GreeneKing

[quote name='velvetkevorkian' post='607622' date='Sep 24 2009, 12:55 PM']I would try with just a cloth and lemon oil in the first instance- that should get most of the grot off. If its really filthy a cotton ball with a little lighter fluid works wonders, then follow up with lemon oil. I treated a couple of my basses with this recently and was quite astonished at how easy it was to get the board looking tip-top again. Hope that helps.[/quote] +1 Don't go attacking it with anything more vigorous especially if it's new and just dried out. A soft cloth and elbow grease will bring the frets up nicely too.

I don't know if this has been done before but I don't think so. I love Dr Feelgood. My taste in music is diverse indeed but so far as performing goes I couldn't see myself much happier than playing with 'Wilko Johnson'. I'm listening to 'Back in the Night' as I type and it's not uber sophisticated but as a bassist I'd be ever so happy. It would of course mean replacing Norman Watt-Roy So one band only, no 'clever' answers if you could slot into a band past or present who would it be? Peter

Just so we can all get off on that 'feeling' we do of course need an 'after' pic to go with the before one. Waiting with bated breath.

[quote name='budget bassist' post='607220' date='Sep 23 2009, 10:58 PM']Oh come on, that forum is nothing but yes-men that praise his every idea. Don't get me wrong, i love EBMM basses but it does get a bit sickening on there reading comment after comment kissing his arse. He's a good businessman, i'll give him that, but i'd be lying if thought that those vintage-styled basses weren't his idea.[/quote] So young and so cynical I do agree totally on the arse licking tho, the main reason I don't go there.

Nice to see Ed Friedland making a comment as a Junior member. The Cream one is a bit tasty. In defence of SB he does say at the very beginning that he's not wholly supportive of the idea, so it's a bit odd to lambaste him.

I've owned and played a large number of basses. Generally the more expensive ones have played and sounded better. Has the OP played many expensive basses or are you coming from a limited experience? Peter

Nope, I wouldn't leave them off for long myself. The job can be done just as well one at a time if you're concerned. I get a quiet satisfaction from lemon oiling a dry board. Perhaps I'm a little sad

MM4 or MM5 = Marcus Miller SR = Stingray

I always lemon oil the fretboard when changing strings. One string at a time works fine and the lemon oil should be just what's needed there Rub it in reasonably heavily with a cloth but not sloshing it around. Leave it for a couple of minutes and then polish off. You may need to do it 2 or 3 times but don't overdo it. You can always repeat by simply loosening one string at a time if it's needed. That board looks drier than a witches tit Peter

Yes Sean, very bling innit?

I fitted the U-Retro to the NS5 today. All went well, I re-used the Spector quick connectors where I could and the fit was straightforward. Given that I've not swapped out the EMG's there is no bridge earth and there is no buzzing, snap, crackle or popping whatsoever. It sounds good at home practice volume particularly dialling in a whole dose of low mids. Trying in earnest on Sunday:

So he's obviously a slave to the music then, serving despite the pain with a sense of duty. Ahhhh... bless his cotton socks

Kingbass ergonomics strike again?

No, I'm keeping the EMG's in place and will earth just the U-Retro. Sean is the man re this and his thread is here somewhere. Found it. [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=52704&hl=Spector"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=...&hl=Spector[/url] He hasn't created a bridge ground and I don't intent to unless it proves necessary due to noise. Peter

That sounds good CK. I think the maple wings may account for some of that grittiness but I suspect that's open to debate I know the bridge pup on my NS5 sounds so sublime I just couldn't stop noodling at a recent band practice. The guys probably think I'm weird but I'm not, I'm just 'special'. I'm hoping my U-Retro will arrive tomorrow and I'll fit it straight away and update here. It's mids, particularly lower mids that I like to dial in and I'm a bit lost with 2EQ to be honest. Peter

Yes drilling shouldn't be a problem, just seating the bridge on a splayed wire should make sufficient contact. Bridge and cavity are very close. As an aside, what is it about the EMG's you don't like CK? I know the maple winged NS5's can be brighter than the walnut ones like mine but I love the tone and I'm totally in love with this bass. Saying that I miss the mids and I'm following in Sean's footsteps and yours too with a U-Retro with the switches tucked into the control cavity. Mine doesn't have the Tonepump but the HAZLabs 2EQ. I'm totally in love with this bass (Oops I've already said that). Peter - Totally nuts about this ba......

TC Electronics have been around making high quality studio equipment for a long time but the Rebel Head is their 1st foray into the bass amp business and I think that their fresh approach has worked wonders. There's two sides to an amp in my opinion, features and sounds. Sound must come 1st because if the amp doesn't sound good no amount of features will make up for that. Most features of course have a direct influence on the sound produced too. Perhaps there's another aspect I haven't mentioned, reliability. Features abound! The amp has 4EQ with the usual Bass, Lower Mid, Upper Mid and Treble adjustment highlighted by a ring of LEDs (the 'Ring of LEDs' is used to great effect throughout): [i][b]Tone control Bass Center Freq: 280Hz (range: 71-1120Hz, Gain: +15/-24dB) Low Mid Center Freq: 400Hz (range: 100-1600Hz, Gain: +15/-24dB) High Mid Center Freq: 800Hz (range: 200-3150Hz, Gain: +15/-24dB) Treble Center Freq: 1600Hz (range: 400-6300Hz, Gain: +12/-24dB)[/b][/i] The use of the shift button, that switches itself off after 20s inactivity, gives semi parametric adjustment of all EQ's again shown by the LED ring: There is a rotary input gain control with obligatory ring of lights and a clipping light and a rotary 'Tubetone' knob as well as the master volume. The amp also has 3 presets that incorporate the gain, EQ settings, both position and level and the level of tube tone. Also incorporated into the preset is the compression which is multi (3) level. The compression is multi level to address the issue whereby it's normally just the lower notes that control and dominate the compression in a simple single band compressor. The use of the shift button allows shifting of the EQ centres, adjusting the multi level compression, operation of which is illustrated neatly by the 'ring of light', and the control of the total range of the Tubetone. There is a tuner constantly displaying on the front panel of the amp and when the mute button is pushed (yes another button) the bass ring of light becomes a fine tuner indication. And then there's the floor control, a robust 4 button unit with a fine tuner display. Buttons are mute and the 3 presets and it comes with over 6 metres of sturdy lead. There is just the one speakon output on the rear of the amp necessitating daisy chaining the cabs but there is an input for a MP3/Tascam and a studio quality headphone amp. So features absolutely ooze out of every orifice. It's sounds really great. A little warmer than a LMII imo and my initial worries that it was light on juice were unfounded as unlike the LMII the master volume is very linear. It's very sturdily made and compact with a neat handle built in. It's not ultra light at 4Kg but the shoulder bag makes carrying a breeze with the pedal and bits and bobs fitting in nicely. It's well made and nowhere near as expensive as the LM equivalent. As for reliability, well I am a beta tester no doubt, watch this space. The TC Electronics website hosts many videos that ably demonstrate the function and features of the amp. [url="http://www.tcelectronic.com/rh450.asp"]http://www.tcelectronic.com/rh450.asp[/url] The Tubetone works well for my purposes, adding a wide range of subtle crunch that can be kicked in just when needed. Front Panel: Pedal: Rear: Handle: Bag:

I believe that Zoot cabs have gone through a recent transformation in terms of who actually makes them and how. I've heard that the original one's were less than reliable. Any owners like to comment?