Sibob

[quote name='Johnny Wishbone' timestamp='1490776450' post='3267792'] Was starting to look like this was on the cards - his site's been down for ages. My go-to ebay seller has jacked it in recently as well. Bugger! [/quote] Steve has basically said he's retiring after some ill health unfortunately. He has mentioned that he'll be selling off stock in bulk at sale prices though. I've asked him to let me know when that is, so I'll post the details of that sale when it's happening. Could be some bargains for peoples projects Si

I won't suggest an Interface, as I have a horse in that race (plenty of others will be along for those suggestions). However, if easy drum 'programming' is something you're interested in to start off, then I would look at Logic X as your DAW. The Logic drummer feature is really great for demos/ideas and super easy to use, sounds good too. Check out some videos on Youtube on Logic Drummer etc. Si

I used to get all my stuff from Doctor Tweek: [url="http://doctortweek.co.uk/epages/f6b73913-c261-421c-ad34-915e1cccc9ce.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=Categories"]http://doctortweek.c...Path=Categories[/url] Although looks like the site isn't open yet (see the message on his site), I'll see if I can see what the deal is. Really nice guy and a great selection. I'd also use Banzai in Germany for the more esoteric parts, only really works for larger orders though. But yeah, lots of little suppliers popping up now, which is great. Si Edit: Unfortunately he's not trading anymore

Yeah my two SB355s (the soapbar 5 strings) both had brass nuts as standard/from new. Si

I sold a bass to Phil a couple of years ago, lovely guy! Watched him around a year later playing in a completely live play-through of Tubular Bells, he played it from memory whereas everyone else was reading it. Very cool Si

[quote name='geoham' timestamp='1489146840' post='3254721'] Thanks for this, very interesting! I've been considering changing the preamp in my own 5501 to something where I could change the mid-frequency. Other than that (which is really a minor annoyance!), I love the bass as it is. One thing I'm hoping you can clarify - how I understood things worked was that the push/pull pot could be used to bypass the EQ (effectively setting it flat) - but I didn't think this was going entirely passive. Have I got this wrong? How did you set the EQ for the 'Active' recordings? Thanks, [/quote] Hi, The Volume control push/pull is indeed a change from active to completely passive, taking the preamp out of the equation. The EQ on both the 'before' and 'after' recordings is set flat, that's to say, all the EQ controls were set to their centre-detent. Cheers Si

[quote name='Woodinblack' timestamp='1490608247' post='3266288'] Yes, although I had assistance from someone with the artwork. There is a guy who runs a site called paisley power who does paisley artwork, and the background with the rats is one of his designs. He sent me the master design for it as I want to put it on a bass, so I used that as a base, did the writing on it, the. Sprayed the case (about 10 times!) and did a water slide for the black. Just wanted to get experience painting before I did a bass. Considering I have no talent doing that I think it came out well [/quote] Yeah really cool, will have to check him out for my Guma Drive artwork perhaps Si

[quote name='skej21' timestamp='1490607959' post='3266283'] Wow, that's pretty cool! You ever tried to contact Janek Gwizdala about his? I imagine he has some pretty early examples in his collection! [/quote] Yeah, tried a little while ago, but failed. Definitely on a mission again though, so will try again Si

[quote name='Roland Rock' timestamp='1490522415' post='3265621'] Thanks for the interest. I can't remember whether the label was missing; I wouldn't have taken it off unless it was hanging off in a vexing manner. I looked up the original thread and it was described as "early 80's" - the assumption that it was Japanese was mine. Spotted "Japan" on the power socket: [/quote] Interesting, I think I'd probably assume at this point that it's Japanese, as you say, due to the power socket. However, Taiwan labeled pedals have been known to contain Japanese PCBs, and so it may be an older Japanese part in a Taiwan pedal. Even if that's the case, it would certainly make it a transition pedal I've marked it on the 'Lost serials' part of the database Cheers for embracing the geek in me haha Si

[quote name='leroybasslines' timestamp='1490603797' post='3266218'] I'd love to contribute to this glorious celebration of geekery. It's a beautiful thing... Made in Taiwan, serial no. EH13419, February 1995. It currently resides in Bristol. My OCT1 knob is missing though...don't suppose anyone's got a spare one?! [/quote] Thanks, added! [quote name='skej21' timestamp='1490604283' post='3266226'] Yup, it's currently sat happily in my signal chain. Thanks again! [/quote] Yours is actually already registered on the database as I think it used to belong to Wooks of these parts?! If you weren't aware, yours is the earliest one I've seen, April 1982, one month older than my earliest Octaver Si

Add the Wren & Cuff 'Phat Phuk B' & Solid Gold 'Beta' to your listening tests Si

Interesting, how did they qualify it as being Japanese? I.e. Did you take the bottom label off or did they? If you did, what colour was it? Silver is always Taiwan, black could be Japanese or Taiwan. Could you do a photo of the PCB? (Ie the baseplate removed?!) Si

[quote name='funkyspuke' timestamp='1490349443' post='3264455'] Can't say I've ever noticed it and I've tried many of their basses and picked up my second Alpher last week! [/quote] Cool cool, still yet to try one, very interested to do so, Kev's sounds huge! Si

[quote name='Wooks79' timestamp='1490289393' post='3264015'] I've shifted my earliest one on now, someone else is enjoying it [/quote] Yeah I've tweaked the format so there are no owners (impossible to keep track of that right!!). Now it's just 'location when listed' Si

Thought I'd revisit this as it's been a while, anyone new want to add there's purely for geek reasons? See the first post in the thread for all relevant links & info! Si

Just our of interest, why didn't you go for a Lull P4 (their simply/passive Precision)? Just fancied a change? Si

[quote name='Marc S' timestamp='1490271147' post='3263769'] As others say, there are differences - sometimes subtle, sometimes rather more noticeable. It will of course, depend on what you perceive as "better" too. Here's a link to a video comparing a Squier Classic Vibe P bass, with a 70's Fender P [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-BBsRugtw6I"]https://www.youtube....h?v=-BBsRugtw6I[/url] There's another batch of videos somewhere on youtube, where players were blindfolded and asked to choose between a Squier CV, a US Fender and a Custom Shop US Fender. Mostly, players thought the Squier was either the US or Custom.... [/quote] I can absolutely tell the difference between the Squire and the '75 here. Is one better than the other? No, they're simply different, the '75 had a bit more depth, bit more low end to my ears. Is someone going to hear the difference at a gig....through a PA....behind a band? Probably not. Really it depends which plays best in your hands. Those Classic Vibes are generally fantastic though. Si

Out of interest, how do you find the neck-heel? I always thought it looks quite restrictive, big 'ol 'speedbump' for your thumb at somewhere around the 12th-14th fret? Looks great though! Cheers Si

I'd also give another vote for a Lakland Skyline Bob Glaub (also known as the 44-64). Skylines vary in weight a little more than their US built counterparts, but find a good one and they're excellent! I have two (a DJ4 & and 55-01), and very impressed with them. The Bass Gallery currently has a 44-64 Skyline in stock I think, as does Guitar Guitar in a few of its stores. Si

I've had a Guma-drive arrive too, don't know when I'll get a chance to build it though....rainy day project Si

These guys also do some nice stuff, similar to Limelight I think, but some interesting options like chambered bodies etc. Scott Devine has a Precision of theirs I believe: http://www.rocknrollrelics.net/project/vicious-model Si

[quote name='Bridgehouse' timestamp='1490197502' post='3263159'] Your '71 may well be a B - The B became standard in '73 (IIRC) but B necks would have been available before then.. [/quote] I see what you mean, makes sense Si

Interested in the dates you cited earlier, my '71 Precision definitely has a B neck as opposed to a C. In any case, it's not quite a 'cheap' alternative, but the '63 American Vintage fits the bill (if you're looking for it to 'be a Fender'), plus likely to be quite similar to your '64: [url="http://shop.fender.com/en-GB/electric-basses/precision-bass/american-vintage-%2763-precision-bass/0191010800.html#prefn1=refinement-body-shape&prefn2=series&prefv1=Precision+Bass&prefv2=American+Vintage&cgidx=electric-basses&start=1"]http://shop.fender.c...-basses&start=1[/url] If not, another vote for an appropriately spec'd JV Squier Si

It's a great place to start, or take a look at the Fuzzdog kit offerings, there's a LOT on there, but each kit has a full walkthrough etc. Their Muff gives you all the options to build whatever era of Muff you want (it's just component changes really), although I'd stick with a Green Muff if it's for bass: http://shop.pedalparts.co.uk/Big_Muff_Pi/p847124_6674585.aspx The thing with DIY stuff is that you can build something, and then be like "oh what if I add cheeky clean blend....and some oscillation....and a mids control", there's a LOT of mods for a muff. I'd say for the music you're citing, a straight green muff will be fine though....you can always build more Si

[quote name='crompers' timestamp='1490189296' post='3263024'] Has anyone attempted one of these big muff kits? [url="https://www.musikding.de/Der-Muff-Green-Russian-Distortion-kit"]https://www.musikdin...-Distortion-kit[/url] wondering what it sounds like and how difficult it was to construct? [/quote] They say it's a Green Muff, so I would assume it sounds approximately like the old EHX Green Tall Font Muffs. There's nothing particularly difficult about a Muff build, but they have a relatively high component count (compared to something like a Fuzz Face), so if a longer build = a little more difficult......then perhaps a 'medium' difficulty?! Really depends on how at home you are with a soldering iron and small fiddly parts. I've not built one of these, but I have built a GGG (General Guitar Gadgets) Green Muff and it sounds great. Largely these DIY kits are just their own PCB layout, but using the same old schematic and component values that everyone else uses, so unless others are modding theirs during the build phase (quite normal to use different values to get different sounds), they'll all sound much of a much. Si