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DIY Effects


JackLondon

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Completed this OCD clone tonight, it's a 'Version 3' build although I socketed the relevant cap & diode to change if required.
Sounds great as is though! The Vero is my standard issue AMZ LED pop circuit :)





No design on the enclosure as it was just a quick build for testing, but did what I could with the knobs considering the name of the pedal ;)

Si

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Lashed one of these together today - wow. Given that it's a handful of components it sounds massive.

[URL=http://s1221.photobucket.com/user/paul_510/media/dbf_zpsa863c7f5.png.html][IMG]http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd471/paul_510/dbf_zpsa863c7f5.png[/IMG][/URL]

I used a iN4148 diode instead of a 1N914, but made it switchable between a germanium (1N34A) and the silicon one.

The thickness knob acts very much like the gate control on a wooly mammoth, so it'll do a lovely Muse-esque gated fuzz too. :D

I'll try to get some sound clips up tonight.

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Here you go Sibob:
[URL=http://s1221.photobucket.com/user/paul_510/media/2014-01-16130309_zpse1a566df.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd471/paul_510/2014-01-16130309_zpse1a566df.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

The case is one that I keep permanently wired up with a 3PDT switch, 9v power inlet, LED and sockets for experimenting (a bit like a breadboard, but not). It's conveniently got 4 holes on the top for knobs or switches and that. This one might be a keeper though…

[URL=http://s1221.photobucket.com/user/paul_510/media/2014-01-16130103_zpsb50e8c54.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd471/paul_510/2014-01-16130103_zpsb50e8c54.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

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[quote name='UglyDog' timestamp='1389446122' post='2334221']
Another quick query for you veterans -- how do you go about applying graphics to your finished boxes? I've got some cool ideas for a couple of the projects on my list but I have no idea how to actually do it!
[/quote]
Anyone..? :unsure:

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[quote name='UglyDog' timestamp='1390225544' post='2342764']
Anyone..? :unsure:
[/quote]

Have a look at this vid on toner transfer, not tried it yet myself but this seems to be the way to go according to quite a few folk: [url="http://pedalparts.co.uk/making-boxes-look-lush-with-laser-toner-transfer/"]http://pedalparts.co.uk/making-boxes-look-lush-with-laser-toner-transfer/[/url]

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[quote name='d-basser' timestamp='1390237407' post='2342981']


Have a look at this vid on toner transfer, not tried it yet myself but this seems to be the way to go according to quite a few folk: [url="http://pedalparts.co.uk/making-boxes-look-lush-with-laser-toner-transfer/"]http://pedalparts.co.uk/making-boxes-look-lush-with-laser-toner-transfer/[/url]
[/quote]
My wife does stuff like that when crafting. She's got an Antex soldering iron with a flat iron bit for the job. If you go to a craft shop and buy the foils you can reheat the ink and add proper metallic foils, gold, silver, bronze and such, to the print. Also, it also works with photocopier toner, not just laser printer toner. I believe you can buy the ink in stamp blocks, too, so you could use it with stamps or templates. She has got this wicked machine that looks like a printer but actually cuts stuff out, it can get quite detailed, too, good for making templates. So it is always worth asking if your missus has got any crafting (almost typed crafty, but that might come across a bit wrong) friends.

I need to do some testing with woods, but I am considering using the foil printing technique to put some fancy, stainless steel fret markers on my Warlock. I say fancy, but I mean the Mudflap Girl...

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I have a question for you pedal builders - I'm about to order one of those BB's from pedal parts, it's my first kit. I do have a soldering iron and it's a 30W. Would I be better off with a 40W or 60W iron for more heat, or will the 30W do?

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[quote name='ratman' timestamp='1390928711' post='2351423']
I have a question for you pedal builders - I'm about to order one of those BB's from pedal parts, it's my first kit. I do have a soldering iron and it's a 30W. Would I be better off with a 40W or 60W iron for more heat, or will the 30W do?
[/quote]

Your 30w should be OK for pedal building - I use a 25w myself.
I use a 60w for soldering to guitar pots, earthing etc.

Edited by nick
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[quote name='nick' timestamp='1390939789' post='2351605']
Your 30w should be OK for pedal building - I use a 25w myself.
I use a 60w for soldering to guitar pots, earthing etc.
[/quote]

This, If your iron gets too hot (60W etc…) then you'll destroy the bond between the PCB and the copper track, meaning you've knackered your board. If you're doing PCB stuff then I'd always recommend lead solder as it flows at a lower temperature than the lead free stuff.

Doctor Tweek has some stuff on here that's brilliant.

http://doctortweek.co.uk/shop/article_541/Solder-22SWG-(2-meters)---Low-Temp%2C-Fast-Flow%2Cproper-solder.html?sessid=23uqMJP6jhTe9LWNwSkQYi6XzMr3FYkKctXNf0r9iVSkCR4iYfINbcdBiXif9Ouv&shop_param=cid%3D19%26aid%3D541%26

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Just put together a cheeky Mammoth clone for myself.....only tested at home so far, but sounds pretty monstrous ....no pun intended:

[IMG]http://i59.tinypic.com/16hpzlt.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i57.tinypic.com/29glemf.jpg[/IMG]

I do like the Dremel for some pseudo-holographic design :-D

Si

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Behold what happens when you think you've got an enclosure that will do but don't check:




Shin-Ei companion fuzz, circuit sounds great, although I had to get creative with some caps to get to the right values, should be good once I get an enclosure drilled out properly.

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Shin-ei in it's more permanent home:






Not the neatest wiring job ever, and I'm definitely not an artist, but it works dagnabbit. Where do you all get that super stiff looking wire from, is it just single core? I experimented with varnishing the board (we use anti-tracking varnish at work) and I think I'll be doing it as standard from hence on, no more pissing about with insulation tape.

Edited by bobbass4k
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