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I have had the best experience with LFSYS; Stephan has built a Monza and shipped it to me in Norway ❤️ Still early days, but it's already proved it's sound capabilities and has surpassed my GR 12" active cab.

Weirdly one of the best tracking octaves I’ve tried was the Digitech Bass Synth Wah. Sounded brilliant, too.

Another vote for the Markbass CMD121P. I play in some loud bands and the master volume has never been above 4 even with no PA support. The foldable amp stand solves the 'firing at your feet' issue.

It might be worth contacting Hipshot directly. I’m sure I’ve seen a custom-ordered Xtender before that solved this problem by putting the lever on a spacer that gave it enough height to clear the adjacent tuner.

Maybe she has natural talent in abundance you can still have a good time with bass regardless

Yeah that’s what made me comment. It makes so much sense on stage, I’m surprised it’s not more common.

My bass has now been fretted.

here you go! https://ashdownmusic.com/products/b-stock-aae-ctm-valve-pre but yes, no one seems to have one. Depends if you regard £500 as expensive for a made in China valve preamp. It's the preamp from the Little Stubby. 5 days later no acknowledgement of the order beyond the receipt email so I got in touch. Apparently their engineer is testing it. That may mean they're trying to find it Anyway, I'll leave it a few more days before I start stamping my feet. The Friedman IR-D is here. I would say it's pretty good. Bass was a bit light until I fiddled with the microswitches and also discovered there's a deep switch if you go into software editor. So this is a hybrid analogue/digital circuit - the tone and gain section is all analogue, then there's a power amp modeller with presence and deep options, along with LPF and noise gate. This can be bypassed if you use the FX loop send as the out rather than the balanced out. The breakup is nice and the two channels are identical so it does what I want in terms of setting two very similar sounds. Also, adding some breakup does not flub out the bass, which is a big plus. However, I'm not sure the midrange is right where i want it, but I've only run it direct to amp so far and not through a mixer which could help that.

The Hartke tilts back and faces up like a stage monitor

I used to have an EBS Octabass which was good - they come up from time to time and they're usually not mad pricey.

Fortunately I’ve only ever had it twice, haven’t had one for years. In no rush to have another one any time soon

If only everything was as easy as a Status!

Exactly this. The price of anything falls between what someone is prepared to sell for & what someone will pay. There will always be those who have to sell quickly, either through no fault of their own or impulse buyers who spend what they can’t afford. Pawn shops thrive on it. For anyone who doesn’t need to sell now I’d say a Stingray holds it’s price better than cash in the bank.

Some chunky saddles on my Vigier Arpege fretless. I’ve actually found loads of bridges don’t allow for low enough saddles.

Great Odin’s ravens that is a gorgeous looking thing!!!!

Those are what I use too. Just press firmly where the string leaves the bridge and re-tune. After a few goes they’ll sit nicely and you’ll notice a much more piano- like clarity. I believe setting the witness points like this is really important for tone, not to mention tuning stability

Thanks, I'll give it a go when I get back from the SW on Friday - I think part of it is due to the Elixirs having no tapered end like some other strings do. They're actually quite a light gauge too - 40-95 set with a 125 B-string.

Blimey they are chunky. those strings could be set better in the saddle by pressing hard over the bridge - that B string is looking like it could be bent much more than it is. That’ll help quite a lot. I’ve used abrasive cord on all sorts of bridges - I’m sure they’d make light work of brass. I tend to tie one end of the cord to a door handle and hold the other end, then with my other hand I run the bridge saddle over the cord. It doesn’t take long to deepen the groove - just be careful to keep it straight (ish). Oh and the saddle will get quite hot! I have only really needed to do it for D and G strings (I like a super low action particularly on the treble side) so you might need different gauge cord for the bass side, so it might be a different ball game. Hopefully Overwater can supply some lower profile saddles but if not, instead of a new bridge, this is worth a try.

Bernie Goodfellow (GB Guitars) uses them on many of his builds. As you say, it’s really helpful and with no forseen downsides.

The problem with most combos is that they fire at your ankles. Try an Eich BC112pro - the tilt back functionality makes it seem like it’s super loud and amazing for monitoring.

Thanks Ped - these string guides are solid brass. The ones that have the separate inner block and the Alun key bolts in the top.Would an abrasive cord go through brass? Interestingly, I spoke to Chris May this morning and his idea was to take the bridge off and rout a few MM deeper, thus setting the whole bridge lower. 🤔

I'm late to the party, but I'll give it another go this year. I think this will be 3 years now. I really need to get better at impulse purchasing!