cameltoe

Cream all the way. Cream looks like it's just a cool bass not trying to be too flash. Pearl is the equivalent of lexus lights on a citroen saxo.

Yum Yum, Katy Perry. All you have to do to nudge that is backcomb your hair and talk like a medieval jester. Lucky B@stard.

[quote name='Grand Wazoo' post='1114785' date='Feb 4 2011, 12:46 AM']Also I need to warn you of a possible sinister result, the more you rub off the lacquer the more you weaken the neck and you risk ending up with an unstable neck difficult to keep straight and to keep in tune. Kinda like turn the heating on and the neck bends forward, turn it off and it goes the opposite way. So don't go so strong as to end up to the bare maple.[/quote] Why is this GW? On the RW the neck finish is very thin, rubbed down to nowt in places. Is it just a case of cheaper woods being used?

My main bass is a Road Worn Precision, and I can't express how much I love this bass. I have a gap in my life where I should normally be lusting after something! I think maybe a custom shop, Nash, or AV '57 may finally get on the gas list. It's weird feeling content with your gear. Anyway, my back up bass is a Classic Vibe 50's precision. Great looking bass, sounds good with a new 51 RI pick up, and plays OK now I've set it up. The one thing that puts me off playing it though, is how damn new and sticky it feels. I really understand now why people relic their basses, and why off-the-shelf relic'ed basses are doing well at the moment- there's just something about a worn-in bass that makes it so much more comfy to play. Aesthetically, I've not been a fan, and was against the Road Worn idea until I played it! I guess I like the result but not the idea. If I had the money, I'd buy a genuine vintage instrument. Is there anything I can do to the thick, sticky poly finish on this bass to make it more comfy to play? I'm not doing it so it looks cool, but in the same breath I'd rather not end up with a bass that looks badly relic'ed. I'd like it to look a bit convincing at the least, but really just get that worn in feeling, especially in the neck. I've found a few websites, like Relic Deluxe, that claim you can get a decent relic finish on a poly, but seriously the lacquer is so damn thick on that neck! It also affects the sound, as it's such a hard, shiny surface for the strings to vibrate against. You really notice the difference playing the RW and the CV unplugged- the sharp, rattling, tinny sound fron the CV is unreal, compared to the warm, woody, dampened tone from the RW. I don't think a quick wet-and-dry would suffice, I reckon it may need bringing back to almost bare wood. Any Ideas?

Bravewood? Are there any Nash suppliers over here?

I aquired this off the forum recently, and it's a wonderful instrument, although it needs a good set-up. I had planned to take it to Mansons in Exeter as I also had a suspicion it may need a new nut, but I ended up tweaking a few things to get it how I'd like it. It's not great now though. I'm OK at setting up precisions, etc, but this seems more complicated. The micro-tilt in the neck is confusing. I managed to track down a step-by-step guide from the G&L website, but I realise this is only a basic set-up, and there were also things that confused me there too. I had always considered micro-tilt or any kind of shimming to be a last resort when you cannot get the action low enough, or as a final fine-tuning of the bass set-up. The G&L guide led me to believe the saddles should be set at a definite height, and the micro-tilt should then determine the action. I tried this approach, and although the action is now where I'd like it, the strings are slapping like mad on the higher frets. I've adjusted the truss rod once, carefully, to have the relief I'd expect to see over the 8th fret, and don't want to mess with that for a minute until I can get the rest figured out. I've set the micro-tilt to how I like the action, nice and low, with a minor push from the screw to give the neck a slight angle backwards behind the body. When I got the bass, it was much more extreme, with the micro-tilt pushing the neck waaaay behind the body. Ironically it was probably better to play then, but the saddles were jacked right up to compensate. Do I need to factor in the micro-tilt adjustment from the start, or try to get the set-up I want with no push from the micro-tilt screw (i.e flat body to neck profile), and then only use the micro-tilt if I need to? Or shall I just take it to Mansons?

[quote name='GreeneKing' post='1114343' date='Feb 3 2011, 07:12 PM']I agree. Playing devil's advocate, if I bought a bass advertised with a hard case I'd expect a serviceable item. It would depend on the bass too . If it was a newish and expensive bass I'd hope to receive the original case in good nick. So I can see where he's coming from.[/quote] No I don't agree with this. I think you should be fine, although it entirely depends on the way ebay view this kind of thing, and not everyone seems to have confidence in their 'unique' legal viewpoint. I would explain, to the seller and paypal, that only the bass was for sale, only the bass was bid on and only the bass was won. A hard case was provided for shipping reasons and nothing was implied in the item description for it to be seen as anything other than a means to transport the item. Therefore condition is irrelevant, as it was only a means to protect the guitar and should be viewed upon as packaging materials, which is exactly how it was represented it in the item description. Would he return it to you if the cardboard box wasn't in as good condition as he thought? If the bubbles in the bubblewrap were too small? (I will include 3.2 metres of premium grade bubble wrap, bought second hand but with only minor evidence of previous usage. No popped bubbles and no sellotape damage.....) I kinda agree with burritobass in that to avoid complicated sellers, maybe you should spell this out in the description, but TBH if you need to start making a list of the things that aren't included in the sale, the item decription would be impossible (Kitchen table in photo- not included in sale. Cat on sofa next to guitar licking his balls- not included in sale). If you're advertising a guitar WITH a hardcase, then unless stated otherwise, I'd expect it to be the correct hardcase for the guitar (If the guitar should have come with a hardcase from new) in a condition to match the condition of the guitar. If it was an aftermarket case, or one in a shabby condition, then I'd expect to be told.

Update Now received my refund from paypal. The guy didn't even bother to respond to the dispute. It's all very sad and not how anyone should do business. I'd really like to see all the silverstone threads (good and bad, only fair) become a sticky. I come on this site all the time, but never thought to run a search on them to see what they were like. As I said previously, their website is very slick, response to emails great (before I paid) and I've seen the covers up close so I know they are good, and they obviously arrive sometimes. Plus I didn't think it was possible for a business who's reviews have been 'mixed' ( I choose my words carefully) or perhaps an 'eventful' business history to last these days. Prob very naive of me. Had I spotted a thread marked 'Silverstone Amp Covers' in the top bar I'm sure I wouldn't have ordered at all after reading ALL the threads and making an informed decision. Anyway, I'm now going to order a cover from hotcovers, and have every faith it will get here! (research done!)

I've noticed as well that when using Nitro mors there is a window of time after application where the paint is very easy to strip, usually 10 mins or so, and after this point it can start to harden again and require a bit more effort. I've never stripped a bass with it though, a few cars and my woodworm infested staircase. Use gloves, it can tickle a bit

Thanks, I've never looked into dates before so although common sense told me this was probably normal, I wanted your opinions. Looking forward to having it set-up properly now.

I pulled apart my G&L L2k the other day, and noticed the body stamp is March 1993, and the neck stamp is November 1992. I've no idea how normal this is, but what makes it weirder still, using the G&L website, the serial on the neck plate dates it at 1991? Is this something perfectly normal or a bit odd? Ive no reason to doubt it's authenticity otherwise, everything seems great with the bass.

I'd text again, something along the lines of 'Hi guys, haven't heard from you, but need to know if you're still interested in me joining the band, as I have another local band who are trying to get me to join them. Hope all is well, Cheers.' Or something like that.

As Mog says, it depends on a few things as to how 'dead' your strings are. Personal preference is one, and I certainly don't like the sound of my strings until they've had a few good gigs. They need time to settle down for me, I hate the zingyness that Mog loves! Part of the reason I use DR Sunbeams, as they are a mellow sounding nickel string. I can usually tell if my strings are going dead, as the low end tends to lose definition when amped up. Less tight and more boomy. This is probably due to the strings not ringing out like they should so I'm actually losing mids and tops. They also visually corrode, you can (sometimes) see them discolouring if you leave them on too long. It is hard sometimes, as it can be a very gradual process, and if you're picking up the bass every day and have longer lasting strings (like DR's) it can suddenly dawn on you one day that you should have changed them last month. That's what happens with me anyway. I find myself tweaking the EQ on my amp much more when the strings are going dead.

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='1082365' date='Jan 8 2011, 06:05 PM']Ive never cared at all what other people think of my basses. Its normally people who haven't played one and so normally quote other peoples experience or just assume the worst.[/quote] [i]Exactly [/i]how it should be. I ended up buying my Roadworn after specifically NOT wanting a roadworn! I was part of the clan that thought you would be paying extra just to have a mexican spit on your bass and drive home from the factory with it tied to their rear bumper. I played it, I fell in love. Literally. You'll have to prise this bass out of my cold, dead fingers. I couldn't give two sh**s where it was made!