EBS_freak

This is going to look great. Watching with interest.

And of course, pics when done!

OR https://www.studiospares.com/Cables-Leads/Stageboxes/Chassis-Patch-Plate--Wall-Box-4-Way_403040.htm WITH 4x6mm, 1x20mm and 1x15mm (15mm may be difficult to find!) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blanking-Closed-Rubber-Grommets-6-9-12-16-20-25-32-50mm-1-6mm-Panel-thickness-/262281562555 ALTERNATIVELY, cover the rear holes with something like... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-X-SELF-ADHESIVE-STICK-ON-RUBBER-FEET-20MM-X-3MM-/191815387956

Maybe this should provide some inspiration... http://www.screwfix.com/p/tower-1g-surface-box-with-20mm-knock-out-and-mini-knockout/33241 (you can get metal boxes - but they will have holes in the back...) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-SINGLE-GANG-4-XLR-HOLE-SWITCH-FACE-PLATE-BRUSHED-STAINLESS-/261981217721 http://www.neutrik.com/en/xlr/d-series/nc3md-h http://www.neutrik.com/en/audio/plugs-and-jacks/jacks/combo-a-series/ncj6fa-v-0 http://www.neutrik.com/en/audio/plugs-and-jacks/locking-1/4-chassis-jacks/nj3fp6c http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A4-Marine-Grade-Stainless-Steel-Nyloc-Nylon-Insert-Locking-Nuts-M3-4-5-6-8-10-12-/360650014234 (--> M3) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A2-Stainless-Steel-Button-Head-Screw-Allen-Socket-Bolts-M3-M4-M5-M6-M8-/160792810792 (--> M3) PS always mount all the connectors from the rear! (Looks more pro) Look at the powercons on this (bad) - http://www.lexproducts.com/content/upload_products/129/prmiun-6ca-front-rgb-xl-v1-a__large.jpg Compared to (good) - https://studiospares.s3.amazonaws.com/p/alt/l/538690_1.jpg

[quote name='leroybass' timestamp='1476872605' post='3157909'] you could try using spacers on the e string behind the bridge, so if you put a few washers on the string and then string it through the bridge, you will lengthen the scale of your bass without effecting the tuning, it might help [/quote] Im not sure I follow - the scale length of a bass is the nut to the break point on the saddle (compensated by the string width). What you are suggesting doesn't impact scale in any way?

My apologies - you are right.

WD40 should clean those up nicely... or lighter fluid, or a little big of brasso on a rag. Don't be tempted to use anything like wirewool as you'll never get the metal debris away from the magnets.

[quote name='anzoid' timestamp='1471787740' post='3115839'] Just got hold of a Streamline 5 in satin white. Joyous Plays beautifully and sounds awesome. [/quote] Oh wow, that looks very cool. 80s cool Want.

[quote name='ursus' timestamp='1476867147' post='3157837'] Not EBS hifi clean. I have a Reidmar 750 and a Streamliner 600, both have the treble/bright at 10/12 Khz as the M900 have the treble break at 5Khz. So if you have the typical EBS glitter string sound in mind I have to say...not really. [/quote] Well... that's saved me some money

[quote name='AndrewJordan' timestamp='1476820327' post='3157616'] Hi dood! How would you compare the clarity/ frequency responce between the er15s and the 64 audios? [/quote] Can't really compare as one is earplugs with filters, the other is an in-ear monitor!

[quote name='Delberthot' timestamp='1476823140' post='3157646'] [url="http://s927.photobucket.com/user/Delberthot/media/14089238_186834378388756_330157803568661876_n_zpsouj6rnhg.jpg.html"][/url] [/quote] It's like a beefier PJB Earbox! Cool solution - is there a top hat insert on the bottom of that cab or is there a metal plate that the cab is sitting on?

[quote name='ras52' timestamp='1476865292' post='3157812'] With a link to a transcription in the description - nice! [/quote] Just seen that too... sweet. May have a wee look later.

Can this thing do super hifi clean too? (Obviously bypassing all the overdrive stuff)

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Nice!!

[quote name='BassTractor' timestamp='1476827928' post='3157696'] However, the MIDI keyboard did not play as luvverly buttery as the real Rhodes keyboard did, I had no money to add a real Janus to my real Rhodes, and after long, careful consideration, the emulation stayed and the real Rhodes went. I also saved some backs by this. [/quote] The beauty is, you can find many boards with different actions... there's bound to be something to tickle your fancy. Mind you, with regards to keyboard actions, I don't think I have played two Rhodes that feel identical...!

More interesting interview stuff with Jerry Harvey - http://www.giggabpodcast.com/2016/10/17/jerry-harvey/

[quote name='chrisanthony1211' timestamp='1476824699' post='3157663'] Well Yamaha DXR15 arrived today, they are quite large, and very well made, cant wait to gig with these.. [/quote] Top choice!

[quote name='pete.young' timestamp='1476796704' post='3157308'] Ha ha, I was just taking one when you posted! [/quote] That works doesn't it... although I'm probably stating the obvious when I say a longer lead would be preferable so the pouch can be mounted the other way around?

[quote name='pete.young' timestamp='1476795411' post='3157283'] Excellent, now I finally have a use for those pointless phone-pockets that are supplied with laptop backpacks and are too small to hold a modern smartphone! [/quote] Excellent - a pic of that would be appreciated too!

Also, are you wireless or cabled on your bass? If wired, it may be better to run a dual function cable (e.g. one for your bass, one for your inears) than to wrestle with low cost radio systems.

Drop Tonyf a line - although I believe he utilises the MEI1000 and not the MEI100. In the monster IEM thread (linked above), you'll see that most LD users are using the 1000... I don't know if using the 100 is the source of your problems however. Radio gear for wireless IEM is very sketchy unless you are prepared to outlay some serious cash. RF needs to be reliable and the compounders need to be spot on - especially for bass players. Perhaps the response level is not up to what you need? I still haven't tried the LD systems but from all the other budget systems that I have tried, I would say save your money and go wired unless you can plump for either the Sennheiser EW300 or Shure 300/900 - but appreciate that is a much higher investment over what you have already. Having said this, do drop the LD users a line to see what they think - I know Tonyf has been happy with his - but conversely he hasn't heard my EW300s or PSM900s to compare with.

[quote name='Iain' timestamp='1476794682' post='3157269'] Ordered one - thanks! [/quote] No problem. Post a pic with the Smooth Hound in place when it arrives - I don't think anybody has used one of these for holding one yet and they are a bit different in their format to other transmitters.

[quote name='markstuk' timestamp='1476781929' post='3157107'] Pretty much everything is samples or synthesis these days in keyboard land... The days of lugging a B3, Leslie, Rhodes and a Clav to a gig are long gone for 99% of us.. [/quote] Indeed - and the tweak ability of keycape enables you to capture... or even remove... ever little nuance. So with a mac and a controller keyboard, you have all those instruments at your disposal... without the hassle of actually micing them up to make them sound good. Why would you take out the real thing when the emulation sounds better than what you'd be able to achieve with the real thing?

I would wager the problem is not with your speakers. Are you utilising high pass filters to curb the lows on your desk? I don't know what desk you have but if it's digital, you probably want to be shelving everything under 40 hz on all channels... then the same at 100Hz for vocals, guitars (maybe even higher for guitars), drum kit apart from kick... etc. That should help keep the crap out of the mix before it even hits your speakers. The crossover on your system depends on how well the tops interact with the sub. As a starting point, I would probably crossover at 80 so the tops are doing more work than the sub as you only have one sub... but above all, use your ears... if your ears tell you otherwise, go with that.