
cameltoe
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Everything posted by cameltoe
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[quote name='deanovw' timestamp='1339843156' post='1695207'] Hi, I have been searching around for a set of these and allparts have repro ones: [url="http://www.allparts.uk.com/string-ferrules-for-bass-vintage-reproduction-12-inch-13mm-p-15668.html"]http://www.allparts....mm-p-15668.html[/url] do you have any pics of yours? [/quote] Here, this is the same as what I bought; [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Fender-Bass-American-Series-String-Ferrules-Stainless-/140765755447?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item20c64af837#ht_2425wt_977"]http://www.ebay.co.u...7#ht_2425wt_977[/url] There is something reassuring about using Fender parts, which is why I spent the extra cash, even though mine were slightly more expensive at the time. But having used Gotoh res-o-lite tuners before, and seen the tuner ferrules not properly fit the holes in the headstock (even though the tuners were a perfect fit) it's worth spending a few extra ££'s.
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[quote name='noelk27' timestamp='1339677653' post='1692500'] +1 neepheid Construction techniques have more impact than choice of woods. Elsewhere on the boards there's a thread running where it's being claimed that the slither of touchboard material has a marked impact on the sound produced by a bass (it being stated that rosewood dampens the overall sound). Personally, I think that assertion is nonsense (not least because a fretted string almost never touches the board, but the fret wire, so even accepting transmission and dissipation arguments it's difficult to see how the wire isn't having more of an impact than the touchboard wood). [/quote] Why does the string have to touch the board to affect the tone? This is something you seem to assume matters but you've not explained why. Soundwaves react differently off different surfaces. Not because they are connected to them but because sound waves travel. I'll admit, one thing that has not been mentioned in the fretboard argument is that maple is nearly always finished with a hard lacquer and rosewood left bare. This will have a bigger impact, I'm sure, but if it has any impact at all, then surely this can be an argument that a different material will affect tone.
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[quote name='LawrenceH' timestamp='1339757173' post='1693770'] Just realised Mr Foxen has also mentioned another factor which is really important but I don't think anyone has talked about, the damping factor (Q). Just like in a loudspeaker or electronic filter this relates to bandwidth and amplitude at resonance. Pick two hypothetical bits of wood with the same resonant frequency but very different q, make them into solid blocks like xylophone keys and hit them. The high q bit of wood will ring longer and sound a clearer note than the low q bit. Put a string along it and tune it to a similar frequency and pluck it, acoustically you will still get very different outputs as one block amplifies the note better than the other. Now add on a piezo and you should see the effect electrically as well, and all without a hollow body. Can the question be simplified to ask what is the difference in resonant frequency and q between different bits of wood, and how do the frequencies of resonance relate to the notes of a bass guitar? If the resonance isn't anywhere near the first few harmonics (say arbitrarily higher than 1k) and/or q is always low (the fact xylophone keys work would suggest otherwise) then wood variations couldn't impact much on tone. But otherwise then you'd expect to be able to measure it. I think in a lot of designs they're stiff enough that the major resonances ARE shifted higher and/or well damped which is why pine lumber can sound similar to say a guitar-shaped lump of alder. Laminate construction will obviously help here, making it stiff enough to shift the resonances higher to a range where they're not able to impact upon major string overtones. BUT, and this is from building loudspeakers and hearing the resonant panel modes in relation to their size, I would expect that some types of construction would have resonances and be of high enough q factor to audibly impact upon the midrange of the instrument. I am shifting further off the fence to say that wood [i]could be made to be [/i]important to tone. But still in a lot of cases changing it round won't do much because resonance and/or q won't be in range. So everyone's right, hurrah. [/quote] Exactly my argument in the maple vs rosewood debate. This may be more apparent unplugged than plugged in, but I think (my opinion) has an affect on the sound. This may also explain the whole 'nitro paint allowing a body to breathe' myth, which I'm not so sure about. I usually prefer to use my ears.
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Surprised again to see Jeff Ament in the list. Have started a new covers band recently and learnt a couple of Pearl Jam covers. Ok, some of his lines aren't the most inventive, but he busts out some rather quick finger funk from time to time which is fairly impressive. Have a listen to Porch from Ten for an example. He had a style that wasn't exactly your standard 90's rock bass. Novoselic perhaps wasn't the most technical player, but how technical do you want a bassist to be in Nirvana? Any more than what he did would have been overplaying, plus he wrote some great lines. Lounge Act is a great bass line. Mark Hoppus is pretty crap though.
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Warm, punchy Nickel roundwounds please- no zingyness!
cameltoe replied to cameltoe's topic in Accessories and Misc
Been using Sunbeams ever since I started this thread, couldn't be happier, exactly what I was after. Last ages and a great sound. -
Hi, Picked up as part of a trade deal from Max Normal, who had removed this from a new USA precision bass he'd literally just bought, so I imagine a 2011 or 2012 model. Just fitted it to a P bass of mine and it's not really my sound. I'm used to a vintage tone, but this is more scooped, with a fatter bottom end and more aggressive mids. A great pickup if you like a modern sounding P bass, I imagine it's a tamer version of the Seymour Duncan 1/4 lb's, which I also have for sale. Great upgrade. Don't know what a fair price is, so will start at £25. Cheers
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[quote name='Mr Fretbuzz' timestamp='1339529443' post='1690066'] I'll play it tomorrow and it will sound like this: Blues.....Buuuz Bzz Buuuz Bzz Buuuz Bzz Buuuz bzz Punk pop..... B B ZZ ZZ B B B ZZ ZZ Reggae..... Buuzz Buz Buz Buz Buz Buz Funk..... Bzzzzzz Z Z Bzz Rock..... bzzzzzzzzzzz bzzzzzzzzzzz bzzzzzzzzz bzzzzzzzz [/quote] Why, does it have an earthing problem? Damn Fender shoddy QC
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3-Tone Sunburst P-bass, Maple or Rosewood finger board?
cameltoe replied to jackers's topic in Bass Guitars
[quote name='noelk27' timestamp='1339584974' post='1690871'] Leaving aside the point that the string almost never contacts the wood of the touchboard, but the fret wire, can't say I understand this notion of damping. Length of and rate at which the string moves in the magnetic field generated by the pickup which determines the output. Touchboard wood is making no appreciable difference to output or sustain. Don't you think that the reason there's any difference between a neck that's all maple and a neck made with maple and capped with rosewood is construction? Most necks with a maple touchboard are not capped. All necks with a rosewood touchboard are capped. As for colour combination preferences - two-tone sunburst and maple looks great and three-tone sunburst and rosewood looks great. [/quote] So you don't think maple fretboards sound brighter? I think if a string is vibrating heavily less than half an inch away from a piece of wood, which ultimately it is connected to, then some of these vibrations are going to either rebound off the board, or be absorbed by it. How much of either will depend on the type of material. If it's wood, then there are bound to be variances between different woods, even different pieces of the same type of wood. That's why custom guitar and bass makers spend a lot of time finding the right tone woods with which to build an instrument. And maple just looks better. -
3-Tone Sunburst P-bass, Maple or Rosewood finger board?
cameltoe replied to jackers's topic in Bass Guitars
Maple everytime! Rosewood dampens the strings better, as it's a softer wood. But Maple. -
Hi guys, I just acquired an 80's Jap precision from the forum, and as happy as I am with the way it plays, it seems to be the clankiest sounding precision I've ever owned. It really is very metallic sounding when any string makes contact with any fret. At first I thought it was the strings that came with the bass- I usually use Nickel Sunbeams so put a set of those on, and it's no better. I must stress though, that the sound does not transfer through the amp. It's a lovely and warm, woody sounding bass when plugged in. I've played with the set-up and got it how I like it, but this is not a problem with the strings choking out or the action being too low-I'm well aware of what that sounds like- It is the normal fretting sound you'd expect from any bass, it's just very extreme! I wondered if the metal used for the frets could be the cause- did Fender Japan use something like Stainless Steel for frets in the 80's whereas Nickel is more common now?
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Basically the same here- I felt it only had to be a smidgen louder and it would have coped.
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Not yet, but I will this week. I won't now have the GK cab for a while as it's seems Thomann are actually out of stock, even though they said they had some. Expected date is 18/7! Not all bad though, as I'm hoping it's because this will be the new batch of US- built MBE cabs.
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Pub gigs, with no FOH support. At times it couldn't cope with my drummer, and any attempt to increase the volume resulted in the valves breaking up, at which point it's getting quieter but distorted. A change to lower gain Preamp valves meant I could physically turn the volume dial further without breaking up, but the volume was lower overall. Sounds amazing though and gives a really warm, spread-out sound, and if it's any consolation we are a loud band. If you decide to go ahead at any point I've got the matching cab that went with the UK-made ltd edition heads, the LB212, which I'll be putting up for sale soon. Would be a nice pairing and certainly gets the best from the LB.
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Wasn't loud enough for me. Nearly, but not quite.
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Again, parts of it look very cheap, the EQ especially. I bought the LB, and loved it, but it wasn't loud enough for our gigs. I would have considered this if it was available, but I think the price is way off TBH. Don't Markbass make a similar model in the Randy Jackson signature? Cheaper too, IIRC.
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Feeler:- FS/FT Fender Road Worn 50's Precision Bass
cameltoe replied to mashup's topic in Basses For Sale
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Fender Classic 50s Precision MIM Fiesta Red Maple FB
cameltoe replied to bumnote's topic in Basses For Sale
[quote name='Cyrene' timestamp='1326289447' post='1494949'] I love the neck on mine. That's the reason I sold my CV 60s. I walked in Guitar Guitar, felt the eck then decided I had to have one. Even if some people refer to it as salmon pink.... [/quote] My Fiesta Red Road Worn had 'Salmon Pink' written on the shops hanging tag... -
The GK 212MBE is an even better price, and hence I just ordered one. Hopefully it will be what I'm looking for, and give me the sound I want, but if not I plan to take full advantage of Thomann's 30 day money-back offer. They had a B-stock item for slightly cheaper, but I have heard the QC can be a bit off with these cabs, as you can expect for the price, so went for brand new. The difference in price was negligible anyway. This should be slightly smaller than the LB cab, but a lot lighter. I really don't think the 14kg Ashdown quote is right, but I'll know soon enough. The LB cab will now provisionally be for sale! Thanks every for your advice, and hopefully I won't be back here whinging in 3-5 business days
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[quote name='Balcro' timestamp='1339236323' post='1685643'] Hi cameltoe, As born-to-be-loud says, a small change of dimensions, but........... who knows. Can't vouch for the sound, but... http://www.thomann.de/gb/gallien_krueger_212mbe.htm http://www.gallien-krueger.com/products_mbe_series.html 2 ins shorter, 1 in wider but a little over 1.5" deeper. Balcro. [/quote] If that sounds half-good then that's a seriously good price...
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Thats very interesting.... I'd never thought to question 14kgs, and took that as gospel. If it does indeed weigh nearly 30kg, then I can worry less about the reduction in dimensions and more about bringing the weight down. It also means I'm incredibly strong..... The Compact would therefore become a serious option for me, although outside my budget. I'm off to buy some bathroom scales!