Jump to content

Changing the scale length


fryer
 Share

Recommended Posts

[quote name='fryer' timestamp='1322682374' post='1454531']
So as long as I get the nut in the right place, where the 2nd fret was, it should be ok ? It sounds ok with the capo, so I don't think the pup position needs to change.

I think the only problem will be the fret markers, as lond as I can alter the truss rod.

Anyway, I've got the saw ready.

[attachment=94223:M-AKKU_MSA160C_CE-S001_p2_1.jpg]
[/quote]
But have you got the video camera ready?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Contrary to all the negative comments this is something that I've actively considered myself (but not done yet due to time limitations).

My only caveat would be that I'd probably start with a a £150 bass rather than a an £800 one (for the first one at least).

As per the OP, subject to detailed measurement, my idea would be to buy a 4 string headless 34" and lop off one or two frets, retaining the 1st/2nd fret as the zero fret of the new configuration. I would then re-string it as a narrow spacing 5 string (obviously the bridge and string anchor would need changing).

However having played fanned fret recently I have modified the idea to start with a 34" fretless and convert it to a fan fretted one with a 34" B and a 32 ish G string, using individual bridge tuners like the status. The only problem with this idea is that I'd end up with several hundreds of pounds of new hardware strapped to cheap bits of wood.


Problems with truss rods etc can be overcome. Pickups can are only ever at a sweet spot for a one particular fret position anyway, so unless you absolutely hate the sound of your bass when fretting at the second fret this will not be problem.

At the end of the day it's engineering, not some sort of voodoo black art, despite what people would have you believe.

Give it a go and let us know how it goes.

The count

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[quote name='Fat Rich' timestamp='1322661447' post='1454078']


This is probably your least destructive option (apart from not messing up... erm, I mean Er modifying your bass at all).

Keep the original double ball end retainer, replace the 2nd fret with a nut and remove the first couple of frets and hollow out a bit to look like a bendwell then you won't need to chop the truss rod.

But I think you'd be better off trading the bass for a proper short scale jobby,
[/quote]
I like the idea about hollowing out under where the first 2 frets would've been. I'd replace the second fret with a higher one to use as a zero fret,.and put the new nut just beyond that. I like zero frets. Give a really nice low action. My Status, Vigier and Hohner all have them..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My knowledge of maths and physics isnt the best but I always assumed scale length relates to the distance between two frets (notes, harmonic nodes,whatever you want to call the place where you put your fingers on the string) I would be surprised if the distance between fret at F# on the e string and G on the e string on a 34inch scale bass is the same as the nut to F fret distance on a 32inch scale bass, if its even different by a hundredth of an inch, it will lead to interesting tuning....

jonny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[quote name='jonnybass' timestamp='1327135141' post='1506740']
My knowledge of maths and physics isnt the best but I always assumed scale length relates to the distance between two frets (notes, harmonic nodes,whatever you want to call the place where you put your fingers on the string) I would be surprised if the distance between fret at F# on the e string and G on the e string on a 34inch scale bass is the same as the nut to F fret distance on a 32inch scale bass, if its even different by a hundredth of an inch, it will lead to interesting tuning....

jonny
[/quote]
This has already been dealt with earlier in the thread. Turning the second fret into the nut would make it a 30.3" scale. In scale length terms it's just the same as putting a capo on the second fret of a 34" tuned to DGCA making the scale length 30.3" (more strictly it's 30.290551181") and the old fourteenth fret becomes the new octave 12th fret etc.

The problems are not to do with scale length as long as the new nut is at the old second fret. It is problematic for other reasons.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well i've got it back from Joe White ( my friend and luthier ) and it's fine. Really pleased with it. Had to change the truss rod as it was a push - pull type, not just a tightening one. Frets all ok, and it sounds just as it should. Actual scale length is 30.5 ".

Pictures would be attached, but I have used over my 30 MB global upload quota. Anyone know how to get over this ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[quote name='fryer' timestamp='1327418999' post='1510900']
Well i've got it back from Joe White ( my friend and luthier ) and it's fine. Really pleased with it. Had to change the truss rod as it was a push - pull type, not just a tightening one. Frets all ok, and it sounds just as it should. Actual scale length is 30.5 ".

Pictures would be attached, but I have used over my 30 MB global upload quota. Anyone know how to get over this ?
[/quote]

Glad it worked out, for a while it really sounded like you were going to ruin a perfectly good bass!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...