BassBunny

Loving Sharay Reed's tone on this Cory Henry and Funk Apostles track.

Jeez what a stinky poo week. Found out yesterday our keyboard player passed on Monday. Known and played with him for over 50 years and now Martin. Done a good few deals, both ways, and what a character. Always got a text on NYE with a good dose of his humour about last/next year. I think it's going to be a very alcohol weekend and it better not come in threes.

Your translation of Duncan colours to Delano is correct. Unless you have a Duncan pickup as well, just forget about the Duncan colours as I think it is confusing. What really matters matters is which is the "Hot" wire. Which is "Ground" and which 2 to connect together which you now have for the Delano. I must admit I would put a series/single/parallel switch in as per the Delano wiring to give you flexibility. If you don't like the sound with the coils wired in series, it's a rewiring job rather than the flick of a switch

Brown - ground Green - Hot to pre-amp Yellow/White - connect together All wiring diagrams for Delano pickups and electronics are on the Delano website including switching options.

Either solution, the splitter cable or the splitter box, give the same solution. It connects both cabs in parallel, so a 4 ohm load presented to the amp. Exactly like going amp-cab-cab. Only difference is you need three cables with the box solution. The splitter cable does it all with 1 cable.

Or get a "Y/Splitter" cable likey so. Plenty around if you Google https://www.terralec.co.uk/speaker_leads_/speakon_splitter_cable/33972_p.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_term=paid&utm_campaign=ProductAds&gclid=CjwKCAjw3_KIBhA2EiwAaAAlig5m8qCeX-XV0Xa7j4Eicbx92qf8DiMewkmhu9WjfaK4dqrXTWDVXBoCyx0QAvD_BwE

I'm not desperate Phil, but like you have time on my hands as currently gigless. I wouldn't have a clue how to start designing a cab but am OK following a "plan" and could probably get a start that I would be more than happy to share.

I'm in, particularly if vertically aligned.

Exactly.

Or the staff?

I've got a Carvin BB75, the one in my profile picture. Well actually it's a BB75 body with a Marleaux neck, but that's a whole other story. The bass that I will never, ever part with.

As was the Carvin version.

Agree with @lownote. Here are their charges. £35 to diagnose the problem, which you get back if you go ahead. £69 fixed labour, £18 courier fee to send it back + parts. I am pretty sure they don't repair to component level, so it'll be the cost of the relevant PCB All prices are + VAT and the final cost is likely to be £200+

I did compare the pot locations on the Nanyo with the Artec one and they appear to be the same.

Interesting. One of my Nanyos had the same pre-amp as yours and a similar problem also on the bass pot. It had an audible "click" when it reached the end of its travel and it affected the tone as well. I did try and source a replacement pot but getting one with the correct dimensions proved tricky. Although the pots are PCB mounted there is a brass spacer that slides over the threaded collar of the pots acting as a spacer. Then secured by the nuts on the front of the bass. I gave up in the end and as I'd already swapped out the pre-amps in my other 2 basses, went the whole hog and changed it. Whilst searching for a possible 2nd hand replacement, this pre amp also seems to be fitted to Tune Maniacs, I discovered an Artec one that appears to be exactly the same size and fit. An Artec BE2. http://artecsound.com/pickups/electronics/be2.html

Just use a UK cable and you're good to go. I had a US supplied RH450 they will work all over the world.

"Anyway, on to my issues - any advice greatly appreciated! - I have a long-standing ongoing issue with a low buzz coming through the amp - I've tried other basses and leads, so deduction is it is the bass. Does anyone else have this issue? - the jack socket is a pain being at the angle into the body. I've had this replaced twice, as the angle of the cable keeps tugging at it and damaging the contacts. I always play with a strap, and loop the cable through that to try and reduce the strain which does help. - my big one is a roadblock at the moment. All of the pots are soldered directly onto the PCB, and my bass pot has started clicking/grating when turned either up or down. I'm guessing its a case of a full rewire, as I've been told that pickups used in actives are usually quite thin sounding." I've got 3 SGC Nanyo 5 strings and they have all been quiet. I have, however, now changed all the pre-amps. Mainly because I think this is the weak point in the basses and I wanted the option of Active/Passive switching. They all had different pre-amps initially but they are a 30+ year old design and electronics have come a long way in that time. I've certain not experienced the pickups being "thin" sounding and they are not active pickups. The "active" part is the pre-amp and the pickups are normal high impedance type as fitted to most basses. I agree with @Matt P's comment about the quality of the jack socket. All of mine have had a problem with loose fit and crackling at one time or another, so they have been changed for Neutrik ones and have been rock solid ever since.

Hahaha.

I'm with @ituon this. If doing it yourself photographing what goes where is a must. As far as I know Real do not repair to component level, they just swap PCB's, so if you're not confident unsoldering/soldering, you should be able to source a new board and swap it yourself. At least that saves the 2 way postage, Labour and VAT.

Ashdown Rootmaster?

Here you go. I found an actual Warwick diagram of how they install a passive tone but it uses 2 pats so I have added the circuit you need to make it a single control for both pickups. Hope it makes sense. I believe you can actually buy the East version direct from John. It comes complete with the dual pot, capacitors and the wires so you just need to solder to your blend pot.

Yes, that's exactly what the East etc. pre-amps do. You use a pot similar to a blend pot. You are effectively creating 2 circuits, one for each pickup.

Don't see any reason why you can't wire a passive tone control . The ones I am aware of, East/ACG/Sadowsky, just use the same circuit Fender use for P Bass/ J Bass wired across the input to the pre-amp. If you have a 2 pickup installation, you'll need a dual pot as it needs a circuit for each pickup. I am not familiar with the MEC pre-amp and if it has screw connections. All the ones I am familiar with do, so it's a very simple retro fit. I'll try and sort a simple diagram out.

Ashdown usually quote RMS figures. No doubt someone will be along soon to confirm. That said the Original 300bis bloody loud. @Ashdown Engineering

There's a post on here about changing the original piezo tweeter on a CMD121P for a much better one. Total cost about £10-15 and the result was a massive improvement. Do a quick search.