New BassChat 8"Cab design

[rwillett]

34 minutes ago, Rosie C said:

My old piano teacher used to say in a deadpan style that one missing finger she could help me work around, 2 and my piano playing would be seriously affected! I was never how much she was joking. 

 

Ah, that's my super power, I could lose one, two or even three fingers and my bass, guitar and piano playing wouldn't be any worse at all ....

[Chienmortbb]

3 hours ago, Phil Starr said:

Screw and glue, The whole design of the 'easy build' cab is based upon the ease of forming really strong 90deg joints without needing clamping. The screws hold everything in place and put pressure on the joints until the glue sets. The glue is what gives the cab it's final strength (it's stronger than the wood) and it also seals the joint so it is completely airtight. One option is to assemble the cab 'dry' with just the screws to check everything fits properly. You can teh take it apart and assemble it with the glue. I'll explain the gluing procedure later today. 

When I built my first basschat design, might even have been a prototype, I screwed and glued but if you are using Tuffcab, it does not stick well to metal or same fillers. The second cab I built screwed and glued but once the glue was dry, I removed the screws, drilled out the holes and filled with dowels. Once cut odd and sanded flat, the Tuffcab went on fine. Remember the glue is more than enough on its own, the screws just hold the panels in place while the glue dries.

 

What glues to use? Nothing fancy. There is no difference between the strength of Titebond and any £1.99 glue from Lidl. Titebond and a few others offer faster initial drying. That is to the time that you may unclamp. However, almost all require 24 hours to full achieve fullstrength so why risk it.

[nekomatic]

Apart from the baffle, the screws in the 1x8 and similar designs are on the inside - from the battens into the panels. 

[Stub Mandrel]

1 hour ago, Chienmortbb said:

When I built my first basschat design, might even have been a prototype, I screwed and glued but if you are using Tuffcab, it does not stick well to metal or same fillers. The second cab I built screwed and glued but once the glue was dry, I removed the screws, drilled out the holes and filled with dowels. Once cut odd and sanded flat, the Tuffcab went on fine. Remember the glue is more than enough on its own, the screws just hold the panels in place while the glue dries.

 

What glues to use? Nothing fancy. There is no difference between the strength of Titebond and any £1.99 glue from Lidl. Titebond and a few others offer faster initial drying. That is to the time that you may unclamp. However, almost all require 24 hours to full achieve fullstrength so why risk it.

 

I have a simple dowel jig from Screwfix. Never thought of using it for a cab!

[Chienmortbb]

2 hours ago, nekomatic said:

Apart from the baffle, the screws in the 1x8 and similar designs are on the inside - from the battens into the panels. 

Yes the cabs I built were battenless so a very good point. However, the main point is that the glue is enough if you can keep it clamped supported long enough.

[martin8708]

Great post , I had a few off-cuts of ply from a 1x15 build . 
Other bits are lower grade builders plywood, and raiding the spare parts bin produced corners and a handle and a port ( hope it’s not too big ) 

Speaker is an 8 inch 18Sound 250 watt driver from Lean business.( they were on sale ) 

I work outside ( no workshop ) ,so rain is a constant pain in the rear .

[rwillett]

Some magic seems to have occurred...

 

The observant amongst you will notice the 8" plans.

 

 

This is the home made router jig and it set up for a 68mm hole. This was some tests I did"just-in-case"

 

 

This is the baffle board with what appears to be the right sized hole and a 68mm with my printed port set in. The router jig works really well and cost an hour or two of printing and two M5 bolts.

 

 

As I'm intending to make three boxes, there's an awful lot of batterns....