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Everything posted by Jack
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They're by far my favourite amps, I've had a 1001ii (the only amp I regret selling), a MBF, MB500 and an MBE. All bombproof and all fantastic to listen to.
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I was thinking more along the lines of bass > effects (you mention a board so I'm assuming) > BDDI (set to sound good through the PA) > parallel output to amp. That way the BDDI can be twiddled to the soundman's content and the amp o yours without either affecting the other.
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It sounds as though you want the tube drive and general 'character' from the GK amp but not the eq? You're right that it's either pre-both or post-both. I had the same amp and thought the same thing, normally the 'pre-eq' setting on an amp is still after the gain control, not so on the many GK amps I've tried. If you simply must have the amp's character then it sounds as though you've got the set the DI to 'post' and either live with not really being able to make too many eq changes after soundcheck or putting an external eq in the effects loop. If you can get the character from somewhere else then your BDDI suggestion is as good as any other. I don't like them before an amp, so I'd set it all up beforehand, never change the settings and then send the parallel output to the amp head if it were me. A little off the wall here, but I remember my GK Plex did a very good impression of my Fusion. What about putting a Plex on your board set just so for the FOH and then running a totally seperate line into your amp?
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It's an easy DIY job. But if you add up the cost of all the pieces you'll see why they're expensive.
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I'm starting to wonder that too. Assuming it isn't: OP, many people are trying to give you good advice on here but with your complete lack of understanding it's very difficult to help you. Nothing, nothing, will be as good as paying a local sound engineer for a few hours of their time to walk you through some of the basics of setting up your system. Where are you? Maybe a local basschatter will step up? And I second the recommendation for the book above, it's a good read.
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I have that mixer (and I've had it's predecessor the Compact too) and it's a brilliant choice for what you want.
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Actually it's a line level signal (and more) so it's quite a lot of signal going down a quite short cable. I personally wouldn't go much longer than that using unbalanced cables but I'm a worrier.
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And what are they like? Anyone have first hand experience?
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Everything (2 standard, 2 custom) he's done for me has brilliant.
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Just an XLR cable will do fine. I don't own that exact speaker but I do own a few Thomann own brand products and they're all good to excellent for the prices you pay.
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As a very general rule of thumb it's always best to isolate digital pedals. Plenty of analogue pedals benefit from it, and plenty of digital ones don't need it, but it's a good start.
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If you buy sensibly and buy used (which are things that we can help you with!) then you shouldn't lose money if you run out of steam and decide that you're not going much further with bass. With that said, there are some VERY high quality large house or small gig rigs on here for not much money at all. I can't believe that nobody has bought that Eden mini head and 1x12" cabinet or £400. That's dreamy.
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Soundman bashing is no longer allowed on BC, but it's safe to say that the reason that ped brought that rule in is because not many people feel as favourable about soundmen as you do. I either have less-than-stellar soundmen provided by the venue or I'm the soundman for most of our gigs. Either way I'm usually disappointed and either way there's usually no one watching the meters too closely after the first song.
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You can still find the Model T on the Schecter site if you Google it but I can't seem to navigate there via the menus, is it being discontinued?
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It's an investment upfront, but if you can swing a digital mixer like the Behringer XR18 then it's so worth doing. 16 XLR ins, 8 XLR outs, any of which can be configured to do whatever you want. One of the 27 of you must be able to donate an old laptop, tablet or phone for control.
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That makes sense of they're only ever going to be used as backline and one at a time. I would want to stack them or run them as speaker on sick pa systems though. If I'm the only one then fair enough, but if there's enough interest from others could we consider having everything on the back?
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They're only £7.50, should we all buy a couple and then none of us show up?
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Stingray 2 band to 3 band conversion. Should I or shouldn’t I?
Jack replied to vinorange's topic in Repairs and Technical
An interesting compromise is the John East MMSR. It's a straight fit in the 2 band control cavity so no drilling (the 2 bands have the output on the jack plate, the 3 bands have it on the side of the body). You get to keep the majesty of the 2 band bass and treble controls and you get a semi-parametric mid. Mine's brilliant, even just having center detentes is a game changer but you get all the sound of the 2 band plus the ability to boost the mids. -
Sensing a theme in the classifieds at the moment...
Jack replied to therealting's topic in Amps and Cabs
In Markbass' defence, 3 of those are 1 person who's moving on a whole rig in 3 different threads. -
This thread is getting very off topic and nobody is talking about John Hall or Rickenbacker any more. Keep it up. ✔️
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Aaaaaaaaaaaaand this thread has a second page that I didn't see. Not only has my suggestion been already discussed but you've already bought the Behringer! The Soundcraft Notepad 8FX isn't much bigger but it has 2 xlrs, 2 mono/stereo channels, really good effects and (most importantly) proper balanced outputs. I have the 5 and it's superb. £75 for an Alesis (who?) or £90 for a Soundcraft? That's a no brainer as long as it isn't physically too big.
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£600 (new) would get you quite a lot from GSS. You could get the head with either the 1x12" or the new 4x8" for that. Sorry, that doesn't help answer your question....