Sparky Mark

I have a fretted mahogany Kala U bass and thoroughly enjoy playing it on the rare occasions it goes to small pub folk nights. The stock strings do take an age to stretch out so you don't have to keep retuning, but once they are I don't have a problem with intonation. Having said that I use it to play walking bass lines and tend not to do too many slides which could cause problems if done with high pressure on the strings I guess.

I have a Fender Reggie Hamilton Standard Jazz bass which is the perfect PJ for me. It has the classic PJ pup configuration, slim J neck and a fully featured active pre amp that can be switched off for passive use. If you are thinking of modifying a non USA P then it shouldn't affect its value too much, but you will reduce the appeal of a good USA P by a non reversible mod. If it is going to be a keeper then go for it either way.

I have moved from largeish neo cabs (Hartke hydrive 410 then markbass std104hf) to 2 smaller Bergantino hd210 ceramics. Although they are fairly heavy for their size they are quite easy to carry because of the excellent recessed side handles and the diagonal placement of the cones avoids dispersion issues that supposedly affects standard square 410 cabs. The only head that ever went into protect mode on a gig was a 500w class d so I am a little sceptical. Never had a problem with class ab with switch mode PSU (markbass lm3, SA450 or TA503 ). All earlier heavier amps from trace elliot, Ampeg, Hartke, Ashdown had headroom for days.

Mark is a lovely man. I bought an amp from Mark and the courier managed to damage it en route. Mark immediately offered to refund me and even collect in person to avoid further problems. You won't meet a more decent Basschatter. It was just a massive shame Parcel Force failed us on this occasion.

If you aren't worried too much about weight I can recommend the Bergantino HT112ER and EX112ER cabs. They are my favourite 112 cabs and as a pair are capable of serious volume and deep bass. There is a pair for sale on here for £650 delivered.

If you are regularly at or close to maximum output with 450w into a 610 speaker configuration you might want to be looking at 800w heads if you are considering class d. My personal experience is that class ab heads have less brutal (for want of a better word) limiting when you get close to maximum output. Peavey, Ampeg and GK make fantastic (by all accounts ) 800w+ class d heads which should suit your music choices. Although not light (at 54lbs each approx half the weight individually of your 410XL ), I can recommend two Bergantino hd210 cabs as small format extremely capable punchy rock set up. Oh, and they have heft💪.

If you can't find any previous selling prices you could advertise it for £300 and see if there is any interest. You then have the option to reduce the price if it doesn't sell down to a price that it will. It's worth what someone is prepared to pay for it.

I used to own both cmd121h and cmd121p combos. Strangely it was only the piezo tweeter that hissed, the compression horn was not a problem at all.

[quote name='yorks5stringer' timestamp='1481056287' post='3189407'] Quite true, in fact I have a 121NYC with said horn...! [/quote] P = Piezo, H = Horn. The NY121P cab has the Piezo tweeter whilst the TRV121H has a Horn. Both cabs have adjustable attenuators. The piezo is very hissy which is why a lot of CMD121P combo owners are frustrated by the combo's lack of attenuator.

As far as I know it's only the piezo tweeter in the cmd121p combo that people disconnect. The 12" traveller cabs have a higher quality horn with an adjustable attenuator so you can just dial it to off if you want.

[quote name='psb_87' timestamp='1479894084' post='3180034'] Hi julesb, I'm about to do the same thing in my LMiii head, and I'm going to use exactly the same fan as you. I just wanted to ask, did you use the little voltage adapter cable with the resistor or did you just connect it at full voltage? Have you had any problems with overheating or cutting out since doing it? Thanks in advance! [/quote] You should check that the replacement fan specifications are the same or better than the original. It's when you're playing at high volume in a hot venue you will need the maximum air flow / pressure from the fan. Assuming both fans are brushless and capable of running at variable speeds dependent upon the amps cooling requirement, lower noise might be because of lower airflow. If you have an older class AB LM3 it will need all the cooling it can get under those conditions. Mine gets pretty warm and I would be very careful about replacing the fan.