ikay

[quote name='Xtof' timestamp='1349732434' post='1829930'] ... and the MIDI and jack inserts... [url="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/191/6jackmidi.jpg/"][/url] [/quote] I'd be interested to know how the MIDI function works, can you provide a bit more info on that: - does it have onboard audio-to-MIDI conversion with MIDI out that can plug directly into a MIDI synth module (eg Proteus 2000)? - or does it just generate separate signals for each string via a 13-pin output which is compatible with Roland guitar syths? - does it use the RMC piezo/Polydrive system or the Graphtec piezo/Hexaphonic system or something else? Thanks

This page from Graphtec lists the overall slot spacing (high string to low string) under each nut type - http://www.graphtech.com/products.html?SubCategoryID=58 It's shown as 'E to E' (6 string guitar default) but they really mean high to low for bass nuts. Measure the overall slot spacing on your Marcus and CIJ (centre of G nut slot to centre of E nut slot) and compare it with this page to see if there's one here that might be a closer match.

Some comments on this subject from talkbass here - http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f38/vintage-jazz-bass-stack-knob-vs-vvt-741038/#post10441608

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f57/bridge-placement-250675/ The 5th post down (from Rodent) might be helpful

Bit of a rare beast ... - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rare-1990-ZETA-Prism-Bass-Powerbridge-Original-Case-/251162429345?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item3a7a7287a1

[quote name='EddyGlee' timestamp='1349539264' post='1827518'] but in all honesty I think it's a daft idea and a waste of money. also, modern tuners are simply better quality IMO too. [/quote] +1 don't do it!

[quote name='omikin' timestamp='1349528659' post='1827389'] Would the main parts of the tuners (the bits that need to go through the headstock) be the right size to fit? [/quote] Not sure. The Fender vintage reissue tuners require an 11/16" diameter hole. Your existing tuners are secured by a threaded collet, you can easily remove one of these to check the diameter of the hole.

The existing closed back tuners on your American Standard P bass have completely different mounting points to the vintage style tuners so you would need to drill extra holes

Not sure if this willl be of any help but here are a few comments on the subject from talkbass: ... there should be a detent washer under the lower knob so it doesnt spin on accident when you raise or lower the volume ... you have to leave a little bit of space in between the two knobs when you tighten them on, or they will catch on each-other when you turn them- causing either a really rough turning action or causing both knobs to turn when you are only trying to turn one. ... it is also easy with stacked knobs to tighten them on slightly crooked, which can result in one knob getting caught on the others while turning.

[quote name='Dingus' timestamp='1349362171' post='1825316'] I 'm pretty sure I remember playing one or two of these in the early nineties and that they were made in Taiwan [/quote] Yes I think you're right about the original series being made in Taiwan. My TRB5 is one of the first series of bolt on ones made in Japan (mid/late 90s). Sorry for any confusion!

The TRB series was introduced in 1989. Details of all the discontinued models can be found here: http://usa.yamaha.com/products/musical-instruments/guitars-basses/el-basses/trb/?mode=series#list=within&mode=paging&tab=product_lineup This includes the original series TRBs as well as some of the more recent models which have also been discontinued. The first series of 'made in Japan' 5-string TRBs was 34" scale, they changed to 35" scale with the series II. I've got a first series Japan TRB5 which is a great bass and IMO much better than the series II, The oriiginal TRBs may have been even better still. Personally I'm not that keen on the current crop of TRBs. The ones I've tried have felt a bit sterile but I'm sure there are some good ones out there.

I use these - http://www.amazon.co.uk/ACS-ER20-Musicians-Earplugs/dp/B000UJ8RHE Not as good as the personally moulded ones but a lot more affordable and better than foam plugs

Thanks for the replies, I think I'll try both, if I can get hold of them!

What's the difference (smoothness / tension / tone) between GHS Pressure Wound flats and GHS Brite Flats or are they pretty much the same?

[quote name='muttley' timestamp='1349099270' post='1821749'] Not all packages get stopped by customs though. The OP was lucky this time. [/quote] Yes the OP was lucky! In addition to 20% VAT and duty the Royal Mail also add an £8 handling fee for everything that goes through their VAT/duty collection process. I've been nobbled by this on fairly small purchases from the USA a couple of times recently so they are watching out for this sort of thing.

[quote name='gub' timestamp='1348242660' post='1811354'] So what causes a dead spot anyway ? [/quote] In short, it's when the frequency of a fretted note coincides with the anti-node (point of maximum amplitude) of the resonant frequency of the neck at the same point. In your case the resonant frequency of the neck seems to be around C# (or close) and the anti-node of this resonance just happens to be in the same place as the 6th fret (C#) on the G string. If that's double dutch to you (it was to me until I read up on it a few years ago) then this article here does a good job of explaining it - [url="http://www.acoustics.org/press/137th/fleischer.html"]http://www.acoustics.../fleischer.html[/url] As 4 strings says above, you will usually feel a strong vibration in the neck when you play a note on a dead spot as most of the energy is sucked into making the neck structure resonate rather than making the string itself vibrate. Another test for a dead spot is to hold the headstock against something really solid like a door post and then play the problem note. When you do this the 'dead' note should ring out full and strong. This is because when you 'couple' the neck to something of much greater mass the resonant frequency changes. As soon ss you move away from the door post you'll feel the neck start vibrating and the note will die again. Dead spots aren't unusual and occur on most stringed instruments. Sometimes they're a bit bothersome and sometimes they're so subtle they're hardly noticeable. But they are usually there to some small degree, whatever people with no dead spots may say! As others have already mentioned, there are various techniques to help minimise or shift dead spots. What you're essentially trying to do is change the resonant frequency of the neck so the resonant anti-node doesn't coincide with a fretted note of the same frequency. Adding mass to the headstock will lower the resonant frequency and reducing mass (eg. a headless bass) will make it higher. A very stiff neck (eg, graphite) has a higher resonant frequency than a regular wooden neck. Different scale lengths also have different resonances (C# or D is a very common resonance for a 34" scale). Changing strings (different load/tension) or tweaking the trussrod can sometimes make a difference. Sometimes not! It's not a precise science. Every bass is different so it's mostly a case of experimenting to see what works.

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1348175761' post='1810584'] Something like these [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RCF-ART-Series-322A-Active-Speaker-PAIR-/130767890891?pt=UK_ConElec_SpeakersPASystems_RL&hash=item1e725fa9cb"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item1e725fa9cb[/url] [/quote] Thanks JTUK, agree with your point about buying quality and this pair of used RCF ART 322-As is definitely worth watching. I'll look into the 310s as well but unfortunately most RCF gear is beyond our budget to buy new.

If you are thinking about the John East pre there's one for sale here - [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/187091-john-east-mmsr-3-band-4-knob-pre-amp-for-mm-stingray/"]http://basschat.co.u...or-mm-stingray/[/url]

I'd expect it to be imperial rather than metric. According to this thread on the EB forum it's 1/8" - [url="http://forums.ernieball.com/music-man-basses/39465-pre-ernie-ball-hex-wrench-size.html"]http://forums.ernieb...rench-size.html[/url]

Thanks Phil, the feedback on the Laney is very useful re poor vocal sound. The Stagepas 300 looks interesting. We're not loud but 8" speakers and 150W a side may be just a bit on the light side. Neat package though, I'll add the 300 and 500 version to my short list.

The body doesn't look to be that deep and it's 34" scale - any reason why any regular gig bag or hardcase wouldn't work?

Thanks Dan, I like the look of the Altos and that's good to hear. We'd also be using them mainly for vocals plus some sax/clarinet and in similar conditions.

Thanks crez5150, these look like definite contenders. May also consider buying used (ideally locally) so if anyone has anything suitable please drop me a pm