit there for weeks looking peachy but as soon as I buff it up the peel appears!! Oh and no its not Rustins its 'Plasti-kote' as you find in B&Q etc. The question now is: Can I save the finish without having to start again? A

Ive sprayed 3 bodies now and Im getting the same problem with them all! Same process with each: 1. Sand back 2. Halfords grey undercoat (or generic sanding sealer for the nat finish one) x 3 (1 per day) 3. Sand back 4. Halfords filler spray for one body x 2 (1 per day) 5. Sand back 6. Halfords car spray top coats x 4 (1 per day) 7. Sand back with wet and dry 8. Plasti-kote Clear Super x 4 (1 per day) 9. Sand back with wet and dry 10. Sand back with wet and dry then Hafords T-Cut 11. Buff In all these processes I have used wet and dry varying between 180 grade to 2500 grade. Spray coats have been 2 passes per coat and left for a week before next stage. In the case of the final clear coat they were left for 2 weeks before sanding and T cutting. All looks good and the basses were assembled looking shiney and new. Then after a week the orange peel starts!! Its 'crazing'. Since they sit there for a couple of weeks with no ill effect and it only starts after the final buff could the T cut be reacting? And what can I do about it? Is there a way back without a respray?? Am I commiting a schoolboy error here? cheers A