bigjohn

Sounds nasty. I've had the back off my b-50r before and there's not much to em. Your has a valve pre-amp though doesn't it? Will they not take it back and replace it?

[quote name='Oscar South' post='211131' date='Jun 2 2008, 02:40 PM']all you need to do is to get the music into your head and after that learn to play in on your bass.[/quote] singing the song to yourself in your head is a good one. I often jump out of bed with a new line in head, or think of one when I'm doing something entirely different. The trick is go and learn how to play it, and then try it out at your next rehearsal. Don't worry if it doesn't work - sooner or later one will come into your head which is just right.

[quote name='GrahamMacca' post='208949' date='May 29 2008, 03:05 PM']Dear All, thanks very much for helping out here and for the info. I'm very sorry that I have not yet been back to reply - a family health crisis (fatyer terminally ill) has had me out of action for the last month. Mine is definitely the Bass series from the mid 1980s (86 I think). I will retrieve the more detailed info re serial number etc which might give us a better idea of value. all the best Graham[/quote] Soz to hear about family probs. Sounds a bit like my 1985 - what colour is the cloth on the front? If it's faded brown it's a bit more collectable. I paid £300 for mine, with a service, from a shop. Which is really really cheap for what it is I reckon. Brilliant amp.

I'd leave well alone too. projects are all well and good for fun - but that's not gonna be fun! regarding a twisted neck. I have a neck that had a really bad bow in it. A friend of mine took it away and built a jig and submerged the neck in the jig in his bath for 3 days. That did the trick.

[quote name='Huge Hands' post='208013' date='May 28 2008, 01:26 PM']I have had the same experience with both the unknown flats on my upright, and Labella flats I recently put on my Cort. It almost feels to me as though they have a thin plastic or rubber coating on them which gets grippy as my fingers cause friction? I'm probably talkin b*****ks, but that's what it feels like.[/quote] That's what it feels like to me too. Made a really bad mistake of changing my strings a coupla days before going into a studio a few months back. Was horrible!

I always find TI flats sticky for about a week. After that I love em. Before that I hate them!

[quote name='Talon' post='204813' date='May 23 2008, 10:06 AM']There's some lettering at the end of the headstock that looks like it says something Custom Bass...I'd get out of this if you can[/quote] I've seen them (I've got one!) with "Deluxe Series" written like that and just there - but not "custom body" - that's stratspeak isn't it?

Has anyone bought anything from Haneberg.se recently? I emailed him but he didn't reply - which doesn't really encourage me to pay him money through paypal...

[quote name='Talon' post='205730' date='May 24 2008, 10:13 PM']I prefer my MIM precision to many American versions I've tried...[/quote] Here here! although I'm not sure about mexican pickups. My new MIM precision sounds much better with US pickups. Much more going on - the stock one was a bit lifeless compared to my other MIM which has a factory fitted US pickup. A balance of amp / bass is important too. you'll find it easier to get a better sound of of a better bass with a wider variety of amps. Similarly better amps sound better with a wider variety of basses. Although it's possible to get a decent tone out of a cheap bass and cheap amp - it'll be harder work. I always think of better gear taking some uncertainty out of the equation.

[quote name='BOD2' post='204911' date='May 23 2008, 12:44 PM']Provided the switch on the push-pull pot is the correct type it shouldn't be a problem. Push-pull pots usually have "DPDT" switches on them (with 6 contacts) as these are the most versatile. The switch wiring is completely independent of the pot itself so just think of it as two separate things - a pot and a switch - and you should be ok. Or just post all the info here and someone will be able to help.[/quote] Just had DPDT switches explained to me by my man in the know. He's an electrical engineer by trade. He says it's a bit odd that allparts don't provide a datasheet. Are they just some kind of standard?

[quote name='BOD2' post='204312' date='May 22 2008, 02:20 PM']CTS make the pots for Fender. Fender are a bulk buyer so they can specify exactly what they want and also the price point they want them at. They may even specify "exclusivity" so that CTS cannot sell identical pots to anyone else. That will explain the differences. Which are better ? Difficult to say. The Fender ones might be built to a lower price point to keep Fender costs down. Then when Fender sell them on they charge a premium because it says "Fender" on them (am I being too cynical ?). I'd be inclined to say that if CTS sell pots with their own brand name on them, then they'll be the best pots they can make for the money. Therefore I'd go with CTS rather then Fender. And if one of the pots doesn't feel right - replace it.[/quote] Was thinking the same - Fender would not doubt want the cheapest pots cts will do for em! I'm putting a villex mid range booster in as well now - so one of the pots has to be a switch - I've got a push pull one. Only thing is the villex wiring diagram is for a toggle switch. Hmmm.

[quote name='steve-soar' post='204519' date='May 22 2008, 07:58 PM']Hi John, try Fender.com-support-wiring diagrams-62 Vintage Jazz and then just wire the outputs to the master vol before the jack socket. Don't look at the diagram for the Deluxe Jazz Steve.[/quote] Nice one Steve. Will do this - Beedster had a thread on here about wiring his concentric pots - he complained about the pots interfering with one another and loss of output. Anyone got ideas why concentric pots should result in effects like this? Or were they just wired wrong?

I'm doing some diy upgrades this weekend. First on the list is changing the pickup and wiring in a MIM precision. So... I bought some cts pots and switchcraft socket - took the bass apart and found that it's already got american fender cts pots in it. It's "precision upgrade" model - and looking at the parts list it did indeed have US electrics (not pickups) factory fitted. I was going to change em as one of them felt odd - a bit wonky, and although works fine, one feels scratchy. They do look slightly different than the standard cts pots though - they have dip in the bottom - they have a steel shaft (the cts ones are brass) and one of them has a red bit of plastic inside the pot. Anyway - this is probably a bit anal - but does anyone know why they're so different? I wondering if I should just get some contact cleaner on em and just change the pickup.

Hiya, Does anyone know any good wiring diagram resources on the net? I'm putting concentric pots on me p/j - I'm going con pot / con pot / master vol ?? John

Fantastic. Confusion > enlightenment all in one morning. After speaking to Dave. It all makes sense. I am overdriven.

Has anyone had experience of the fender US moulded case and a Hiscox EBS? I'm trying to make up my mind - which one did / do you prefer?

[quote name='Bassman101' post='202401' date='May 19 2008, 08:30 PM']Hey, im kinda new, so you guys dont know me, but i was reading this, and i looked on ebay because i was jsut... well looking around and i came across some necks, none of them are exactly what you want, i came across a J bass neck with block inlay, and another neck, not sure if its a P, didnt read it properly lol but no block inlay, why is there no good parts when people need them?, i dont think this is what you want, but maybe something you might have??? [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FENDER-LIC-2906-P-BASS-GUITAR-ROSEWOOD-NECK-MIGHTY-MITE_W0QQitemZ290230180210QQihZ019QQcategoryZ41423QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD2VQQcmdZViewItem"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FENDER-LIC-2906-P-BA...VQQcmdZViewItem[/url][/quote] Nice one - yeah - seen a few MM replacement necks - but none have had inlays. And I've read some non-too-complimentary things about the newer Mighty Mite necks. (why are they shipping canadian maple to korea for machining?) Deffo has to have inlays - Pearl on a maple board (although if anyone knows where I can get a pearl on rosewood or ebony I'd also be interested for another project)

J bass necks are a little thin for me. I can get by playing em - but prefer p bass necks' width and they sound better

Been looking all over the web for a while now to no avail. Found loads of j bass ones - allparts do one. Warmoth have done them in the past apparently but they're special run and won't say when / if they're ever gonna do em again. Anyone any ideas? Cheers John

[quote name='Tee' post='197986' date='May 13 2008, 02:18 PM']Personally, i don't understand this, being in several bands thing. My band takes up enough time/effort/money as it is.[/quote] I agree whitcha. I find it "hard" enough to write basslines, keep improving them and keep them the way I want them for 10-15 songs. Anymore than that I'd want to practice all afternoon, every afternoon, and really aint got the time. If I didn't like the genre or the music I was playing I'd bail out quick too. I'd just feel too guilty not being able to give it the full gun, wasting my time and everyone else's. That's not to say I don't see why people play music they're not really that into though - the radio needs to be filled with dross

Also watch what they have in stock - I've been waiting over a week for something which had a 2-4 day lead time. They've still not posted it. Bugger is that it's going to be posted with stuff that is in stock (new TI flats) - so it's holding that up too. They are quite cheap for TIs though. Same goes for any mail order company though I suppose. I waited 2 months for a monitor from Dabs.com once so I'm a bit jittery. Although that was great cos in the end they inadvertently sent two Good though - I've ordered loads of stuff from them before and this is the first time they've not got it to me in 48 hours from Germany.