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Pea Turgh

Planning a Jaguar build...

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I like the offset look of the Jaguar/Talman and with those Ric type pups and stacked knobs...this is going to look very cool! Subscribed (belatedly)! 

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This is looking rather splendid.  I wish I had your skills and patience.

The Talman body is lovely.

Frank.

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Ola peeps!

Family commitments have stopped progress this week, but I have a chisel waiting for me when I get home, so will crack on this eve!

I need some hive mind input - I bought a nice set of tuners from @TheGreek to put on this bass, but I forgot to take in to account the shaft/hole discrepancy.  Anyone know where I’d get some adapter ferrules from?

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If the bushing is too small, I use electrical tape wound around until it’s a tidy fit - it’s completely hidden when all assembled 

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Turns out standard bushings are the correct internal diameter for these Grover machine’s external dimensions, so I should be able to stack them.  We’ll see how that theory stacks up when the bushings arrive!

I have now expanded the existing pickup routes to accept my cheapie Ricky pickups, using drill bits and a chisel.  It’s not the neatest job, but I they will be covered by the new scratch plate and pickup surrounds, so all is well.

I had to tack on three little bits of wood to the end side I f the original route to take the pickup surround mounting screws.  Again, it ain’t pretty but it does the job.

 

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It’s worthwhile sanding the routes bits down, a little smoothness goes a long way and how are you shielding? A pot of carbon paint is not a lot of lolly and being black also hides a lot of ills

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Agreed on both counts, @Cuzzie!  For now I’m getting the fit sorted, finish will be after I know all the bits slot together nicely!

The bridge pickup is in now, but the p-position needs further adjustment.  I might even end up giving a router a try to make it look clean.  Pretty sure I used one in my dad’s workshop once, but that was literally half a lifetime ago!

I like the carbon paint method, so I will be getting some soon.

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Progress has once again slowed due to family stuff, but I have now stripped the white paint from the neck.  Standard P-type ferrules hold the Grover tuners nicely, so on to the finish.

I love the colour of a roasted maple neck, but it won’t fit in my oven, so I’m after suggestions for finishes that will give that tint.  Ozmo seems to be mentioned quite a lot on here - does that play nicely with nitro?  I’m going to try to match the headstock to the body colour, see.

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2 hours ago, Pea Turgh said:

Progress has once again slowed due to family stuff, but I have now stripped the white paint from the neck.  Standard P-type ferrules hold the Grover tuners nicely, so on to the finish.

I love the colour of a roasted maple neck, but it won’t fit in my oven, so I’m after suggestions for finishes that will give that tint.  Ozmo seems to be mentioned quite a lot on here - does that play nicely with nitro?  I’m going to try to match the headstock to the body colour, see.

Osmo is great as a satin finish - and yes...they indeed do tinted versions, but I would be tempted to stain it with a proper spirit stain and then put a clear finish over that (Osmo, Tru-oil, nitro, poly - they will all go over OK.

Reason for me saying that is that tinted finishes tend to having the colour sitting on top of the wood and it is difficult to get a depth of colour or, sometimes, evenness.  With a proper wood stain, you can experiment until you are happy with it and then seal it in your chosen clearcoat finish.

I would recommend the trial pack of Chestnut Spirit Stains (the wood colour ones - they also do a poster-colour pack but they won't be any good for what you are after) available from Axminster here:

https://www.axminster.co.uk/chestnut-spirit-stain-trial-packs-ax24498

Used carefully, each small bottle would easily do a whole guitar so this pack will last you years of multi-coloured builds!  There are a number of colours amongst them that would do what you are after.  You can also mix them, either together, or by doing a coat of one and then overlaying a coat of another.  Bear in mind that the actual colour will be majorly affected by the colour and porosity of the wood so it's useful to have a colour spectrum to get the right effect.

When staining, the colour as applied and still wet is a useful guide to how it will look when the clear finish has been applied.  When it dries it will look a different shade.  To double check the final colour once it has dried, just wipe over with a damp (not wet) cloth. For what you have described, on Maple, light oak and light mahogany will give the brownish/pinkish tinges and yew the yellow/orange tones - but there are plenty of other colours.

 

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I went off this for a bit after the ugliness of the routing!  Thankfully, a @KiOgon loom and a three hole tele plate turned up and I’m excited to get it finished 😎

 

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26 minutes ago, Jimothey said:

That’s going to look great mate!!........👍

Do you remember that advert where a guy in India makes a Peugeot 207 out of his car by getting an elephant to sit on it?

That may yet be me...

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Got this out of the case today.  This isolation stuff theoretically had so much promise, but the reality is I’m home-schooling my three kids, and the rest of the time I’m being fed instructions on what odd jobs need completing by Mrs Turgh!

I rough cut the scratch plate.  The purple lines were the first attempt that I ruined, so had to relocate the template and cut again.  There is a protective film yet to be removed, so the plate will be shiny and new once peeled off.

Couldn't resist a quick mock up!

 

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49 minutes ago, Pea Turgh said:

How can I get a consistent and even 45 degree bevel on the outer edge? 

Without a router it could be difficult.  I'd imagine it's possible with careful use of hand tools but I wouldn't like to try it.

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Well, since we’re not allowed outside now, I’ll give it a shot with some sandpaper and quite a lot of patience!

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If you are using sand paper you will need a block and even then you can easily end up with rounded edges.  Maybe careful use of a plane would get you there but then there is the grain direction to consider even if you are using a Surform type plane.

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Watching this with interest as I'm thinking of making something along the lines of a Reverse Jaguar Cabronita 5 string with a single Filtertron or Rickenbacker style pickup, volume pot only (I never use the tone anyway) and left handed neck. Getting some good ideas here :)

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Still trying to sand the base coat off!  The white topcoat left is some time ago, but this yellow gunk will not shift.  I even tried caustic soda mixed thick, that didn’t touch it either!

Will just do 20 minute sanding sessions every night and I’ll get there eventually.

Still no idea how to bevel the scratchplate edges.  I am woefully under-equipped for this modification stuff!  However, I shall soon have a bench to leave all my junk spread across.  I don’t know how that will help, but it makes me feel better.

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