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3below

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Everything posted by 3below

  1. I will make this brief, there's always someone who has to be unreasonable and do it differently!, why have you done this? We have a "200-year-old harmonic concept" with "four master patterns hidden on the bass fretboard." and you have now undone the hidden bass ninja masonic mastery that we have kept guarded. I do not know how many "gruelling months of trial and error" you undertook to "learn it for free", however giving away "Guild of Master Bass Player" secrets will result in excommunication or worse (have you seen the effects of having your machine heads removed!). Finally I must warn you in no uncertain terms that disclosing the TS "master patterns hidden on the bass fretboard" - I, IIX, V, III and bIII in all keys is strictly forbidden unless authorised by the Grand Master Wizard of the Guild.
  2. Just had rehearsal this morning with full kit. The first gig of new 5 piece prog jazz rock lineup is in two weeks. Corvette fretless > Sansamp RB1> Crown XLS 1502 > Barefaced Dubster. TI flats and just straight in, no effects whatsoever. Result - stonkingly good tone (even though I say it myself).
  3. The wires on the DiMarzio pickup pictured were/are very short, checking the obvious, when you extended the wires you will have covered the joins with heat shrink or insulation tape? If you have a multimeter, check that there is not continuity (or low resistance) between the green wire connections and the ground connections. Next check that the there is continuity between the case solder joins on the blend control and the solid bridge ground wire on the tone control. If there is not continuity, resolder them. If you haven't got a multimeter, look at the ground wire solder joints on the blend pot. Smooth, shiny = good, lumpy, porous, dull gray looking = bad. If the latter, resolder them. When resoldering be bold, let them get sufficiently hot so that the solder flows well - puddles. When I recently fitted Ultra Jazz pickups to my Warwick Corvette (active) I found it more susceptible to noise (e.g. from PC) than the original MEC pickups which have screened cables (where we rehearse is electrically very noisy, it was not just my kit having problems). I eventually fitted some EMGs I had bought many years ago on BC and screened the cavity, including a soldered connection to the cover (not shown). DiMarzio model Js I have in another bass have never shown this issue in the same location. Full metal jacket plus EMGs - "it's not my kit making the noise chaps"
  4. Solder the green Dimarzio wires (both pickups) to the case of the blend control. Solder the red Dimarzio cables to the slots in the blend control where the two thin wires are in the photo. Solder sucker or desolder braid is useful with those connections to prevent solder blob build up One thing to watch for is the position of the wires under the pickup and the two springs. Tape the wires to the sides of the magnets so that the springs do not press against the wires.
  5. Roto TruBass, Labella 760Ns and TI flats on various basses. The Roto TruBass on my (now 42 yr old) EKO BA/4 lasted about 40 years and were still very good in my view. Replaced with some more through BC . Woody, thumpy and a pleasure to play.
  6. An Interesting and useful piece of knowledge
  7. Relative of Mrs 3below, Cliff Crocket was still drumming at 100. At 64 I am 2nd youngest in my prog jazz rock originals band. Enthusiasm abounds, however I would say we have discovered that full day (7 hour) rehearsals are a little demanding.
  8. Following on from @Kitsto, you could donate to your local high school, from my experience (former teacher) instruments and kit are always welcome.
  9. Your last sentence shows you have realised the major part of the solution to q2 , I am trying to gain similar clarity for a thinning out.
  10. Ditto, thanks to my father's efforts Luckily a clean neck detachment and a super repair / setup by Tim Phillips - https://www.timsviolins.co.uk/ Amazingly £90 for the whole job (10 years ago).
  11. Highly under rated basses. Light weight, really well balanced due to long horn design and a very slim playable neck. I put some used EMGs (ex BC) in mine, as per @alexjbassist you would have to spend way more than £100 to get a better bass (I have the usual offenders in the bass cave to make comparisons with).
  12. Embrace and enjoy the lightweight With advancing years lighter basses have become essential.
  13. This, plus the truss rod cover and I admire you for doing the truss rod channel with a chisel. The latter is skill (and persistence) above and beyond my level these days, although recently I do more and more with hand tools - rediscovering woodwork of my youth.
  14. Better condition than mine (which I have owned since 1989), great build quality. Whoever buys will not be disappointed, a p bass on steroids, .
  15. Ditto, if this one was fretless it would have been sold to me by now.
  16. If you can't find a flatwound B that works well at this scale length (and I am still very undecided on flatwound B strings with a 34" 5er - I tolerate my TI flat B string) then you could go flatwounds E -> G and a round wound B. YMMV.
  17. We need a bc community KF-20 I want one.
  18. Cymbal or mic stands are a good starting point. Having tried both, I find the cymbal stand much more sturdy and confidence inspiring. My Clifton EUB has very simple L bracket on the back with a hole in it. 'Peg' from stand fits in the hole, end pin rests on floor and this is pretty solid. At some point I will either make a wooden block that sits between the stand, L bracket and back of bass or fix a block on the endpin which will stop the slight possible rotation of the bass. This image https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5472/30258177395_d1089c7f15_z.jpg taken by @Silvia Bluejay shows a cymbal stand into another Clifton EUB. This one is a better solution than the simple L bracket on mine.
  19. @grayn Great bass , but I am biased. Your account is like reading my own SG bass experience (even down to having an EB2 as first name bass about 50 years ago). Mine had slight neck dive so I fitted Hipshot ultralight tuners which has totally sorted the neck dive. I have also arrived at the one pickup on ten (full) and the other on nine approach. Mine now has additional mojo, the finish (brown) is wearing off at various points from use. One of the big pluses is the light weight which makes long gigs a pleasure.
  20. I now prefer these in stainless: Although they claim to be self tapping I use an appropriate size tap (1st or 2nd tap depending on wood hardness) and thread the hole they are going into. The nut and bolt insertion method is required. Occasionally I have had to CA glue one in as well.
  21. Would be easy enough to get a 'batwing' pickguard and have the neck pickup relocated towards the middle (like some later EB0/3 models) or get the neck pickup rewound to a lower impedance. Where is the brown / walnut colour one? not that I need another bass.
  22. As per @uncle psychosis and @velvetkevorkian a low cost alternative, the Peavey milestone in the for sale section (or there is one on ebay, £70 bin) and some s/h EMGs and you will be good to go. The necks on them seem very good to me and they are light weight. No neck dive due to the body design, an underrated bass imo.
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