Sparky Mark

[quote name='psb_87' timestamp='1479894084' post='3180034'] Hi julesb, I'm about to do the same thing in my LMiii head, and I'm going to use exactly the same fan as you. I just wanted to ask, did you use the little voltage adapter cable with the resistor or did you just connect it at full voltage? Have you had any problems with overheating or cutting out since doing it? Thanks in advance! [/quote] You should check that the replacement fan specifications are the same or better than the original. It's when you're playing at high volume in a hot venue you will need the maximum air flow / pressure from the fan. Assuming both fans are brushless and capable of running at variable speeds dependent upon the amps cooling requirement, lower noise might be because of lower airflow. If you have an older class AB LM3 it will need all the cooling it can get under those conditions. Mine gets pretty warm and I would be very careful about replacing the fan.

Alberto bought a bass from me and he was a pleasure to deal with. I never thought that I would get involved with shipping to Spain but Alberto arranged it all so all I had to do was pack and drop off at the nearest TNT depot. Alberto paid by bank transfer with no hassle and excellent communications throughout. Gracias Alberto.

Over the past 30 years I have owned at least a couple of dozen Fender Precision and Jazz basses. Starting with Japanese Squires (with the large Fender decal) then Japanese Fenders through to USA models including the original Elites. I now own one Mexican Reggie Hamilton Jazz and a Japanese P-Lyte as my only active Fenders, all others have been gradually swapped out for 2008 and later American Standard and Custom Shop models. In my experience the 2008+ American standard is consistently the best Fender has produced but we are talking about diminishing returns here. Spending another £300+ over a Mexican won't get you a bass massively better and maybe won't even sound better (might be different but better is a matter of taste). But what you will get in my experience only, is better timbers, hardware, fit and finish, hardcase and tools that make it worth the premium.

[quote name='ianrendall' timestamp='1476208588' post='3152376'] This is the bridge on my Jazz. Seems that black is correct for the bridge screws. http://intl.fender.com/en-GB/guitar-bass-parts/bridge-assemblies-components/american-deluxe-4-string-bass-bridge-assembly-04-10-chrome/ [/quote] Yep. That's the one.

[quote name='Geek99' timestamp='1476184575' post='3152006'] ok - i stand corrected but he is talking about an older 2005 model? [/quote] So was I. In fact I had the heavier BBOT bridge on my longhorn jazz even before the S1 switch models were thought of.

[quote name='Geek99' timestamp='1476128875' post='3151633'] Yes all chrome absolutely everywhere - [/quote] That's incorrect. Fender introduced a heavier mass BBOT bridge before moving to the current high mass design that had black springs, black intonation and grub screws. Scratchplate screws were chrome though AFAIK.

I have a 1991 NT4 Thumb with MEC jazz pups and it sounds nothing like any of my other jazz basses. You are correct about the weight (10lbs) but I haven't noticed neck dive. I do attribute the unique sound to the neck through construction and the extremely dense woods used throughout. I bought the Ibanez SR1200 as a much lighter alternative to my Thumb as the neck construction although not the same uses similar woods and feels similar too.

Wow! A less than half price AD200B with free cabs!

[quote name='M@23' timestamp='1475332392' post='3145129'] Club 600F32 😉 No idea why they discontinued it when they did. It was the best cab they made IMO. An absolute beast. [/quote] A fantastic cab indeed, but much larger physically than the NY122 and therefore maybe not the ideal small venue cab.