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Prime_BASS

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Everything posted by Prime_BASS

  1. Also a amp heads manual will say how many cabs of what impendence it can be connected to. Take a look at Barefaced website (can't link as im on my phone) there is a tone of useful info there.
  2. Cause I'm bored On my day off I put everything in the bag I usually use, including a compressor I don't use and a drive I don't use, also relevant power supply and cables. 12lbs all in. With just a tuner 11.6lbs So I may be saving weight with a RH750. Going to have a look on the web see if any where local will have one for me to try.
  3. Every kilogram counts when you are a public transport user or have to beg for lifts to places with a rig on your back. After checking everything out the RH750 seems like a sensible choice. I just have to hear it in person with my cabs, to seal the deal. At the minute I rack up my cab, amp head then another bag full of cables and the like. If the rh750 can fit in my gig bag then that will make it even better. I do have another question. As I've been using the LMtube it has both SS and tube preamps so now I fully understand when people talk about tube dynamics. Tube preamps just do something or me that SS I feel will never do. Does the RH750 emulate this aswell? And how well? If I can get some holidays in at work soon then I'm on the wu down to London to puck up a bass so may have to take you up on the RH450 offer, if I can try it at Lear at a rehearsal it'll confirm my fears or exceed expectation.
  4. Bump for a Notts bassist!!!
  5. I did power sanding after I did nitromers on a some squier jazz body. I ended up with the sealer like you have now and if this sue ryder is any bit similar, the sealer is going to milimeters thick in places and takes ages and lots of sand paper to get off!!! Seriously it was fun and a learning curve but I never want to do it again. Added that you'll still have to do the graded sanding till you get to 1000 grade (or something) the more of the sealer you get off with nitromers the better as it isn't as labouring and you can do grooves and the cut awaysmore easily. I also heard a heat gun is good, but never tried it personally.
  6. Whats deterring me is: weight and sound. 8lbs is a little heavier than some other amps that are rated for more watts. The sound, well I'm so used to the LMtube that I love and I haven't heard anything but the GB shuttle 8 in person that comes close. However, a lot of days when practicing I feel I need a quality compressor, and I'm always taking my TU-2 every where (having a comp and a tuner plus relevant power supply and cables may add up to over 8lbs) but at 9 out of 10 gigs they DI and over compress my sound anyway. What would be great is if I could try one of these out for a week or 2. Anyone??? Oh Gareth, you don't get much in the way of good luck anymore do you?.
  7. [quote name='wateroftyne' post='1211562' date='Apr 26 2011, 11:38 AM']I think the logic is that it lets you dial down the tweeter (if you have one) to emulate a vintage cab.[/quote] I guess there are cabs out there without an attenuator for the tweeter so it does sort of make sense.
  8. I think I understand now. Just opens the taps on the high, but useless if your cab doesn't do anything higher than say 3k? Would have been better calling it hi-fi-tone or modern-tone, but then that doesn't begin with T.
  9. [quote name='MatthewKeys' post='1210220' date='Apr 24 2011, 06:32 PM']Looks like it's going to cost £50 just to get this cabinet inspected by the guys at the surrey amp hospital... I can't even imagine how expensive the actual repair will be. Does anyone want to buy this broken cabinet off me? [/quote] Not even sure it's broke. Better off shopping around to see if someone can check it for free. I still standby that it's fine you just need to attack the thing with everything flat and start EQing from there, even the active EQ on the bass guitar itself. Make sure you set the input gain right as the head should be very mid range focused. (is the deep switch in?" It shOuld turn out that there is loads of bottom and some shrill highs. Ifso you want to add some high mids a little low mids and cut some bass.
  10. Whoop! Mark got back to me, he keeps sone in stock so I should be getting mine soon, probably a good time to try some flats on my ray aswell I guess.
  11. I just want to add my two bits to this pickup thing. Series or parrallel. Series will give a slightly higher output than parallel, as it is generally 6db "louder". However it boosts the low mids and looses some highs for this boost, not good with some basses that have mo active EQ and or a second pickup closer to the neck as you can end up with a really boomy sound coming from the bass. My personal preference is parallel like standard stingrays. SMB4A or 4D? The A is alnico like standard stingrays and in my opinion have the more vintage sound, as in it's more mellow around the mids and a fuller bottom, but still in rays anyway you get a great high end response. The 4D is ceramic, like on sterlings. Which has more aggressive mids which can be mistaken for hotter output. Personally I don't like ceramic pickups as they can sound nasally. Wiki says: It is a common magnetic material for electromagnetic instrument pickups, because of price and relatively high output. However, such pickups lack certain sonic qualities found in other pickups, such as those that use Alnico alloys or more sophisticated magnets I always think ceramics are used cause they are cheap and thus cheapen the sound. Alnico is a purer metal compound so I assume I'm going to get a purer sound. I think you'll prefer the SMB4A as it is closer to a standard rays pickup that others, however I do have a Delano alnico replacement hanging about brand new in the box if you are interested.
  12. Never heard/or seen of these before.
  13. [quote name='RhysP' post='1210987' date='Apr 25 2011, 04:19 PM']Get a really sh*tty job that pays f***-all? Works for me.[/quote] This does work sometimes. This month I managed to survive on £35 after I paid for the big al.
  14. [quote name='Johnston' post='1210894' date='Apr 25 2011, 02:18 PM']That's a whole different website [/quote] Wifechat.co.uk I've only been playing bass for 1 and a half years and I'm on my 8th bass. I'm always scouring the for sale section. I keep looking at the great amps available or very little money aswell!
  15. 450 pounds!!!!!! Wow My heart says yes but my mind says no I'm afraid. Got my eyes on a great bass that I really want. If the cash was floating around I'd have it!
  16. Personally I'd save a bit extra cash and get a second hand Stingray. Never known any ray to cost £1600 new. Bass direct I think has starting prices of £1200+ and there is still the standard series that come in at £999. My big al didn't even come to £1600, and I see some places quoting prices of £1700 upwards. Although if you are that strapped for cash and just want a taste of a ray sound and playability in my opinion you are better buying a S.U.B. I did but then I got a secondhand ray anyway.
  17. I am now going to be doing the same!!!
  18. What kind of sound do you want? As for cab-age I can only ever recommend Barefaced. Best cabs I've ever used, the basic range (compact, midget, super twelve, and the double 15) are all equally great, each with a size and loudness ability to suit your own needs. Hard to describe how they sound as you get what you put in. Put in a natural reasonable flat head (markbass for example) get that coming out the speaker, but put in a phat tube head, get a phat tubey sound coming out. Only cabs I've played that let the bass and bass amp head dictate what comes through the speakers. As for heads, personally I'd recommend the Markbass Littlemark tube, as it does do hi-fi and vintage. The EQ doesn't colour the sound too much and I like it as it let's my playing and how the bass sounds come through naturally.
  19. Bass ads these days seem to think we are all sissies who listen to "you me at six" who ever they are.
  20. [quote name='LukeFRC' post='1210531' date='Apr 25 2011, 12:05 AM']Generally..... Basschat has an interesting way of working out the 'worth' of a bass, it's interesting to watch. Because the market seems to have bottomed out a while back.... the prices new started going up several years back. Secondhand prices, esp on basschat, stayed pretty low. I remember seeing a MIM P bass up for £150. But then if people have less money, say £50 desposable income a week rather than £100 the difference between £400 and £350 will seem much bigger, esp as the same item new will be over double that now. So sellers will be less likely to slash the (perceived) second hand value of their basses. Take stingrays for instance... you could get one for just over £500 ish a while back, but you would be mad to sell it at that low price. so you stick it up at £1000 and see what happens. People also seem to be going for more traditional styles, so fender are back big style - and then they hike their prices up and that change gets reflected quicker in the secondhand market. Also worth thinking about.... as there seem to be a greater proportion of trades rather than sales you do yourself no favours dropping your price, and you suddenly start getting offered overpriced squiers in trade for your dirt cheap custom job. Not good. So a lot of basses are looking more expensive than they were 6 months ago. Some folk are having trouble adapting to that and make daft posts. Specifically why this seller? who knows. (one day warwicks will be in fashion again! )[/quote] Very sensible post.
  21. Free bump!!!!
  22. [quote name='Musicman20' post='1208900' date='Apr 23 2011, 08:35 AM']It's like a lo pass filter selector. Bright/Grindy to warm/vintage and in-between.[/quote] Ah!! That makes more sense. Could compare it to say the VLE filter on MB heads Gareth?
  23. Overdrive is generally about mids. Which is why I dont understand tech 21's scooping on the para driver and BDDI I don't know about the character pedals however. 2-3 is practically off then? I'm not sure I'm still a little confused. I guess you can just try it flat( or at least all EQ knobs at 12) then compare that to the sound of the bass into the fx loop (which should be as flat as you can get through your cab) you should try this with bass pre-amp flat aswell. From there you can work on how the heads pre-amp is voiced(for example the orange terror bass sucks the highs and adds a bit too much bass to give it a vintage sound) I can't imagine ever having the mids on a head on full. . What I tend to do is use a head that is pretty even spending across all frequencies with a tube pre-amp for those tubey dynamics. Then EQ using my bass' on board pre-amp. If you get the sound out of the bass right first everything tends to follow after wards.
  24. [quote name='richardd' post='1208916' date='Apr 23 2011, 08:48 AM']Not sure if this is a tongue in cheek P ss take, (see my 03 thread) but the ones in my 03 are DImarzio's as stated ,so really cannot compare. To Tom and Kalfer,You are right, I am not going to drop the price,there are great basses out there not selling, think some people want you to give them away,but we have all lost hundreds in the past,this has to stop somewhere,good luck with your sales Regards Rich[/quote] Sorry my bad I just wasnt paying attention. I'm staying very far away from all that business. In that case how do the delanos sound in general ? As in output? Even-ness across each sting, frequency range, voicing in general?
  25. Bass and treble at 2 -3 or 2 thirds? Either way turning both those down will give you more mid boost. Also are you setting the gain right (not sure if this amp has this feature) New strings? What cab you running? All else fails, plug into the amps receive on the effect loop which cuts out the preamp altogether see how that sounds.
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