ikay

An old post about them here - http://basschat.co.uk/topic/123801-ruach-basses/

Extract below is from this website - http://www.pantheonguitars.com/tonewoods.htm [font="Arial"][b]Fretboards and Bridges[/b] Players of electric guitars with bolt-on necks have long been hip to the fact that neck and fretboard materials can have a significant bearing on tone. Maple necks can impart a bright, poppy tone that can do much to reinforce the top end of a large-bodied guitar, while mahogany necks help push the overall palette into a warmer, more woody tonal range. Fretboard materials also exert an influence on overall tone, although they probably act more as icing on the cake than as a layer of the cake itself. Brazilian rosewood fretboards and their denser rainforrest counterparts add sparkle and ring, and Indian rosewood fretboards can help fatten up the midrange. Wenge, a dense, dark-colored African hardwood unrelated to the rosewoods, has tonal properties remarkably similar to those of Brazilian rosewood. Ebony, the traditional fingerboard material found on violins, classical guitars, and high-end steel strings, has the lowest velocity of sound of all the woods commonly used in lutherie and has definite damping characteristics. This may not prove to be much of a problem for large-bodied guitars made out of red spruce or Brazilian rosewood, but it may be something to consider when designing smaller guitars, particularly those using some of the less resonant woods for tops and backs. [b]Bridge materials, like fretboards, cannot make or break an instrument, but they serve to enhance or edit the tonal contributions of other materials found on the guitar. The woods discussed above-ebony, Brazilian rosewood, and Indian rosewood-contribute similar tonal qualities when they are used as bridge materials as when they are used for fretboards.[/b][/font]

Some comments on flats for Stingrays - [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f16/stingray-flats-586719/"]http://www.talkbass....y-flats-586719/[/url] YouTube vid demoing Galli, Chromes and LaBella flats on a Stingray - [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUB4N3HpwB8[/media] YouTube vid comparing D'Addario rounds and flats on a Stingray - [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VA_KrCDjbV4[/media] Status half-wound strings are also worth a try, very similar feel to flats, slightly brighter to start with but play in very nicely.

Magnetic strength of polepieces is generally even across the pickup. Individual polepieces can sometimes weaken over time but getting them remagnetized is a simple job for a repair shop. Or you can get a set of DIY repair magnets from StewMac like this: - http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Clamps,_support_tools/Guitar_Repair_Magnet_Kit.html Instructions on how to do this are towards the bottom of this page: - http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/Electronics/Pickup_building/i-5967.html

I don't own a 424 or 1024 so can't compare in the flesh but the pickup mountings look very similar to me. [attachment=125794:Yamaha 424 + 1024.jpg] I reckon it's a reasonable bet that they'd be a straight swap. The two halves of the pickup will be separate (to allow separate adjustment). The 424 bridge has a 5 screw mounting and the 1024 looks to have a 3 screw mounting so that may involve some drilling and positioning.

Technical blurb from Audere here: - [url="http://www.audereaudio.com/TechDetails.htm"]http://www.audereaud...TechDetails.htm[/url] A passive varitone control does something similar using a stepped tone control with different value capacitors: - [url="http://www.certainbass.com/varitone.html"]http://www.certainba...m/varitone.html[/url] - [url="http://www.seymourduncan.com/tonefiend/guitar/a-modern-vari-tone-alternative/"]http://www.seymourdu...ne-alternative/[/url] I have an Audere in my JO4. Great little preamp IMHO and the z-mode adds real body to the sound. Yes it can be addictive! But I love the punch and clarity of a jazz so tend to use it on the 'standard' z-setting most of the time.

There was a bound version on ebay UK not so long ago - can't find the original listing but I think this was it - http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/ibanez-artist-bass-1976-276355996

Here are a few links with pics - nice looking bass: [url="http://flatericbassandguitar.blogspot.co.uk/2010/09/ibanez-old-and-new.html"]http://flatericbassa...ld-and-new.html[/url] (see fourth pic down) [url="http://www.ebay.com/itm/1977-Ibanez-Artist-Bass-Guitar-2620b-Made-Japan-Rare-/280884276438"]http://www.ebay.com/...e-/280884276438[/url] [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f126/fs-feeler-very-rare-vintage-1977-ibanez-artist-878745/"]http://www.talkbass....-artist-878745/[/url]

Here's an eq chart for the 3-band SR preamp [attachment=125488:Stingray5-EQchart.jpg] This link may also be of interest - [url="http://forums.ernieball.com/music-man-basses/42214-stingray-sound-examples.html"]http://forums.ernieb...d-examples.html[/url] It gives a detailed comparison of various Stingray eq settings along with sound samples for several; different SR models

This link might be worth a look - http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f38/music-man-sound-pickups-739218/

[quote name='apa' timestamp='1355913205' post='1904236'] Placing the twin Jazz in the MM position is OK but would one ofn them still be in the Jazz position!!!! [/quote] Not quite. As stoker says, the stingray pup position falls between the 2 J pups. See measurements below for comparison. These are measured from the centre of the 12th fret to the centre of the polepieces in mm. MM Stringray 5 - 332 neck coil / 356 bridge coil Fender Jazz (60s spacing) - 277 neck / 367 bridge Fender Jazz (70s spacing) - 277 neck / 377 bridge Fender Precision - 281 G D coil / 309 A E coil

Some comments here to get you started: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/151628-what-gauge-strings-do-you-use/"]- http://basschat.co.u...ngs-do-you-use/[/url] [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/82233-different-sounds-from-different-gauges/"]- http://basschat.co.u...fferent-gauges/[/url]

See this post on Talkbass - http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f18/calling-all-yamaha-trb-owners-will-fit-585529/ I think these are the ones - http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tuners/Bass_tuners/Individual_Gotoh_Compact_Bass_Tuner.html

The TalkBass link doesn't answer the specific question on modding the cap values but does discuss the function of the bright switch so may be of interest. - http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f15/trace-elliot-v-type-tube-preamp-question-201756/

[quote name='neepheid' timestamp='1354799998' post='1890505'] Jedson? [/quote] +1 looks like a Jedson tele bass - [url="http://www.pbase.com/merlenmeyer/jedson_bass"]http://www.pbase.com/merlenmeyer/jedson_bass[/url]

Try contacting Yamaha UK technical support and ask if they can supply you with a replacement tuner - Tel 0844 811 1116 (Mon-Fri 9am to 5pm)

Somewhere that can do live recordings of a 6-piece local covers band for a demo. Looking for an engineer wiith an ear for the jazzy/bluesy end of the spectrum rather than rock/metal and who can get a good 'live' studio sound. Some overdubbing and cleanup likely but will keep this to a minimum. Can anyone recommend anywhere?

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1353574687' post='1876113'] The 'View new content' button is the way... hit that, and you're presented with all the new posts on a shiny plate. :-) [/quote] Hmm, thanks I'd missed that button. All the new posts are jumbled up together though. Would be nice to be able to filter this by forum, although I guess that would be the same as visiting the individual forums! I just found the 'last post date/time' marker on the old forum homepage a useful way of quickly scanning which forums had new posts since I last looked.

Ped, on the 'forums' home page it used to indicate the date/time of the last post against each forum. Now it just indicates the number of topics and replies. The last post date was useful as a quick way of scanning which forums had been updated since you last looked. Any chance of resurrecting this? Or maybe I'm the only person who found it useful, in which case please ignore!

String tensions for Thomastik flats (and rounds) are listed here if that's of any interest - http://www.thomastik-infeld.com/guitars/levels/products/stringfamilies/out/jeb.htm

Could be a twisted string. B strings are more prone to this than the other strings as they're usually a pretty tight fit at the bridge and can easily develop a slight twist when installing. Try this - loosen the string until the ball end at the bridge is free to move (wiggle it a bit if necessary). If it's twisted then it should untwist itself. Then retune and see if any improvement. When installing new strings try and make sure the ball end at the bridge isn't bnding and is free to move and find it's own natural (untwisted) position before tuning to pitch.

5ers are generally designed for a low B (BEADG) but will usually be capable of being strung with a high C instead (EADGC)

[quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1353174981' post='1872459'] Loads of Godin guitars on the website [/quote] I can see loads of Godin guitars but no basses (or maybe I'm not searching the site correctly)

[quote name='Dingus' timestamp='1353173319' post='1872429'] ... the outer strings in effect recieve less relief from the truss rod ... [/quote] Now you mention it I guess they do (although I hadn't thought of it like that!). It's all to do with the outer strings not running parallel to the centreline of the neck. When the strings are splayed out in this way, the radius of curvature of the neck in effect creates a 'bump' that the string has to pass over. Take something with a really tight radius such as a broom handle for example. Pin a string at one end (the 'nut') and then again at an imaginary bridge further down. Providing the string runs parallel to the centreline of the handle the action can go as low as you like. Move the 'bridge' end of the string slightly to one side though and the string will quickly bottom out as it passes over the 'hump' created by the curavture of the handle. Of course, if the board is completely flat the action can go as low as you like and you don't have to worry about any of this. Just one reason to buy an ACG!