goingdownslow

[quote name='MacDaddy' timestamp='1323036939' post='1458630'] I know I'd miss it if it was gone, but it's been over 3 years since it's seen any action. [/quote] Just keep playing with it in your bedroom like a lot of others do.

I like the way it looks like there is no cover on the control cavity, very realistic.

I was in B&Q this morning looking at this [url="http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=9273772&fh_location=//catalog01/en_GB/categories%3C{9372016}/categories%3C{9372050}/categories%3C{9372231}/specificationsProductType=pipe_wrap"]pipe insulation[/url]. This is about 3" diameter. I was wondering if cutting a load of 2" doughnuts and sticking them to a piece of MDF would work

Someone must have left the back open.

I have known people do that, or removing the earth from the plug top to stop hum from earth loops when connecting multiple amps together. Dangerous practice.

[quote] Thumb joint replacement Pics![/quote] I was expecting to see pics of the surgical procedure.

Reply from Larry Hartke [quote] Hey Pete, The Kickback amplifiers are designed to work with the internal 6 ohm speaker for maximum output. The amplfier says 8ohms because we don't want people hooking them up to 4 ohm speakers. I'll check on the nomenclature in the manual etc. but no worries we make thousands of the Kickbacks and they are workhorses and extremely reliable. Enjoy! Larry Hartke / Special Operations Hartke Systems Hartke's 48th Street Bass Lounge [/quote]

Cheers, Yes. had it from new. Have been searching on the web and have found a few references to them (Hartke) using a 6Ω speaker and also that the amp is 120 watts @ 4Ω. Have mailed Hartke support for more info.

I have a Hartke Kickback 15 combo for playing at home. Although I have had it for some years, I have just noticed the speaker output on back of amp says 8Ω minimum but barcode label on port says 6Ω and also a sticker on the speaker says 6Ω. Manual specs say 120 watts @ 8Ω and contains !5" 8Ω speaker. Not sure what to make of it.

Might be late now, but useful to know in future, [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/6.35mm-stereo-long-reach-chassis-socket-223988"]MAPLIN[/url]

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2j2PuNwQTr8[/media]

[quote]I would say they're humbuckers but I really don't know.[/quote] They look like [url="http://www.epiphone.com/elitist/thunderbird.htm"]these.[/url]

As the speakers are wired direct to the jack/speakons (ie. not through any crossover) I would more likely check the wiring to the first/top two speakers as they are the first link in the series parallel chain. I would find it unlikely that all the speakers are shot. The speakers are wired as three series pairs in parallel, so even if one went O/C you would still get the other four working.

Passing the strap under my belt keeps my shortscale EB3s where I want them.

[quote name='jc_riffs' post='1311398' date='Jul 21 2011, 12:16 PM']The head is 475watts at 4ohms so if I run the 410(8ohms) and 115(8ohms) together will that come to 4ohms??? [size=4]YES[/size] How would I run the two cabs parallel when it only has one Nuetriks output?? [size=4]AMP--410HE--115E[/size] Thanks for your help J[/quote]

I have an Epiphone Elite EB3 which feels and plays like my old battered 64 EB3 except for having a more tunable bridge. Although having "made in USA" pickups, the neck pickup is the same weak output as the standard Epi. I swapped it for an original. They stopped making them when the Gibson SG re-issue bass came out. I prefer the Epi. Originally called Elite, they had to change it to Elitist as someone else (Fender?) already had the name, mine bears the early Elite stamp on the back of the neck. [url="http://www.epiphone.com/elitist/eb3.htm"]Epiphone Elitist EB3[/url] They did a nice [url="http://www.epiphone.com/elitist/thunderbird.htm"]Thunderbird[/url] too

All four of them.

[quote name='Prime_BASS' post='1206100' date='Apr 20 2011, 05:01 PM']0 is maximum voltage and 10 is little charge.[/quote] It is the other way round. From the manual [quote]Tube gain. The tube gain control varies the high voltage supply to the power tubes. This allows a variety of tonal response characteristics from the power amp and replaces the limiter found on typical solid state power amps. At "10" the voltage is at maximum, providing a dynamic, highly responsive tone. At "0" the voltage is at minimum, offering a thick ended, more compressed tone. This tone can also be distorted, depending on volume level. In between settings are best for preventing harsh distortion when driving the power amp to its limits. The effect of this control increases from moderate to dramatic as the power amp is driven harder.[/quote]

I can't remember if these cabs have a lamp in to protect the horn, but worth checking it is ok.

I use my Gibson EB3 straight into my Ampeg SVT3, no effects needed. Some of the guys I see with a floor full of pedals would be better spending the money on a decent amp.

These are what I had in the 70s. Still have the EB3 but back to cherry now. These were players. If you look closely you will see the Les Paul Bass has another knob. I rewired it to V-T-V-T, I didn't think the treble and bass Baxendale circuit much good and it was also to be able to split the pickups to separate amps. I was using HiWatts in which I had installed matching trasformers on the inputs. [attachment=73294:GibsonBasses2.jpg]

To stop the dive on my short scale EB3s I pass the strap under my belt.

I also received a tax rebate last week, not for quite as much but I was surprised to see that it was from 2004-2005 and included £20 interest.

This sort of question is often asked, but FLYFISHER'S post above is the best and simplest explanation I have read, and should be easily understood by the person who asks this question.

Speaker cable can also be coaxial. [url="http://www.canford.co.uk/Products/20401/33-250_CANFORD-HPS-CABLE"]Canford HPS Cable[/url]