deepbass5

There are a lot of threads on here covering this so have a search around, we have all been in that zone. I held out a long time and used an octave pedal to cover numbers with 5 strings on and as others have stated on here going up the octave is not an option as it upsets the flow. Try a load out in the shops to get an idea what neck profile suits you best. Look at 5 string basses as a different instrument to a 4 string. A lot of manufacturers think they can shove out a bass with an extra string on it. My view is there are good five strings and un playable five strings. Neck profile and string spacing suddenly becomes very critical to whether you persevere. Many companies narrow both ends Nut and Bridge. I prefer 19-20mm at the bridge as this helped me cross over from my 4 string. Try some expensive models even if you cannot afford them when you find one you feel comfortable with, take a tape measure and take notes check out the spec and search for a similar spec in models you can afford, then compare them. The last important thing is practise, put away the 4 and use just the 5. use the B string as a thumb rest for the first few months; you will soon be skipping around on the B for fills etc.

Still have the SM58 i bought the wife in 1979 our guitarist still uses it every gig, the Drummer also has his own for voacals, the wife has moved on the the Beta 58 which she loves with even better proximity effect and warmth, also have a Radio Beta 58 which are great but only as good as the cabled one when the battery is new.

anyone able to compare this with the GK MB500 fusion

Just sold Robin my Schack 5, my son was horrified I let a stranger walk out the house with my bass for just 20% deposit on a sale or return basis. I said its cool he's a Bass player. 5 days later Good to his word the rest of the money arrives in my Bank account. Robin is OK and true to his word, an honest guy.

Bill, Alex can the situation arrise where one band members gear or the PA is out of phase with your Rig i.e. sucking not blowing so worth the old battery test on the speaker cab. cancelling your volume at a point on the stage. ??

I'll Second vandamme cables, excellent quality. Check them out at http://www.bluearan.co.uk, better still take up jake's offer.

Worth taking note of Bill's past threads on here Sounds like you are driving the pre or power amp into distortion, which ultimately is going to be bad for the speaker, clipping/square waving the signal. Most single 10" combos are not capable of much more than private practice and small combo low volume gigs(jazz,folk). I have mentioned before, I once bought the Ampeg B1 combo 150w into a 1 x 12" lovely bit of kit sounded great but was limited to a specific music level, room - audience size. I was trying to do function band gigs up to civic hall sizes yet it could not hold its own at loud 4 piece practises. It took me too long to admit to myself this was the wrong kit for the job. I now fully appreciate what head room really means and cone surface area required to compete with other instruments in a band and deliver my bass parts to the audience. Try rolling off some bass and using the mids to carry your sound, it may not be the tone you want but Bass is amp hungry and this trick may get you through a gig or two. I also got me a Peavey 15" +2x8" cab for larger gigs and this cab enabled the ampeg to cope at larger gigs. Good luck

I did manage to pick up both my streamer and shucker for a grand second hand they do come up, but the Lakland and Yamahas are a good safe bet for good string spacing and thinner front to back than the warwick so easier to play up the neck.

Streamer stage 1 are wide necks the newer stage II are standard spacing, several models did come as optional spec in broard neck. the streamer LX 5&6 the Thumb 5&6 were available

I think you basically have it, I use the B as a rest and move to using the E as a rest when playing higher strings but ensure my thumb nail is also muting the B. on pieces that require quick movement over the EADG I have a fairly good left hand to cover muting on this stuff as Lowreg above.

Just checked mine for your reference Warwick streamer stage 1 20mm string spacing at bridge and 47 at nut [attachment=95785:warwick2.JPG] Shack unique 5 at Bridge 20mm-19mm-18.5mm-18.5mm but 45mm at nut [attachment=95786:P1010013.JPG] [attachment=95789:Schackhead.JPG] Shuker 5 18.5mm all stringsat Bridge but 47mm at nut [attachment=95787:shuker7.JPG] [attachment=95790:IMG_0286.jpg]

That's sweet Less is more again, letting the funk breathe. Great live sound. thanks for the post.

My Bubinga Schack comes in at 11lb+. and i have read that on the wood density scale which indicates whether a wood floats or sinks in water. Less than 1.0 it will float, it's listed at 0.88 I Have re checked this figure . but the hardware would tip it over the edge so dont go back for it. Worth the pain though [attachment=95752:Schackback.JPG]

Just want to let you guys know about a company that supplies grub screws. www.Modelfixings.com in Nottingham My issue was I found that one saddle on my Schack bridge had a damaged thread and the saddle would not sit at the height I wanted. This was due to the stock grub screw being too short and when fully adjusted was only held by the last couple of threads. These I believe got damaged by the bass falling over in its case face down. So the highest saddle gets the full wack. Anyway I have found these 8mm stainless steel M3 screws and now all my saddles are adjusted and the grub screws occupy the full thread. cost just £5 pounds for fifteen and an M3 key This picture is before replacement [attachment=95726:Schackbridge.JPG]

[quote name='sk8' timestamp='1324414985' post='1474067'] I was just going to use my fuzz tbh [/quote] Probably work just as well, think sometimes we try too hard

That is quite usual, most manufacturers just stick the bare wire under the bridge, even my schack and Shuker were the same. I have even had to rub the black painted bridges back to brass to get a ground. what I do is make sure the wire is clean and I bend it over and solder the loop this creates a larger surface area and the solder also gives it some depth, I then re position it away from the original indentation having cleaned the underside of the bridge, bolt it back down.

I learnt this and most youtube vids have the synth all over it, I found the one i used to get this off, live just heavy bass. I do use a Boss OC2 at 12 oclock and 3/4 direct fed in, 1st Oct only and use a Boss AW-3 set from left -right 2oclock 2oclock 2oclock and mode knob set to sharp. Depending on the hall sometimes the flanger sounds good with the Octave. I would also have my Bass xciter on for this number. I will agree it is a difficult one and easy to over do the bass end, and find you do need to cut through so upper mids and not too much bass on the guitar and amp let the effects carry the weight. So i used this vid to learn it then added an acceptable synth sound to carry it. http://youtu.be/_Nv10-Bc0m0

Wizzard pups get good reviews on here. I had not heard of then until i bought a Shuker 5 on here with them on. excellent sound and they can over wind them etc. and within reason spec each one to how you want it to sound. I would certanly specify them on on any relacement or new bass i Order.

Just wondered if you have a multi-effects unit, as I have found messing with multiple effects and accessible parameters can sound great in your room and be realy OTT on stage or can lose all your oomph and cut. So I use individual pedals now.

Interesting to see a Markbass with external switch, My LMK has not,(circa 1995) I did get out my manual before replying and it does state that they are factory set to be pre EQ. even though mine was post. If Markbass changed that in later models that should be noted, I thought i should state this as this thread may confuse others who find it later. This could also be an English translation typo ? I am happy with my DI set to post EQ for recording as I can ensure the desk is getting my sound, if the engineer wants to strip that back to flat I'll argue that later. For live Di mixing I agree a pre EQ would be prefered, but most companies will want you though one of their DI boxes anyway. But I have had some good comments from some theatres on the quality of the MB DI

Markbass acually state that their DI's are pre EQ and pre filters. so would not help you using just the amp stand alone. But my LMK is actually wired post EQ.from new, I don't know why. Markbass also say this can be changed internally, by a " qualified Technician" you check it when Di'ed through the band PA, just adjust the EQ drastically and ask the sound guy to listen if it is changing, then you'll know for sure.