Can this neck be repaired?

[Aygotaygo]

My Cort B4 Element took a dive onto concrete at an outdoor gig today, and now has a crack on the cusp of neck and headstock - photos attached.

 

i really love the bass, but I’m wondering if it’s worth repairing (assuming it can be repaired), or should it be binned?

 

All advice gratefully received 🙂

[jazzyvee]

I don’t see anything there that a decent competent luthier would have problems dealing with.  I’ve read of headstock cracks like that repaired. Where it has split rather than coming apart, a syringe can be used to get the glue right inside the crack before clamping it up. I hope you get it fixed. 👍🏾

[Aidan63]

Absolutely it can be repaired

Maybe take the string tension off slightly to help ease the crack and keep it clean so there's no contaminants to interfere with the glue up

All things being equal it should be stronger than ever after repair

Plenty of Gibson guitars with repaired headstocks following complete breaks out there so skills are well established 

[Hellzero]

Like @jazzyvee and @Aidan63 said, but don't attempt to do it yourself if you don't know what you're doing.

 

A luthier will ask you first if you've done any attempt in repairing it, and if yes, won't do the job, because glue can't be glued again if you don't remove completely the residues and it's a huge time consuming work...

 

It's a fast and easy job to do and without any lacquering afterwards if it's still clean, so won't be expensive at all.

 

After that, it will never break again at the glue point.

[Aygotaygo]

Thanks for all the replies - much appreciated. I sent the pictures to my usual guitar tech/luthier and she said there’s a possibility it might be repairable but the cost might make it uneconomical. Also, I took those pictures in the break between sets, but the crack had gotten worse by the end of the second set. If nothing else else I’ve now got an excuse to get a new bass 😁

[jazzyvee]

If it's uneconomical to repair by a tech, you won't lose anything by trying yourself. I'm sure you'd find a good youtube video and get a few clamps from a hardware shop or B&Q, or somewhere thar repairs furniture. It's just wood. Removing the string tension will stop it getting bigger before the repair.

[Hellzero]

We are you based @Aygotaygo as there should be someone around willing to help you or fix it for you?

[RonC]

It looks like a neat crack with no wood missing.

Just pull the strings off so the crack won't crack any further.

It's not a difficult repair so it sure is economical to repair it.

 

Edited Monday at 15:27 by RonC

[PaulThePlug]

I'd msg @Andyjr1515 for his take on the matter, and glue choice. 

Its a crack rather than a break, so no real alignment and angle issues, plus a nice bit of extra volute wood for strength in the vacinity...

ASAP While the tension is still on, some titebond(?) or most suitable - be nice and warm and runny this weather - to wick in all the open gap. Rather than looking to open the gap again for the glueing.

Then off with the tension and a good clamp... (i've seen inner tubes wrapped around things, then pumped up to apply conforming pressure if no decent clap and packing) - how long? 48hrs?

As mentioned previously, no lacquer finish, so a little bit of sanding, wire wool 0000 to remove any glue ooze  and a dab of oil or wax!

Edited Monday at 13:10 by PaulThePlug

[RonC]

2 hours ago, PaulThePlug said:

I'd msg @Andyjr1515 for his take on the matter, and glue choice. 

Its a crack rather than a break, so no real alignment and angle issues, plus a nice bit of extra volute wood for strength in the vacinity...

While the tension is still on, some titebond(?) or most suitable - be nice and warm and runny this weather - to wick in all the open gap.

Then off with the tension and a good clamp... how long? 48hrs?

As mentioned previously, no lacquer finish, so a little bit of sanding, wire wool 0000 to remove any glue ooze  and a dab of oil or wax!

 

You could add some water to the titebond if it's too thick to run into the crack, maybe a little "pumping" with the headstock to let the glue run into the crack. 

Edited Monday at 15:26 by RonC

[lemmywinks]

3 hours ago, Aygotaygo said:

Thanks for all the replies - much appreciated. I sent the pictures to my usual guitar tech/luthier and she said there’s a possibility it might be repairable but the cost might make it uneconomical. Also, I took those pictures in the break between sets, but the crack had gotten worse by the end of the second set. If nothing else else I’ve now got an excuse to get a new bass 😁

 

 

I would take it to someone else, that looks like it closes up just fine so shouldn't be a particularly difficult job.

[gary mac]

I've done plenty of those type of repairs and to date they've all remained stable.

 

 

[Stub Mandrel]

2 hours ago, RonC said:

2 hours ago, PaulThePlug said:

I'd msg @Andyjr1515 for his take on the matter, and glue choice. 

Its a crack rather than a break, so no real alignment and angle issues, plus a nice bit of extra volute wood for strength in the vacinity...

While the tension is still on, some titebond(?) or most suitable - be nice and warm and runny this weather - to wick in all the open gap.

Then off with the tension and a good clamp... how long? 48hrs?

As mentioned previously, no lacquer finish, so a little bit of sanding, wire wool 0000 to remove any glue ooze  and a dab of oil or wax!

 

You could add some water to the titebond if it's too thick to run into the crack, maybe a little "pumping" with the headstock to let the glue run into the crack. 

Edited 22 minutes ago by RonC

 

Pretty much what these guys are saying. Personally, I would not use typical luthier adhesives (they are for joints you want to open up again in future).

 

I would get hold of a top quality aliphatic adhesive like Super 'Phatic. This a super thin, super strong adhesive with excellent penetrating powers. Open up the crack as much as you can with safety and allow lots of Super 'Phatic in - it will wick right into the joint. Leave it for about a minute, then clamp the joint closed (have all your clamps and weights ready before you start). It's NOT a superglue so won't haze the finish and you can clean up with a damp cloth as soon as the crack is closed. The set adhesive is utterly waterproof - I have repaired ceramic plates with it, and they have survived years of use and even going through the dishwasher afterwards.

 

https://deluxematerials.co.uk/products/super-phatic

[Andyjr1515]

On 25/08/2025 at 16:56, Stub Mandrel said:

 

Pretty much what these guys are saying. Personally, I would not use typical luthier adhesives (they are for joints you want to open up again in future).

 

I would get hold of a top quality aliphatic adhesive like Super 'Phatic. This a super thin, super strong adhesive with excellent penetrating powers. Open up the crack as much as you can with safety and allow lots of Super 'Phatic in - it will wick right into the joint. Leave it for about a minute, then clamp the joint closed (have all your clamps and weights ready before you start). It's NOT a superglue so won't haze the finish and you can clean up with a damp cloth as soon as the crack is closed. The set adhesive is utterly waterproof - I have repaired ceramic plates with it, and they have survived years of use and even going through the dishwasher afterwards.

 

https://deluxematerials.co.uk/products/super-phatic

 

Yes - this ^^^^   

 

I've never used Super 'Phatic (it sounds great!) but you can certainly do the same thing with extra-low-viscosity CA glue (number of makers/suppliers but it is easy to get hold of and is a specialist 'super glue' that is much, much thinner than the standard stuff )

 

As @Stub Mandrel says, capillary action sucks the glue deep into the joint.   Masking tape right up to the edge is essential with CA glue, though, and after peeling it off, probably would need scraping with a razor blade to clean it up - and this might be where the super-phatic may well have the edge if it is water-based.

 

If you're fast with your fingers, you could even squirt the glue into the crack while the string tension is on, maximising the opening, then immediately release the tension when the glue's in there and, as @Stub Mandrel says, pop the pre-prepared clamps on.

[Andyjr1515]

Oh...and, you never know with such things, but based on the photos and where the crack actually is, I would be very surprised, if done as above and from what I can see in the photo, if the resulting mend was not strong enough.   

 

 

 

[rainbowreality]

On 25/08/2025 at 16:56, Stub Mandrel said:

 

Pretty much what these guys are saying. Personally, I would not use typical luthier adhesives (they are for joints you want to open up again in future).

 

I would get hold of a top quality aliphatic adhesive like Super 'Phatic. This a super thin, super strong adhesive with excellent penetrating powers. Open up the crack as much as you can with safety and allow lots of Super 'Phatic in - it will wick right into the joint. Leave it for about a minute, then clamp the joint closed (have all your clamps and weights ready before you start). It's NOT a superglue so won't haze the finish and you can clean up with a damp cloth as soon as the crack is closed. The set adhesive is utterly waterproof - I have repaired ceramic plates with it, and they have survived years of use and even going through the dishwasher afterwards.

 

https://deluxematerials.co.uk/products/super-phatic

This glue sounds great especially being able to clean up with a damp cloth. Definitely has the edge over super glue in that regard. I think I'll invest in a bottle! 

[snorkie635]

Yet another heartwarming, positive and helpful thread on BC. 
 

You've all made the world just that wee bit better for the OP. Well done folks, I'm honoured to be part of this community,