ikay

Of course it doesn't have to be sunburst .... here's my nicely aged '72 oly white [attachment=111545:P1010412.jpg] [attachment=111548:P1010420.jpg] [attachment=111549:P1010419.jpg]

The treble control on the BG250 boosts at around 3.1KHz which isn't unusually high and should be clearly audible. Boosting the highs can have a less obvious effect than adjusting bass or mids depending on the bass, strings, playing style etc. Try playing with the treble control and strumming the strings with your nails, you should clearly hear a difference then.

Recently acquired an old double bass and had an introductory lesson with Jake yesterday. Have to admit I'm a bit daunted by the sheer size and physicality of the instrument and my expectations of what I can achieve on DB are, how can I put it, 'modest'! Very informative and enjoyable lesson. I liked Jake's direct approach and it's testament to his ability as a teacher that I now feel encouraged to give it a real try. Thanks Jake, I'll drop you a pm to arrange the next lesson!

[quote name='bremen' timestamp='1339768962' post='1694059'] No way! Cut below 75-100Hz and there won't be any fundamentals left in the bottom octave. 40Hz maybe. [/quote] OK perhaps that's a little high but the range ion the Fishman HPF is 15-125Hz. As a comparison the range of the variable HPF on a Euphonic iAmp is given as 20-80Hz at 6dB/octave so maybe somewhere around 40-50Hz is closer to the mark. Rollling off a little bass can often have a much more beneficial affect on amplified bass sound than many people realise. In the end though it's down to what you're trying to achieve and what sounds right to you.

The HPF on my Fishman Plat Pro EQ sweeps from 15Hz to 125Hz. with a 12dB/octave cut. For a fixed cutoff point I would think somewhere around 75-100Hz is probably in the ballpark so what you have will probably work pretty well for bass.

This site gives descriptions of body, neck and fingerboard woods along with their tonal characteristics which may help: http://www.soundunlimited.co.uk/articles/guitar_tone_woods

This chap in Lincolnshire is recommended on www.vintagehofner.co.uk [url="http://www.haniaguitars.com/about-repairs.htm"]http://www.haniaguit...out-repairs.htm[/url]

Thanks both for the good advice. Makes sense to spend a few days getting used to the strings that are on it but I'll earmark Prestos or Silver slaps and keep my eyes peeled for suitable used strings and a cheap piezo of some sort to give me more options.

Thanks Clarky, I think the p/u is a Krivo. The Presto strings come in medium, light and ultralight, any advice on which of those in your experience? For example, would the Presto mediums be noticeably easier to play than the current Thomastik Superflexibles? I need to feel a real difference so maybe the lights or ultralights would be the way to go. New and mysterious world to me and difficult to know what's what without pestering those who do! Cheers

Thanks Beer of Bass. The pickup looks pretty much identical and mine's also got the velcro bonded onto one side so I think that's it. Yes the strings have aluminium barrel ends with numbers 0, 2, 3, IV on the ends. Any suggestions for a softer feeling steel core string?

Thanks Dave. I'd like someone more over my way around Horsham if possible but was thinking of giving Jake a call.

I've just acquired my first DB and need a few lessons to help get me started. It's going to be a long haul (I'm an old dog, new tricks etc) but what I lack in ability I make up for in enthusiasm. I need to be shown the basics on playing technique and some exercises to start me off. Can anyone recommend a teacher or DB player in the Horsham (or Guildford) area who could help with this? Thanks!

Well it's a mutt, but an honest mutt! Under £300, 1960's German plywood (description from seller below). More faults than you could list probably but bags of character. Decided it was time to give it a go so just something to get me started. [attachment=110146:P1010404.jpg] [attachment=110144:P1010397.jpg] [attachment=110145:P1010398.jpg] Although it does have a relatively easy action for a DB, I have a long way to go in getting my fingers up to strength and thinking that some softer/lower tension strings might help to start with. Current strings not known but are steel and I think medium tension. Can anyone recommend me a steel core string with a softer feel, something that's easier on the fingers for a beginner? Or if anyone has something lying around please let me know (even a softer G/D might help if not a full set). Also, can anyone tell me what type of magnetic pickup this might be? [attachment=110147:P1010406.jpg] Thanks, Ian [i][b]Seller's Description[/b][/i] [i]If you're looking for a big sounding vintage bass, expertly restored look away now... BUT if you're looking for a cheap as chips, quirky double bass perfect for electric bass players moving to double bass then this might be for you. I used for my pupils as a loaner practise bass. Lots of them were coming from electric bass and so I set it up with a very low action and thinned down neck to give it a more bass guitarist's left hand fit. They've all loved it. It plays very well and very, very easily; again great if you're coming from electric bass. Due to a history (before I acquired it) of quick fix internal repairs the sound is not present enough to be really considered for out and out acoustic gigs. Rather, like the EUB's on the market, this bass is only really to be used with a pick up and amp - unlike EUB's this looks a lot cooler. The pick up is included - a magnetic pickup attached to the bridge. It gives a strong signal and sounds fantastic through a p.a or amp. It has an interesting pedigree. The considered view is that it is a 1960's German upright, probably coming from the FRAMUS factory. As plywood as they come, it is very robust and so perfect for an all weather playing outside/damp marquee type gigs. In short she's a mutt but every dog has its day, right?[/i]

Status Empathy?

[size=4]If you're not too fussed by the odd bit sawn off how about this one on ebay[/size] (current bid £20): [attachment=110006:BG.jpg] [size=4]"...[font=Arial]the overall condition in my opinion is an 8/10..."[/font][/size] [size=4]according to the seller![/size]

[quote name='Zenitram' timestamp='1339259571' post='1686049'] Right, but apart from the fact that it's junk and they've sawn a bit off... [/quote] Well apart from that it looks great Who knows, maybe it is a little gem. If it's close to you why don't you pop round and try it out?

Here's another version with audio that plays along with the tab so you can hear it in context: [url="http://www.songsterr.com/a/wsa/yes-starship-trooper-bass-tab-s23538t8"]http://www.songsterr...ss-tab-s23538t8[/url]

Here's an extract from www.guitarelectronics.com (the same applies for bass guitars): [size=4][font=Arial]"Either 250K or 500K pots can be used with any passive pickups however the pot values will affect tone slightly. The rule is: Using higher value pots (500K) will give the guitar a brighter sound and lower value pots (250K) will give the guitar a slightly warmer sound. This is because higher value pots put less of a load on the pickups which prevents treble frequencies from "bleeding" to ground through the pot and being lost. For this reason, guitars with humbuckers like Les Pauls use 500K pots to retain more highs for a slightly brighter tone and guitars with single coils like Stratocasters and Telecasters use 250K pots to add some warmth by slightly reducing the highs. You can also fine tune the sound by changing the pot values regardless of what pot value the guitar originally had.[/font]"[/size] [size=4]Also this from Talkbass, specifically about putting 500k pots in a Precisioon::[/size] [size=4]"[/size]500ks will make for a loud, bright, grindy sound, while 250ks will be more old-school." So I guess it depends what she's after...

[quote name='Kiwi' timestamp='1339046637' post='1682780'] I'd agree with previous posts that pickup position counts for a fair bit. [/quote] FWIW, measured from the nut, the centreline of a Jazz bridge pickup (60s position) is 80cm and the centreline of the bridge coil of the MM is 79cm. Coil tapping the MM should be pretty close in terms of position but the bigger magnets and windings will also affect the resonant peak and tone.

I also think it looks like a Highway One. The Fender logo is right for a Highway and you can just see the top of the trussrod adjuster in the headstock shot which is right for an older model (new Highways have the adjuster at the heel end like a regular MIA).

Hiscox locks use a simple generic type key (pic of mine below). If they can't send you a replacement it shouldn't be too hard to make something that will unlock it. [attachment=109625:P1010395.JPG]

Lighter gauge strings are good for a more expressive tone on fretless. Heavier gauge for more thump and less mwah. Setup is also a critical factor in generating the tone you're looking for, much more so on a fretless than a fretted IMO. I'm no expert, just learning as I go by trying things out and finding what suits me. Be interesting to see what the fretless gurus of BC have to say!

Status halfwounds have a nice smooth feel and sound good to me, brighter than flats but less zingy than rounds. They do mellow with age but should last longer than rounds and will be much kinder to your fingerboard. Reasonably priced too so worth giving them a go. Trimming long scale strings to fit generally isn't a good idea, particularly for the lower A and E where you really need the taper to wind round the post.

This vid on YT shows an Eminence neck being removed and re-installed. You can see the neck joint about 1 minute in - [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O5QkD7CUNLs[/media] And here's a Kolstein Busetto neck being removed. Good view of neck joint about 3 mins in - [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JN_5Flm5yiI[/media] Interesting project!