daz Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 Is there anywhere in the UK i can get one of these Stewmac action gauges, or something very similar. . [attachment=62678:stewmac_gauge.jpg] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xilddx Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 I don't know about the UK, but just order one from StewMac. I got a whole fretting kit from them, no hassle. Lord knows why you'd want one of these gauges though. And if you do, you could make one easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voxpop Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 Isn't that great......................I want one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 A sec of feeler guages should cover the same ground, but not look as snazzy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tino Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 [quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='1007319' date='Oct 31 2010, 01:40 PM']A sec of feeler guages should cover the same ground, but not look as snazzy.[/quote] I was taught the side of a fag packet method and given that smoking is on the way out this may well become a lost art. Gives me an idea for an ebay auction Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daz Posted October 31, 2010 Author Share Posted October 31, 2010 [quote name='silddx' post='1007308' date='Oct 31 2010, 01:30 PM']I don't know about the UK, but just order one from Stew Mac. I got a whole fretting kit from them, no hassle. Lord knows why you'd want one of these gauges though. And if you do, you could make one easily.[/quote] I wouldn't trust myself to accurately mark off the quarter millimeter intervals (or the sixty fourths of an inch either) The reason i want one is that it gives a guarantee of measurement accuracy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xilddx Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 [quote name='daz' post='1007336' date='Oct 31 2010, 01:54 PM']I wouldn't trust myself to accurately mark off the quarter millimeter intervals (or the sixty fourths of an inch either) The reason i want one is that it gives a guarantee of measurement accuracy.[/quote] Why would you want that accuracy is what I meant. Unless you were asked to set up a bass by someone else, or have to set up your own bass each time you change strings to the micro-millimetre. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warwickhunt Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 That'd be no use to me... it doesn't go low enough for my action! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daz Posted October 31, 2010 Author Share Posted October 31, 2010 [quote name='silddx' post='1007344' date='Oct 31 2010, 02:02 PM']Why would you want that accuracy is what I meant. Unless you were asked to set up a bass by someone else, or have to set up your own bass each time you change strings to the micro-millimeter.[/quote] Oh right i guess we misunderstood each other then. Why i need it is because I'm something of a beginner, not yet quite a year has gone by since i picked up the bass. Well i don't actually know what a low or high action would sound or feel like. If someone asked me what my own string height was i wouldn't really have a clue, beyond "high ish". So id like to set up my bass exactly where it feels best and then see what the measurements are. I spose what I'm saying is i just need to know these things. I'm the same when i get into anything at first. I'm not comfortable till i know it inside out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xilddx Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 (edited) [quote name='daz' post='1007364' date='Oct 31 2010, 02:16 PM']Oh right i guess we misunderstood each other then. Why i need it is because I'm something of a beginner, not yet quite a year has gone by since i picked up the bass. Well i don't actually know what a low or high action would sound or feel like. If someone asked me what my own string height was i wouldn't really have a clue, beyond "high ish". So id like to set up my bass exactly where it feels best and then see what the measurements are. I spose what I'm saying is i just need to know these things. I'm the same when i get into anything at first. I'm not comfortable till i know it inside out.[/quote] Ah, right. You REALLY don't need one of these mate! Can you do a set up, playing with the truss rod? If you can then all you need are tools to adjust the truss rod and the bridge saddles, and possibly a capo to check for the right neck relief. The best action is the one you are comfortable with. Medium low is about 2mm at the 12th on the E string (space between top of fret and bottom of E string), but it all depends on the bass itself. Every neck is a little different and behave differently when setting the relief with the truss rod. You sound like you need to get it set up professionally at the moment. I hope that helps. EDIT: there are many set up guides out there so have a look, and of course many experts on here too. Tune the bass to concert pitch, or whatever tuning you normally use, Drop D perhaps. Use the [u]proper[/u] tools for the following: The first thing to do is check the neck relief (a gentle bow in the neck to compensate for the string amplitude while vibrating). You fret your E string at the 1st fret and also at the 12th. There should be a small gap of between 1/2 or 1/4 mm between the string and fret around the 7th fret. If it is a big gap, you need to [b]tighten the truss rod[/b] a little - no more than a quarter turn at a time then re-check. If there is a Rizla paper gap, or no gap, then [b]loosen the truss rod[/b] a little - no more than a quarter turn at a time then re-check. [i]Turn the truss rod adjuster accordingly - [b]Lefty Loosey[/b], [b]Righty Tighty[/b].[/i] The truss rod creates a counter-tension to the tuned strings to keep the neck correctly profiled, so it doesn't look like a bunch of bananas. Then adjust height at the saddles so you can get the lowest comfortable action with little or no fret buzz, a little buzz is not a problem. Check for buzz or chokes all the way up the neck and adjust height accordingly until fretting at each fret produces a clear note with almost no buzz when plucked with you normal strength. Do this for each string. Then you should be close to about right. It may settle in overnight and buzz a little more than before, so re-adjust if necessary. NOTE: If the truss rod is very hard to turn, don't force it! Take it to a pro. Edited October 31, 2010 by silddx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stingrayPete1977 Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 I have been playing for years and would like one (and will get one) I have set all my basses to where my favourite feeling bass was which happened to be how the pre EB was setup. I used a steel rule off the fret just like the tool and I am very happy with it but the tool would make it a lot easier and you could make a quick diagram for reference in moments. Feeler gauges dont really work because you need to double them up (unless you like it freakishly low) or even 4 or 5 which just slip around and push the string away from your fixed position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daz Posted October 31, 2010 Author Share Posted October 31, 2010 (edited) [quote name='silddx' post='1007376' date='Oct 31 2010, 02:23 PM']Ah, right. You REALLY don't need one of these mate! Can you do a set up, playing with the truss rod? If you can then all you need are tools to adjust the truss rod and the bridge saddles, and possibly a capo to check for the right neck relief. The best action is the one you are comfortable with. Medium low is about 2mm at the 12th on the E string (space between top of fret and bottom of E string), but it all depends on the bass itself. Every neck is a little different and behave differently when setting the relief with the truss rod. You sound like you need to get it set up professionally at the moment. I hope that helps.[/quote] Im fine with my hands and regularly fix my own car or do welding for others people. So Im quite happy to steam in with screw drivers and Allen keys a' flying. I know from past experience though, thats not the way to do it. Ever since at age 8, whenI first took apart the family record player and couldnt put it back together I have a couple of cheapo bass that i can practice on. In fact i already have. Im having trouble with moving the bridge screw backward or forward and synchronizing it with string height. I do exactly as recommended but cant seem to get it right. This is really the reason i want a measurement device. To make sure im not moving too far or too fast etc. The thing is, if i cant get it right on a parctice bass, im obviously reluctant to try it on my CVJ. Not that im pretending it on a par with a Lakland or a Warwick.(or your own beautuful Chris Squier Electra tribute bass) But if i mess it up, ill actually have to pay someone else to fix it for me. I will read your instructions through and try again. Cheers. Edited October 31, 2010 by daz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arthurhenry Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 "Lefty loosey, righty tighty" only applies if the adjustment nut is at the heel of the neck. If it's at the headstock, it's the other way around! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xilddx Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 [quote name='arthurhenry' post='1007461' date='Oct 31 2010, 03:36 PM']"Lefty loosey, righty tighty" only applies if the adjustment nut is at the heel of the neck. If it's at the headstock, it's the other way around![/quote] You're wrong. Sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skankdelvar Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 (edited) [quote name='arthurhenry' post='1007461' date='Oct 31 2010, 03:36 PM']"Lefty loosey, righty tighty" only applies if the adjustment nut is at the heel of the neck. If it's at the headstock, it's the other way around![/quote] NOI, but - like Silddx - most every headstock end truss rod nut I've ever encountered has been lefty-loosey Key thing here is [i]always[/i] loosen the strings before adjusting relief. The reason I use feeler gauges is because I'm never sure exactly where to put my eye in relation to the string in order to sight it against the mark on the ruler. Also, being a bit long-sighted it's easier for me to see the string deflect upwards when the feeler gauge is too thick. Don't worry about things not being right first time. Setting up a bass or a guitar is a game of incremental adjustments to each variable until it feels right. And even if you start with the Mfr's recommended action / relief, it's pretty difficult to get a nice low action if the nut's too shallow / deep, the frets are worn or there's a bit of a hump in the neck. Most tuner pedals are a bit 'gross' for setting intonation - here's a 'free trial & register if you like' software tuner that goes to 1 cent and allows for variable temperaments, custom sweetened tunings etc : [url="http://www.aptuner.com/cgi-bin/aptuner/apmain.html"]http://www.aptuner.com/cgi-bin/aptuner/apmain.html[/url] Just plug your bass into your PC and off you go. Edited October 31, 2010 by skankdelvar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiOgon Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 There's some 1st class advice above from silddx, you'll not go wrong if you follow that A little tip I often use for measuring string height is to use the allen keys you'll have for adjusting bridges etc. If - like me - you've got mm & imperial you can choose your keys of choice, gently inserting with a flat against the fret & see the size of the gap. BTW - All allen keys are sized AF, that is across flats in case you didn't know, sorry if I'm teaching my gran to suck eggs like, so if a 2.5mm or 3mm allen key will fit under the E string at the 20th fret - for me is a good place to start. I suppose it's using the keys like a feeler guage but without the hassle. Cheerz, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molan Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 I had a look at that StewMac site - a veritable treasure trove of stuff there! One thing I thought was a bit expensive/not that important was the long straight edge they offer in the basic setup kit? It's $50 for a standard 18th long one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul h Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 I use a 150mm steel rule. I also have a 600mm one for checking overall level, a fret rocker and a fret levelling/dressing kit. All off ebay and all dirt cheap and perfectly fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arthurhenry Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 [quote name='silddx' post='1007478' date='Oct 31 2010, 04:49 PM'] You're wrong. Sorry.[/quote] You're right of course. I was thinking of it looking at the bass from the front, rather than down the neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xilddx Posted November 1, 2010 Share Posted November 1, 2010 [quote name='paul h' post='1007675' date='Oct 31 2010, 06:47 PM']I use a 150mm steel rule. I also have a 600mm one for checking overall level, a fret rocker and a fret levelling/dressing kit. All off ebay and all dirt cheap and perfectly fine.[/quote] The fret rocker is a VERY useful bit of kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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