GreeneKing

I'm quite happy to work through the wiring on my Thumb and take some photo's.

On the East pre there are 2 screw connectors for each pickup. They should be connected to the inner core of the white AND the braided wire. Don't connect the braided straight to earth/ground. You need a circuit connecting to the pre amp from each pickup. This may be your problem. See top of page 2 pickup inputs, 4 in number [url="http://www.east-uk.com/pdf/uni-pre.pdf"]http://www.east-uk.com/pdf/uni-pre.pdf[/url] and also bottom of page 5. If you connect the braided wire direct to ground it won't work. Peter

Alan, the sole luthier at ACG would by his own admission only make fretless basses if it were possible. He loves fretless bass music. If that doesn't tell you something about his fretless basses then I'm not sure what does. I bought his old fretless test bed bass from him. Eude's bass will be a bit special I'm sure.

[quote name='zvirus' timestamp='1481802941' post='3195255'] Again, is it my fault I play behind lines? Is it my fault that bass has 2 sets of holes? Is it friendly help?: [/quote] I'm not trying to be critical of you here just applying reason. If there are two bridge drillings, one for fretted and one for fretless with the design to fret on the fret line for correct intonation then if you refuse to play the bass as intended it's not really Thomann's fault. Peter

[quote name='police squad' timestamp='1481805187' post='3195279'] he only said serious money. He doesn't use it because he's a fiver man now. I asked for an idea of money but he just said serious money so I decided not to go there. I've got enough gear and it would have made an interesting story for a magazine and to get both the l/h and r/h reunited but, to be honest, I have found it and it was great to find it. Without the internet it would have been impossible. It's not the first bass I've found using basschat either [/quote] There's no reason they shouldn't be reunited for an article in a magazine anyway isn't there?

I'm sorry but I get the feeling that there's something not said in this thread? Thomann have very recently been tops with helping me out in a very friendly and supportive way. Was the other Squier you looked at also fretless? If not I think Pete has a good point.

[quote name='Sneleoparden' timestamp='1481796798' post='3195161'] Thanks for your responses. How it was before: The red wires from the pickups where connected with a red wire from the battery and red wire from the preamp. They were soldered together at.Thats why I believe them to be active, and the red wires to be power. the white wires from the pickups was soldered to one of the pots. From this point, two smaller white wires went to two different connectors/pins (?) on the same pot, and a non-insulated wire went to two other pots (this I believe is ground). [/quote] The white wires from the pickups - you do mean two from each pickup? i.e. the core and the braided outer? I think you are correct. My apologies re above, the red is the power. Re connection to the East preamp the core white is hot and the braided outer goes into the screw -ve connector. I do have the East pre in my Thumb and it you are still unsure I can retrieve it from my loft and open it up. It should be pretty much the same as your bass. Peter

Yep, Rics again.

[quote name='zvirus' timestamp='1481734037' post='3194689'] 2 rows of the holes been drilled [b]BEFORE [/b]painting and I can prove it(by taking pictures). Why will I or someone else move bridge towards the body`s edge If needed intonation set behind lines??? Still dont know is it fault or not? Bass is brand new NOT B stock [/quote] I know Thomann are usually nothing short of brilliant with their customer service. If, and that's if, they have offered to resolve this by accepting a return and you have chosen not to do so and propose to sort it yourself I don't see that they have any further obligation. I'm making assumptions here of course. Peter

Did you buy it B stock and have they offered to let you return it? If they have, and you choose to keep it then you'd probably be liable to sort it out,

I feel for you. It will be hard but you have to move onwards and upwards.

Excellent. Amazing performer.

ALARP. As Loud As Reasonably Practical

[quote name='chrisanthony1211' timestamp='1481647448' post='3194020'] Good point, getting my 9s and 3s mixed up...! [/quote]

Personally I wouldn't endorse Howard in the slightest. He left me minus a paid for replacement and an original scratch plate. I know he's been ill but I've heard absolutely nothing and gave up many months ago. I've been out of the loop more recently but he has my details. No apology or explanation has been offered.

[quote name='sk8' timestamp='1476526442' post='3154958'] [url="http://s420.photobucket.com/user/spongebob_sqaurepants/media/0EF90E1D-DDD1-49DD-BE39-FE8B5EFC84A8_zpswmtzqwgq.jpg.html"][/url] [/quote] A sad day for Mike but a great one for me. I've bought this custom COG and early impressions are very positive indeed. I'd like to say how impressed I am with Tom's help. I emailed him late last night from work, asking for some help with function of the controls. He was straight back to me saying that he's get to it in the morning as it was time for bed (I work nights). Before 8am I had personal instructions on how the controls function. More than impressed really. Peter

[quote name='BassBunny' timestamp='1481644441' post='3193971'] Problem is Peter that we don't seem to know how the pickups are powered. EMG's are easy there is an additional Red +ve that is used to power them. The MEC's only seem to have a Hot and Ground and I am struggling to see how they are powered up unless there is something unique about the MEC pre-amp. [/quote] I don't think that all MECs are active. Is it possible that they aren't active at all? In that case connecting them to the battery would be a major faux pau. I believe that the active MECs appear to have two wires but the white wire has an inner core (+ve power to pickup) and the outer braided wire is a common ground. I suspect you know this though Although if the OP has connected the red wine to 9v then it would be wrong as that is the pickup output hot wire. Inner white to 9v switched and braided wire ground, inner white is the pickup power not red. Thats as I remember it anyway. Peter

Shame you are in Denmark as I've done a fair bit of this, in fact a whole lot. The jack wiring is the culprit quite often and getting your head around it's switching via the -ve side is important. If struggling start from scratch and work out what is going on with the wiring.

I think that if you go for the simpler compressors they take a lot of the decisions out of your hands. I've got a Keeley Bassist that allows you to set threshold and ratio but the attack and release is down to the design function. The Doubleback gives you control of attack and sustain but threshold is a derived function. These sort of compressors are great if they are done well. The more expensive and featured units have all the adjustments at your fingertips but you need to know how to use them. The Keeley Bassist (and the Doubleback) work well in this respect but not all do. I've used the full rack all singing and dancing compressors and now find that the Bassist does the job really well. Peter

[quote name='chrisanthony1211' timestamp='1481614582' post='3193643'] I play through a Mark bass CMD121P with a NY12 extension cab, I never go over 12 O'clock and will often play at 3..... [/quote] Strange, as you have to go over 12 to get to 3.......

I'd suggest the Seymour Duncan 'Doubleback' and not just because I'm about to have one for sale A great resource is here: http://www.ovnilab.com Peter