Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

SignsOfDelirium_bassist

Member
  • Posts

    189
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by SignsOfDelirium_bassist

  1. Looking for trades at all? I'd love a stingray, but got no money for one, and I doubt I can afford to spring for this either...But I've got a couple of basses I'd be happy to trade for it. 5/6 string interest you at all?
  2. I'd like it if more shops had flats-strung basses in stock, but I can see why they don't bother. Pretty much every reason has already been listed, so I won't bother going into it The only thing that really gets me is when they string a semi-hollow bass with rounds! I've never played a semi-hollow in a shop and really liked the tone, apart from one s/h one. Wanna take a guess at why it sounded so much better? Bingo, it had flats on it. I don't think I've ever tried a semi-hollow with flats and not loved it! It's a small wonder that I haven't gotten one already
  3. I think you'll find that no matter what you do that neck 'bucker will always sound thunderous and un-defined. I think it's the pup placement more than anything. That said I have played a couple of very nice SG basses, the perfect tone for me was both pups, mostly bridge with about half on the neck volume just to give it that added oompf! +1 for the darkstar idea! Only ever heard great things about those pickups, wanted one for ages!
  4. Hmm, over a month since I posted this? well bugger me, didn't think it was that long ago! Anywho, so I've got the parts now, but a couple of things are bugging me, I can find plenty of diagrams with the S1 switch, but none with the push/pull pot. I'd assume that you could just wire the 6 extra tabs on the pot like you would the switch, but I'm not 100% sure about this. Also, on every diagram I've seen, you always need to solder directly onto the bottom of the pot, but on the push/pull, there's no room! The bottom of the pot is taken up by the big square thing with the 6 tabs on it. Is it ok to solder onto the side of the pot instead? I'm guessing this is just for earthing issues, in which case I don't see why it wouldn't be ok, but again I just want to make sure Thanks again and sorry for being a moron about this stuff, I'll learn eventually haha.
  5. The new squiers do seem to be pretty darn good, mine is no different. But I'll say what I always say to people who want a cheap good bass, look for a old ibanez, I got a 1980 Roadstar (Roadster?) fretless for under 200, it's a bit beaten up though, and it's fantastic! Could do with a proper set up though...
  6. Looks almost identical to the Fender P HMT bass I almost bought when I was looking for a fretless, I regret not getting that, it had fretlines, my Ibanez doesn't
  7. It's a shame you might want to think about this...But the MIM will probably have better resale value. A modded bass is much more personal than a standard one, although if you keep the original parts you can just sell it on after you revert it to it's original state...Wish I hadn't lost the pups that came in my VMJ That said, it IS more personal! I love my VMJ that I modded, I'm still in the process of modding it, just got the electronics to do now, then it's all sorted Unless I decide to get a neck that is
  8. I'd never thought of the amp issue before, but I guess I'd either want 2 amps (A man can dream!) or perhaps something like the Markbass LMK, something I've been drooling over for a while now, with 2 channels. If I had the knowhow I'd build myself one, one with a stereo jack so I can just build myself a little stomp box to switch between the guitar and bass with a pedal...Hmm, I'm starting to like this idea more and more now
  9. I can't play guitar for toffee, but I've always wanted a 4&12 doubleneck...Both guitarists in my band are pretty good at the fiddly piddly crap, so I figure I could just play some lovely sounding chords on a 12string to back them up while they go nuts
  10. I've been thinking about getting a warmoth neck for a while, as much as I like the neck on my VMJ, the blocks look a little bit shoddy to me, and I think there's something wrong with the trussrod (There's bugger all resistance when you try to turn it). I was thinking about getting a tele bass maple/maple neck but with 1 1/2" nut and the slim back contour...will this make it the same dimensions as a jazz neck? I just really love the look of the Tele bass headstocks
  11. Any chance you'd be interested in a trade for a bass? plus some money your way perhaps?
  12. Well, I'd say it's worth a look around the ibanez collectors forum and ebay to see if you can get an old ibby. I got an 80s fretless for £180 and it sounds bloomin fantastic! Shame I can't get to grips with it still, but I shall persevere! Admittedly mine's a little beat up, but I've seen ones in pretty good condition go for under 300, definitely worth a look in any case!
  13. Wow, that is a seriously wonderful looking bass! Sure it sounds killer too Shame about my lack of funds really, otherwise I'd have this off you in a flash!
  14. Hmm, ok so I've just re-read all the earlier posts, and I'm kinda confused again I know it's a lot to ask, but is there any chance someone could draw me a diagram, or explain to me, how I would wire this all up? The earlier diagrams for the S1 don't seem to be for the push/pull pots, don't I need to wire them in a certain way for them to work like an S1 switch? If not, then how do I make the second (bridge) vol work as a in/out of phase switch, considering I'm going to be using the same type of pot as the first? Also, don't I have to ground each pot? Perhaps I'm just being extremely thick here, but I'm completely baffled! Just want to make sure I can do all this with 2 push/pull pots (2 of these: [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fender-Tone-Volume-Push-Pull-250K-Pot-CTS-Split-Shaft-/140499251084?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item20b6686f8c"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fender-Tone-Volume-P...=item20b6686f8c[/url] ), a 250k pot for the tone, a 0.047uF cap, and a switchcraft jack. Cheers! Jack.
  15. I've played a couple of these, one was horrible, one was simply amasing! The first one was in a shop, strung with rounds, sounded really quite bad in my opinion. no mater what settings I had, where I played, it always just sounded wrong to me...Then I had the joy of playing a friends one, strung with flats (Chromes I believe), intonation/neck all properly sorted (the shop one was aweful! How they thought they'd sell it in that condition is beyond me!) and it was lovely to play! Really seemed to change the way the bass felt, although the different amp may well have had something to do with it I guess...I've not played one on a strap, so I dunno about neck dive issues really, al I know is sitting down with it on my knee was kinda uncomfy, given the large body... I definitely want one though! I reckon you should string it with flats, give it a go just incase You may end up with a whole new bass, one you really enjoy!
  16. Yea the first pot would be series/parallel, but the second is gunna be the phase switching. Kinda worried that perhaps if I set this all up, I won't be able to have series + out of phase? if making it series cuts out the second vol pot...
  17. Found these on ebay, will they work? doesn't seem to be much of a description on the sale. Will two of these do the job? Plus of course the .047uF cap and another 250k pot for the tone [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fender-Tone-Volume-Push-Pull-250K-Pot-CTS-Split-Shaft-/140499251084?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item20b6686f8c"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fender-Tone-Volume-P...=item20b6686f8c[/url] Cheers! Jack.
  18. Wow, couldn't have asked for something better, thanks a lot! I'm eagerly awaiting the first time I pick up my bass once I've done these mods
  19. It could be done I guess, but I'd say you'd need a short scale bass, it worked for the old Fender Bass6's after all...I think you'd have to try and find the bridges they used on those, I've no idea where you'd find them though, don't think they've made that model for a very long time! Although Warmoth make them, so it must be possible to get the parts Basically, my advice is research the Fender Bass6 and try to emulate that. Seems to be the only 6 string bass with a normal width neck that I can find
  20. I'm gunna be buying new knobs anyway, right now I've got the chrome ones that come with the VMJ, I want the more authentic looking black ones Only just dawned on me that they'll probably say on the sale if they're split or solid So the only question remains is...Anyone know where I can get an out of phase switch (Is it just another 2-way switch? But wired in a certain way?)? And of course, a diagram telling me what the hell to do with it would be pretty handy
  21. Huh, I was under the impression that when you switched it into series mode it just made the pulled knob (Ooh eer ) into a sort of master volume? Making the second volume do nothing...Is there a way to wire a phase switch in there as well? Any chance of a diagram/source for the switch? I've been tempted to try out the whole phasing thing for a while Guess it means i'll have to either buy a plate that's got the S1 switch hole in, or make a new hole myself...I'll probably buy a new plate, somehow mines gotten a bit dented! Thanks Ikay an Jimbob! I shall get round to ordering everything as soon as I know what I need for this phasing thing Oh, also, do I want split or solid shaft for the standard jazz knobs? Or do they make the knobs for both kinds? What value cap do I want? I thought all the orange drop caps would be the same value, looked them up on ebay only to find out there's loads! I'm guessing 0.47uF right? Seems to be the most common one used from what I've seen... Cheers again! Jack.
  22. Right, so here's the deal...I'm loving the sound of my jazz bass, especially with both pups on full, but I'm also starting to love the sound of a P bass. I don't really want to spend loads on doing up the cheap £50 P bass I've got, I'm saving that for practicing refinishing on So I figure the best think to do would be to change the electronics (Something I've been meaning to do for ages) to CTS pots, people seem to prefer them when it comes to resale value. I've heard whispers that I could wire a push/pull pot so when I pull it up, it'll act as master volume with both pickups in series, or parallel, whichever a P bass is wired like! I was hoping the good people here would be so kind as to help me find the parts I'd need, and more importantly, supply me with a good diagram I can follow Just to make sure I've got the right end of the stick here...From what I've heard doing this will mean when I pull the pot up, it'll make my bass sound more like a P, but with a touch more definition? Given the bridge pup placement an all? I hope this is the case, as the only thing that stopped me buying a P bass is the lack of definition you cna get with a Jazz Well, that and the chunky necks...for some reason I could never get on with them, despite finding my 6 string Ibby quite comfortable! Anywho, cheers! Jack.
  23. Damn, well that's my annual quota for good ideas blown...it's not even febuary yet!
  24. I'm loving the idea of these, there's way more combinations and sounds than I would ever even think of using, but if I can get just 2 or 3 sounds that I like, even if it's possible to get them on other basses, then I'd say it's worth it. I've wanted to experiment with out of phase sound for a little while, and this bass would be a great way to just experiment with your sound Provided you can run it passive, I'm definitely gunna start saving up for one of these! I'll probably get one anyway, but if I can quickly flick it to passive, just incase a battery dies mid-gig, then it sounds damn near perfect!
×
×
  • Create New...