Al Heeley Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 Help - I've had this little can of fingerboard oil for years and years, it's the best thing ever for conditioning fretboards, marvellous stuff, but it's run out and I can't find anywhere that sells it. Its a mix of linseed oil and lemon grass, not that naptha spirit stuff with lemon perfume added to it. I rub it in to fretboards, let it soak then buff off any excess, brings out a marvellos rich shine and smooth finish, dries hard and protects the wood. Company on the back says Logic International, Gwent but I can't find anything on the internet. Anyone know of this product? Whaere I can get some more? Suitable alternative to do the same job? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Protium Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 Try just using linseed oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voxpop Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 I use mansons oil. [url="http://www.mansons.co.uk/shopping/categories/electric-shop-guitar-care/manson/fingerboard-oil/"]http://www.mansons.co.uk/shopping/categori...ingerboard-oil/[/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icastle Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 Not come across that one before. You could make your own of course. Linseed Oil is easily available from most DIY shops and Lemongrass Oil is used in aromatherapy (you might find it in a well stocked chemists or there are plenty of places on the internet). I'm guessing that there's not a lot of Lemongrass oil in that mixture (it's rather strong smelling) - probably just enough to dull down the smell of the Linseed. Not very scientific but you could pour some linseed oil into a jam jar and add the lemongrass one or two drops at a time until it smells roughly the same as the tin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted May 24, 2011 Author Share Posted May 24, 2011 linseed - like raw tung oil, will not dry properly unless it is boiled and treated with dryers, I don't know if neat linseed from DIY outlets is the right thing to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mybass Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 [quote name='Al Heeley' post='1243284' date='May 24 2011, 07:04 PM']Help - I've had this little can of fingerboard oil for years and years, it's the best thing ever for conditioning fretboards, marvellous stuff, but it's run out and I can't find anywhere that sells it. Its a mix of linseed oil and lemon grass, not that naptha spirit stuff with lemon perfume added to it. I rub it in to fretboards, let it soak then buff off any excess, brings out a marvellos rich shine and smooth finish, dries hard and protects the wood. Company on the back says Logic International, Gwent but I can't find anything on the internet. Anyone know of this product? Whaere I can get some more? Suitable alternative to do the same job? Thanks![/quote] "Bore oil" made by Yamaha for woodwind. Used it for years, re-coat yearly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icastle Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 [quote name='Al Heeley' post='1243674' date='May 24 2011, 11:26 PM']linseed - like raw tung oil, will not dry properly unless it is boiled and treated with dryers, I don't know if neat linseed from DIY outlets is the right thing to use.[/quote] My local B&Q does both plain linseed and boiled linseed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 I've heard others recommend Bore Oil, might give this a try, just pretty expensive for a tiny bottle but I guess it lasts a few years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbyrne Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 I use a product called 'Liquid Gold' which has been left open to allow the 'Triklone' (Trichloroethylene) to evaporate. It's based on almond oil, as are a lot of oil treatments intended for antique furniture. G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ikay Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 [quote name='Al Heeley' post='1243798' date='May 25 2011, 07:36 AM']I've heard others recommend Bore Oil, might give this a try, just pretty expensive for a tiny bottle but I guess it lasts a few years.[/quote] This is what you need - [url="http://www.beafifer.com/boredoctor.htm"]http://www.beafifer.com/boredoctor.htm[/url] Mail order from the US but delivery is very quick. A little goes a long way, it's excellent stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy_Marsh Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 [quote name='geoffbyrne' post='1244011' date='May 25 2011, 10:54 AM']I use a product called 'Liquid Gold' which has been left open to allow the 'Triklone' (Trichloroethylene) to evaporate. It's based on almond oil, as are a lot of oil treatments intended for antique furniture. G.[/quote] Hopefully you don't mean you leave this type of liquid gold to evaporate around the room? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul h Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 I use WD40. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jantheman Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 Gerlitz Guitar Honey gets my vote..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ou7shined Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 [quote name='paul h' post='1245192' date='May 26 2011, 08:49 AM']I use WD40.[/quote] I hope you are joking. I'm a big fan of Ernie Ball Wonder Wipes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul h Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 [quote name='Ou7shined' post='1245242' date='May 26 2011, 09:40 AM']I hope you are joking. I'm a big fan of Ernie Ball Wonder Wipes.[/quote] Nope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lorne Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 Olive oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evil Undead Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 I've read that the rags used with boiled linseed oil have a tendency to spontaneously combust before the oil on them dries. Some kind of chemical reaction. In all honesty, I don't know how true that is, but I've always been really nervous about using it since then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted May 26, 2011 Author Share Posted May 26, 2011 not so much a tendency but a potential - it has been known but I've never encountered it myself or heard of anyone else actually experiencing it. Hang rags out on a line to dry, dont leave them crumpled up in a bin full of dry sawdust and gelignite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skidder652003 Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 Dr Duck's Axe Wax? Ive used this for years, seems pretty good, but you may have heard of it already? [url="http://www.sjhmusicservices.co.uk/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1&category_id=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=184&vmcchk=1&Itemid=184"]http://www.sjhmusicservices.co.uk/index.ph...&Itemid=184[/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted May 26, 2011 Author Share Posted May 26, 2011 if they say use it for the hardware for lubricating as well, then I'm guessing its a mineral oil. I prefer the tung or linseed approach to feed into the pores and seal them. That old number one fretboard conditioner can was my magic mojo, so sad to not find any more around. It had more the apprarance of danish oil, forming solid gummy bits around the screw cap after a while, so it was definitely a polymer oil type like tung or linseed..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icastle Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 [quote name='Al Heeley' post='1245500' date='May 26 2011, 12:49 PM']Hang rags out on a line to dry, dont leave them crumpled up in a bin full of dry sawdust and gelignite.[/quote] That HAS to qualify for tip of the week! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassBod Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 Almond oil, with a bit of whatever you like it to smell of (aromatherapy stuff). WD40 is fine and dandy for phenolic or plastic boards. Just don't put much on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 [quote name='Evil Undead' post='1245481' date='May 26 2011, 12:38 PM']I've read that the rags used with boiled linseed oil have a tendency to spontaneously combust before the oil on them dries. Some kind of chemical reaction. In all honesty, I don't know how true that is, but I've always been really nervous about using it since then.[/quote] I read the warning on Danish oil and tried to make it happen. Didn't. The cloth soak in it and dried up did burn cheerfully and real smokey when I had to figure which of my chimneys was connected to which pot though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbyrne Posted May 27, 2011 Share Posted May 27, 2011 [quote name='Randy_Marsh' post='1245047' date='May 26 2011, 12:22 AM']Hopefully you don't mean you leave this type of liquid gold to evaporate around the room? [/quote] G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wateroftyne Posted May 27, 2011 Share Posted May 27, 2011 [quote name='jantheman' post='1245204' date='May 26 2011, 08:58 AM']Gerlitz Guitar Honey gets my vote.....[/quote] +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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