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malcolm.mcintyre

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  1. Hi Can anyone advise where to find a truss rod nut supplier in UK. I need one for a celinder bass, so I’m guessing metric. Won’t know until I can (hopefully) get the old one off. Part supplies seem to be tricky since Brexit
  2. Another positive from me. Good communication and helpful service.
  3. Am I the only one concerned about the “look” of the backline, as well as the sound? I use a Barefaced Big Twin 2, often for its appearance on a big stage, as much as the sound. As has been mentioned many times, at a big outdoor gig the PA guy is in charge of what the audience hears, so a single 12 would be fine for backline fill, but it just looks a bit weedy.
  4. 60s I used a Selmer valve amp into a pair of Selmer 18 inch cabs (and used to fit them into a mini countryman). I’ve still got some tapes of live gigs, and the bass sounds better than it ought to. I the 70s, short of cash, I used H/H into a Marshal angle guitar cab. Fairly horrible sound. Much the best sounding amp that I got to use in that era, and possibly still the best sounding amp I’ve heard, was an original Music Man valve amp, into 4x12. Not specifically a bass amp, but that certainly didn’t matter. Much better than the Ampeg SVT which I got when I had some money. In the 80s I went with a series of Trace Elliots, amps good, cabs not.
  5. I am sure it will be a problem with the connection between the battery and pre-amp board. On mine it was a hidden break in the wire where it entered the body routing between battery compartment and pre-amp/controls cavity. Easy to check if you have a voltmeter, just see if 9v is seen at the pre-amp.
  6. They are only bits of foam rubber, stuck on to the screw plates with double sided adhesive tape Simplest diy job in the world.
  7. Switch failed on my EBS multicomp, of similar vintage. I e-mailed EBS manufacturer, and they are aware of problem. Sent me a new switch free. I then soldered it to the wrong side of the board😔
  8. I've used Rotosound flats on my pre-Ernie (i.e. String through body) Stingray for 30 years. And the truss rod still hasn't needed touching from new, which can't be said for any of my other basses.
  9. Just dealt with Real Electronics. Fantastic; quick, friendly and helpful service. Very fair pricing. Highly recommended.
  10. [sub]Thanks for that.[/sub] [sub]I have now heard back from Mark Bass, Italy, and they say that their service arrangement in the UK is with;[/sub] [sub][url="http://www.realelectronics.co.uk"]www.realelectronics.co.uk[/url][/sub]
  11. I have also blown a driver in my Mark Bass 102P Traveler. Any more info on how to get a replacement or re-cone? B&C seem to make a range of 10" drivers, but I'm guessing that non-matching cone colours would make it difficult to sell on the cab.
  12. Does anyone know which size Allen key is needed for Celinder bridge saddle screws? I'm guessing 0.05 inch, like a lot of American bridges, but could it be 1.25 mm as Christian is building in Denmark?
  13. I think there is a lot of vibrational energy transfer from the top of the cab to a rigidly mounted amp, which can't be good for the valves. Going to try a decent thickness of close cell foam.
  14. I have a Roland Micro Bass Cube, but to be honest, think it is completely rubbish. I have yet to find a situation where it was loud enough to serve any purpose.
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