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AJ567

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Everything posted by AJ567

  1. Assuming nothing is faulty, this sounds like a grounding issue, which ought to be solved by a properly isolated power supply. Bi-amping and combining analogue/digital pedals are both prime candidates for throwing up grounding problems! NB Could also be a dodgy patch cable... Are you 100% sure they are all good? One dodgy cable anywhere in the chain might cause grounding issues like this. The bad cable is not necessarily connected to the "problem" pedal. A cable tester is worth its weight in gold to put your mind at ease here - a cable with a tiny short to ground can wreak havoc while not obviously sounding wrong when used by itself. This one is cheap and cheerful: https://www.thomann.de/gb/millenium_mct10.htm While we're at it, highly recommend this for a great quality power supply. Why pay more? https://www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_powerplant_iso_1ac_pro_modular.htm
  2. I've had exactly this issue before. It's an impedance thing. Occurs when a drive goes into a wah, specifically the drive has a relatively high output impedance and the wah is quite resonant. The only solution that worked for me was to put a high quality buffer (or a buffered pedal) before the wah.
  3. Easiest solution is probably to use any universal IEM (Shure 535 or whatever) and use a simple silicone mushroom-type tip. They give an decent seal but aren't very isolating... Which might be just what you are looking for!
  4. I think the 12V "link" output is intended to power one of the smaller ISO series supplies in piggyback fashion. Those run off 12v centre negative so that must be what this outlet is providing. No reason why you couldn't use that for another pedal instead. These Harley Benton power supplies really are excellent!
  5. Personally I'd not take the risk and get one of the Harley Benton "ISO" series instead. They're really great and not much more expensive.
  6. You could put it on a Joyo ZGP which is cheap and cheerful alternative. Or, if you have two gigrig isolated outs spare you could bridge them with a current doubler cable/adapter.
  7. Great rechargeable power supply here. Puts out either 9v or 12v centre negative with the supplied cable (button on the side selects the voltage). 20,000mAh capacity. It is rated for 2A maximum current draw, but I have found that the voltage tends to sag if you push it above about 1.2A. Think of it as a 1A supply to be on the safe side. And if you draw the full 1A, you will still get at the very least 6 hours battery life in a real world gig situation. I've tested this on many gigs. LCD display tells you the charge level in %, which is handy. Only 15mm thick which makes if great for fitting under pedalboards. Full dimensions are 167mm x 112mm x 15mm. Comes with charger and pouch. £40 posted!
  8. Looks like the new adapter has midi thru! So @fretmeister just needs two of them. Perfect solution. https://www.instagram.com/p/CgfSvWXAzt-/
  9. Ditto, I made my toneprints years ago and haven't touched them since. I remember being very impressed at the time though, there was loads of flexibility once you get into it. Great pedal.
  10. Really? Aguilar octamizer is the only other tilt eq I've encountered in a pedal. Plenty of LPF-style tone knobs out there though...
  11. Yeah that cable/adapter will let you connect the usb ports on the controller and one of the SA pedals. But for the second pedal, you would need another 5-pin midi to usb converter, like this one:
  12. The SA pedals can interface with MIDI in two ways: 1) the little control port (3.5mm TRRS jacks) 2) USB To do it the first way, you need the SA Neuro hub, plus any midi controller you like. For the second way, you would need a controller with USB MIDI hosting functionality (e.g. Morningstar), plus an additional USB midi hosting adapter (e.g. Disaster Area Midi ghost) for the second pedal. SA neuro hub + any controller is probably cheaper, unless your controller of choice has USB hosting anyway. NB you can DIY the second midi hosting adapter if you are handy with a soldering iron. This would save you maybe £50 off the Disaster area midi ghost. I posted on the DIY thread about this some time ago.
  13. The Mission 529 (with any usb-c PD pack) works really well. That's what I'm using at the moment.
  14. Fair point! OP may well prefer the "upside down" taper along with the flipped heel-toe though
  15. Ought to be pretty easy to mod your pedal to work that way if you want! Just need to flip the connections to the pot
  16. Always wanted to try one of these! Nice find
  17. Pre EQ is the stock config. I thought it was switchable using internal jumpers... But possibly I have muddled it and it's not possible. In which case the FX return only bypasses the preamp gain and not the EQ. Best the OP can do is turn the VPF/VLE off and the EQ to noon. Should be pretty transparent.
  18. Not if you bypass the preamp section of the LMIII (which is what you are doing by plugging into the FX return when it is set to post-EQ). The LMIII is a very good power amp that just happens to have a very good preamp in the same box. You can bypass the preamp, as you have discovered. Using a standalone power amp is a fairly niche route for people who are married to particular preamps and/or need way more power than a typical bass head can provide. Doesn't sound like you are one of those people!
  19. I'd have thought series/parallel doesn't make a difference in this situation - if there is nothing plugged into the instrument input then there is no signal coming out of the preamp section? In any case, you can change it to series by moving an internal jumper (did it on mine when I had one, dead easy). The FX loop needs to be set to post-EQ, however, otherwise you are not bypassing the whole preamp and the EQ knobs will affect the sound as you describe.
  20. Not a solution, but related. I would thoroughly recommend getting a cable tester like this one. It's helped me on a few such cables, which looked fine on visual inspection and tested fine with a mutli-meter. Somehow the lights on the tester are way more sensitive to these sneaky shield problems. Cheap gadget and worth its weight in gold.
  21. On a similar note, my customs no longer fit well (after 4-5 years) and it's annoyingly expensive to get them re-shelled (which is the only option the IEM company offers). Does anyone have any bright ideas, e.g. a local company that can tweak the fit?
  22. Or if you are just going to have the one source audio pedal, you could build a USB midi host yourself, it's surprisingly easy: NB you could use your MC6 to control the Stomp as well, so you might not need the extra switcher.
  23. Effectrode and Audio Kitchen for high end tube-based stuff. Hudson as well, famous for their Broadcast preamp, v popular with guitar players but not sure about bass.
  24. Bump. Forgot I still had these Joyo adapters in a drawer!
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