W1_Pro

That, in theory is not a bad idea. Its only the one machine head (the E) and it doesn't even need to be that much bigger. The worst thing that can happen is I ruin a single (chinese) Hofner machine head....I'll have a look at the shaft of the thing and see how viable it is to do.

I should have mentioned at the top of the thread that I have the Chinese built modern series bass with the centre block, and very nice it is too.

I might price up a set of German machine heads. I shudder to think how much they'll be, but it seems to me that having a bass that will accept only one specific (and frequently unavailable) type of string-even if they are flats which don't need replacing often- is a real pain.

Apparently they are Hofner specific, but not if you have the wrong sort of Hofner. I just got this mail from a very nice gentleman called Adrian at Barnes & Mullins, Thomastiks UK distibutor: "Hi Stuart You are indeed correct – the Thomastik Hofner strings are specific to the German produced Hofner basses and will only fit the German instruments. The modern series/ignition etc – are made in China and have smaller diameter machine head (holes) and will require Hofner branded CT strings for this reason. I hope this helps" To be fair, Thomastik do point this out on their website on the 324H page, but like most people I suspect, I never got beyond the 'Hofner specific'' strapline at the top of the page...

Morning all, I have recently procured (at eyewatering expense) a set of these flats to go on my Hofner. As we all know the Hofner has very specific machine heads with tiny little string holes in them, rather than slits. I was happily stringing up the bass until I got to the .96 low E. It does not fit through the hole in the machine head shaft. I'm struggling here. These strings I thought, were meant to be for Hofner basses. Can anyone shed any light on this? Am I doing something stupid? have I missed something? Help!

I've not used an Adamson rig for about twenty five years- well before cardiod sub became a thing- but I think I'm correct in saying that to get subs like these to run cardiod you'd have to flip every third sub and point it backwards. This they do not appear to have done.....

I might be wrong of course, but that skate on the corner of the stage looks like its holding three Adamson E218 subs. Thats a bloody funny place to stack subs. Also, I can't see a tower, which would be the obvious place to put top boxes. Odd....

Damn, thats pretty. Well, if you ever want to move it on, do drop me a line.

I have and I would. I can only speak for myself of course, but buying stuff on FB marketplace I've generally found to be OK. Selling on the other hand I have found to be a waking nightmare inhabited by a miasma of tyre kickers and time wasters. Anyhow, I shall keep an eye out, thanks for the steer!

Reminds me a bit of one of those Westbury track 2's. One of which I've been after for years but you just don't see them very often.

Thats quite a nice looking bass actually. Is that the actual one you bought from the catalogue?

A Gibson three point bridge on one of these? That is very weird. Never seen that. Still, your investment in an early squier was shrewd, must be worth a bit now.

The scariest part of the process was reaming out the tuner holes. If you know anyone with a pillar drill, try and talk them in to letting you use it to do this job. I found it devilishly difficult to keep my hand drill from jerking around whilst reaming the holes, with a concomitant wonkiness in the new, larger holes the result. It looks OK now the tuners are on, but nonetheless, best avoided, I think.

Yes, the screw holes will need moving, also the holes will need reaming out as the OEM tuner shafts are quite narrow. I went for the Grover Titan 145c, which are the same as on my Curbeck. Gives the headstock that SD Curlee 'big eared' look.

..and it goes without saying that $80 CAD for this is beyond a steal. What a result!

That looks in really good condition @TheJay, the frets and fingerboard look fine and that cream dimarzio is a handsome thing. As @Hellzero says, looks like you might have to tweak the bridge a touch. Those holes behind the bridge...what do people do? Its just weird......😂

Thanks for the various likes and comments everyone. Much appreciated! A bit more done. Its going back together nicely. So far... Neck back on. Bridge fitted. The various metal plates back in position New jack plate fitted. Old strap button holes plugged with toothpicks & glue. I'm waiting on new covers for the pickups. Someone up the thread suggested cream/white and I like that idea. I'm also waiting for pickup screws and a step drill bit to ream out the tuner holes.The new Grovers are a fair bit more substantial than the original own brand Hondo ones. I hope to have it finished by the end of the month, if all the various bits arrive.

Sorry for the lack of updates. I've done quite a bit to the bass. I decided to leave the finish as is, so I gave it a bit of a buffing which left it nicely battle scarred. Its been rewired and the cavity shielded as you can see from the pics. I wish I could say I was this good at soldering, but I'm not. I paid someone to do it. The neck has been stripped, sanded and tru- oiled, I've also put new frets in (currently in the process of de sharpening the fret ends, which is thereaputic). I clear coated the fingerboard, not that you can see it here for the masking tape. I also handily managed to dot some superglue on it (the fingerboard) at various points during the refret, so there will need to be a bit more sanding and clearcoating done, I think. One quite nice touch, I needed to make the fret slots a little bit deeper, and I found an old fret saw of my fathers (who was a very handy amateur carpenter) which acomplished the task nicely. The old man has been dead for nearly forty years, but I like to think he was smiling at me from somewhere whilst I was doing this... What else...I've bought a set of SD Curlee accurate Grover machine heads and I found an old Gotoh P bass bridge in my bits box which will fit the bass nicely. I need to get a step drill to ream out the tuner holes. The original Hondo tuners were in pretty bad shape, one was entirely knackered, and the other three were pretty ropey forty years ago when they were put on the bass, so best replaced.

Thanks Rich, Curlee did a double P, the Curbeck, pic of mine further up the thread. I've buffed it up a bit today and its looking pretty good for a frst time relic job😆..I'll post more pics shortly.

Thanks Andy. When the time comes I'll give that a go. Much sanding yet to be done though!

Thanks Andy, which way do you prefer to do it?