4 Strings

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1351483689' post='1851665'] I have four Basses. I have a 5 string for standard tuning and a 4 string for Eb. I also have a second 5 string in standard and a second 4 string in Eb. Those second Basses are "back-up" Basses... I also have a full, 500W rig with a 4x10 and a 1x15, and a 500W PA rig... I haven't played live in over 18 years, infact not since before I met my wife... I mentioned to my wife that I'd kind of like to sell one of the back-up basses and she was actually disappointed. [/quote] Maybe she wants you to get out there and play!

[quote name='Ed_S' timestamp='1351376636' post='1850721'] According to the data sheet WD40 out of the can is mostly white spirit so whilst it's probably fine for the strings, depending on the finish and consruction, I wouldn't have thought a good rub down with thinners would be all that much good for the bass. Maybe I'm wrong, but I wouldn't do it to my gear. Once the spirit has evaporated, it's basically just light mineral oil, so why not just use fast fret? [/quote] "The main ingredients in fast fret is white mineral oil.." http://www.epinions.com/review/Ghs_Fast_Fret_String_Cleaner/content_597182811780?sb=1 (but then the writer notes being made in the US as its main attraction, so maybe the source isn't so reliable!)

[quote name='Ed_S' timestamp='1351353839' post='1850487'] I use Fret Doctor too - it's great stuff, isn't it! To those who use slightly more left-field products (Pledge, WD40, GT85, Trex etc.) would you disclose that in a for-sale thread? If I received a bass that somebody had routinely sprayed with WD40, I'd go absolutely postal; specifically straight back to the sender [/quote] Why?

[quote name='Kiwi' timestamp='1351364248' post='1850612'] I've recently come into a significant quantity of crab apple from a 100 year old tree that was blown over in a recent storm. At some point I'll be using it in a bass if I can get it to dry slower. I've got enough for a body core and loads of tops. Research suggests it might be like mahogany but a little brighter. [/quote] You can only tell if it is brighter if you can tell if it is brighter. To make a bass (or basses) from that tree would be a fantastic thing to do! Please accept all encouragement to do so! Why not get in touch with harleyheath and the like to offer advice etc (I'm sure you'll know what to do.)

'Tis true, they tried a different Mini (the Clubman) and went back to the original. The Citroen Dyane was to replace the 2CV but didn't last. Classic designs are timeless, consider the Eames office chairs, Dualit toasters, Crombie coats, even the old style Vespa scooter has reappeared. The original Fender designs have and will continue to live beyond their 'replacements'.

[quote name='EssentialTension' timestamp='1351200693' post='1848747'] Yes, proper tonewoods for the true Danelectro sound. [/quote] But most people have said they sound cool! Is it the pickups or 'tonewood'? What's the difference between plywood and multi-layers of 'tonewood'?

What's so bad? Does it fall apart?

[quote name='voxpop' timestamp='1351269942' post='1849572'] It sound great, just like the old Audiolab from 15 years ago. It's very punchy with strong drive and good quality bass. Highly recommended. [/quote] Yep, recommendation here too. Built to last (I understand some people just leave them 'on'), fab sound, plenty of power, s/h can be had for just over £100. And British!

[quote name='MiltyG565' timestamp='1351271567' post='1849594'] i think aerodynes sound great. although i generally don't agree with basswood bodies. [/quote] What have they done to you?

[quote name='MiltyG565' timestamp='1351235269' post='1848936'] you want to lubricate the strings? ....FAST FRET! I use fast fret for all my strings, all my fretboards, all my necks, all my bodies and all my hardware. fecking lovely stuff. [/quote] Sounds like it can be used as shower gel!

[quote name='neepheid' timestamp='1351242746' post='1849065'] Take that, eyeballs! Ha! [/quote] Aaagh!! It burns!!

Bass face and chewing gum dance - very wriggly! Great fun yes, thanks for that. All on a Squier too!

To bow to some advertising lingo, is Mark a little like Marmite? I've kind of grown up on him, certainly my 80s playing was highly influenced by him and Its always been anathema to me that I've been playing longer than him! I think he can be considered a genius in much the same way as Jamerson has been (and as much as I love JJ, I think genius is stretching it a bit). However, I find I can listen to Jamerson longer, or at least that style. Mark King is not to be underrated, he's certainly suffered from the 'one trick' criticism by people who, perhaps don't know all his playing/writing/singing.

[quote name='thebrig' timestamp='1350996725' post='1845974'] Ok guys, I should be getting my [b][i]Barefaced Super Twelve[/i][/b] tomorrow after a ten week wait. My brand new [b][i]Genz Benz Streamliner 900[/i][/b] has been sitting at home, waiting patiently for seven weeks, to be coupled up with it's new partner. I'm hoping it's going to be an orgasmic experience! I think I might start a new thread with my thoughts/review on the new rig, so keep an eye out over the next few days. [/quote] Let's hope its all your expecting - next thread may be entitled 'Underwhelmed!'

[quote name='jezzaboy' timestamp='1351108431' post='1847543'] Epiphone EBO and EB3. I have never played an old Gibson variant but these Epi`s are truly horrid. [/quote] There's quite a little team who don't 'get' these basses. They should all be converted into guitar type SGs.

Years ago I loved to hate Gibson EB0 type basses, well the copies anyway, because I thought they played and sounded so awful. Andy Fraser did much to improve their reputation. Now things are more about image and I love to hate single cut, extreme bottom cut, coffee table joinery with lots of strings. You know the sort of thing. [attachment=121923:Horridbass.jpg] Unfortunately it leads to me prejudging the player too.

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1350986680' post='1845797'] It's not just about strength - it's about stability. A one piece neck can move. Three piece neck means any movements are further minimised because the movement of one piece of wood has to works against the movemnet of another 2. Net result? They generally don't move anywhere near as much as a one piece. As for glued timber, you only have to look at a Gibson headstock break. It breaks once. You tightbond it. Drop your Gibson again, the headstock will tend to break anywhere but where the glue is. [/quote] Thought it was more about resonances and avoiding the Fender 'deadspot'

[quote name='Bilbo' timestamp='1351023754' post='1846428'] I am a bass, guitar and saxophone player. I do one well, one poorly and one extremely badly. You are a bass player as soon as you start playing a bass. You are just a beginner. Ownership is not enough. The clue is in the verb 'play' and the noun 'bass'. If, in your life, you verb the noun. then you are, by default, a noun verber. If the verb is play and the noun bass, you area bass player. You may wish to add a caveat that gives greater detail (good, bad, professional, amateur etc) but you are in the gang! [/quote] I agree. Unless you're american. I was irritated to be asked if I wanted to 'monetize' a video when I put it up on Youtube and participate in their 'monetization' scheme. In which case I'll be involved in the verbization of a noun. Nothing to do with bass playing, just a grump at some grammar!

[quote name='miles'tone' timestamp='1351080438' post='1847009'] Reminds me of that famous James Jamerson quote (a guy who NEVER cleaned his fretboard) - 'the funk is in the gunk' [/quote] Another 'amen' from here too. Unless you're going to leave your bass in the garden it shouldn't need oiling. HOWEVER, the MM necks are unsealed and so DO require a periodical clean and a tiny application of the gunstock wax to seal and stop dirt getting into the grain and to give it its slippy surface. The unsealed maple fingerboards are susceptible to this and don't cleanup with a scrub like rosewood so the lemonoil helps to seal them. Also, if you're unlike Jamerson and want to scrub even your rosewood fretboard clean a little oil (I used to use Mr Sheen on the odd occasion I did this) will help it regain its colour. Apart from this, as I mentioned earlier, it just gives us owners an opportunity to apply some tlc to our bass!

Have a chat with Newtone as they'll give you a 'balanced' set where the tension is the same in all and you can have whatever gauge 'G' you like!

[quote name='countjodius' timestamp='1351030897' post='1846557'] Did the Shuttle make a big difference? Are the berg cabs naturally quite low/low mid heavy (guessing that's where the wool is!)? Interesting how cab choice can make all the difference in getting the tone you want out of an amp (fingers/feel and bass aside of course)- means i better get this right! haha [/quote] I often think of things like this as hi-fi where the source makes a little difference to the overall sound, the amp less so but the speakers vary the sound the most, implying compromises in speaker design will have the greatest effect overall. In hifi you need to work from the front, ie first get the best signal possible, then amplify it the best way then present it to the world best. Or, get the bass sound you want, amplify it in the best way and then present that sound to the world with as little influence from the chain as possible. To get a 'transparent' performance from a cab, ie so it doesn't influence the sound, takes a great deal of effort and care in its design and manufacture. You'll be lucky to get such a performance from a cheap cab which is likely to be full of compromises restricting dynamic, cutting off frequencies, adding colour and breaking up certain frequencies at higher levels. My old Hartke 2.5XL was, I thought, perfect until I discovered how much it influenced the sound, giving it a 'flattering' scooped effect. This discovery was only made when I played through a more transparent sounding cab and it took me quite a while to get used to the sound, which was now a more accurate representation of my bass with me playing it! Its a one way ticket, having played through my lad's 2.5XL recently I realise by changing I have also lost wooliness, boom and some, frankly, unrealistic highs but gained clarity in sound (by this I don't mean undistorted but better definition) and so I won't be gong back! I believe you're going about things the right way, ie (assuming you have the bass you love!) settling on your amp and then looking for the best cab to go with it. I'd still recommend the Hartke, is was great for the money, but really, if you've got more to spend (much more, I'm afraid) I'd give a BF (with a 'T' option) a try. It won't flatter your sound, it will simply present what comes out your amp.

Yep, used to love Rotos at 30, maybe 35 - 90 tops. One problem I found was the 'E' would go sharp easily if hit hard. My old Jaydee was a feather touch to play with these, and easy to bend notes etc. Less fussy now, a few sets of cheap 40s knocked it out of me and the priority now is a warm tone. Just getting used to a set of Newtones, the 38s but would till not go beyond 40s (may stretch to their 42s which have a 96 E but would prefer not to).

Shorter helps, and, for me, to tip the neck upwards helps the writs angle on both hands.

His comments. They are mostly quite dry.

[quote name='Coilte' timestamp='1350814652' post='1843653'] Yes, it may seem like a trivial thing to be concerned about, but over the long term it can be of the utmost importance. It is true, that wearing the bass too high effects the R/H and too low, the L/H. The ideal compromise is to have the main body of the bass at about belt buckle height. [/quote] Too low for me.