Downunderwonder

I am over 50 and I get better every year. I think I would be ok staying the same but if I deteriorated I would have a hard time of it. I am still pretty mediocre though so it's no miracle of anti aging or anything like that. My main areas of improvement have been in my ability to hold time while drummers and others take diabolical liberties, even throw in my own diabolical liberties, and my abilty to draw expressive tone with fingers. I get way more compliments now than I did 20 years ago. I reckons the bigger part of those improvements would have come since age 50.

That's only because you have all the gear and you have buy in from the band. You wouldn't get any work in my backwater unless you carted monitors for everyone and then you would have to mix them as well. Why not just admit it's horses for courses?

I am reading all this to mean the neck is held on by fancy schmancy woodwork with no glue? Was the heel flush with the bottom of the guitar body before? If it isn't now and it was before, that would be a very good indication of drift of the joint.

I dunno, it would make the join that much more robust when you use it to bash your drummer over the head.

Agreed. It may very well handle 1000w thermal, but probably can't take more than half that mechanical Exhibit B.

Afaik no mainstream manufacturer uses 10" woofers with the kind of excursion capacity required to make good use of 250w each. They all do the thing of quoting thermal power handling per BFM's post. If Hartke were the exception they would be selling like hotcakes and BF wouldn't get a look in.

Except without the bass it wouldn't be quite right.

Barefaced unwittingly play into that myth. You are told you can use X000 watts amp but you must be using a clean tone. That's so you can avert destruction by hearing it start to complain before you go too far. If it's distorting with a clean tone the woofer is being made to travel beyond where it is happy.

Get off your high horse and acknowledge the rest of the world that often has no stage as such just a corner of the pub to set up in and play some tunes.

BFM will be along to correct you far more concisely than I could.

IEM has never rated a mention in any of my bands or offered at any of my gigs where sound is provided. I would be a very lonely bassist if I were to ditch amps for IEM.

Hope it is the same guitar you sent!

^ Just needs a bass guitar bridge to be the ultimate bottom end accessory. Wooden toilet seats are the shizzle in winter. Naturally antibacterial too.

And .36mm is ambitious on a budget instrument if you ask me.

Good luck with that rooster.

Two things. Hartke are not nearly in the same league as Barefaced. A burst of low end is what busts up woofers.

Same same. The 2nd channel was a boost. The third was boost with fx loop preselected. This enabled me to preselect the fx I wanted and either kick in with boost or not. If I wanted fx at standard level I could still kick them in on channel one and still go boost on channel 3 with one stomp. IOW clean, clean boost with delicious touch OD, clean with fx, boost with fx, pretty much one click from each other. The exception was from failing the double tap to get clean fx and getting Band B instead ( which had fx on 1 to save the day ) Neglecting to disengage B while skipping about over on Band B [which had identical off on fx channel 2 and 3 so no issue toggling back to Band meant no clean regular without a little twin tap dance, which ain't bad really! Needed an EQ pedal to put in some mids that the BDDI couldn't quite do.

Same because they are the same thing. Only the naming is different! As you know but many would not.

Can I sign on the basis that whatever nonsense you guys come up with makes it here in about 15 years?

Idiot question. I always thought pickups were designed with active or passive in mind so is it ok to blithely covert to passive?

It is quite simple, just not a one click process. Select model channel. Adjust all the knobs so nothing is flashing. That shows the knobs are in their preset stored positions. Select destination channel. Twiddle each knob up and back to where it was. Save. Now you should have a solid light and saved same as the model channel. Click over to the model channel. It should be the identical and twiddles up and back should go back to solid red also. I think that's it.

I wouldn't. Too many fudgy numbers flying around which means more power is almost never the answer.... 1000w is a pipe dream cab rating, and OP is looking at the low end response where the rubber hits the road. Class D amps usually get a notable bit over half of the rated output when pushing 8 ohms. 700w could easily be pumping out 500w thumps. I reckon he's pretty darn good for power. To make an appreciable difference the cab would need an actual thousand watts up it, and that would break it.

It would be a pretty simple job to solder in some extension splices. If you stagger the join by snipping the cable an inch or so apart then one piece of heat shrink can tidily cover the joint with no shorting. Remember to put your heat shrink on the cable before soldering.

If we use some typical figures your 410 should be around 101dB sensitivity and a 115 might be 97dB on a really good day. Let's say they have similar rolloff in the lowest frequencies of interest. Your amp might output 500W into the 410 and be on the edge of farting if you push it for lows. Let's say you can find a 97dB 115 that can handle 350w similarly, ulikely though. You are trading 150W less @ 101dB for 350w @ 97dB which is roughly a wash. But now your 115 is maxed while your 410 is having an easier time of it. Tends to break the 15 because you don't hear it complaining over the racket of the 410 in your ear hole. That racket sounds a hell of lot louder to you on stage but when push comes to shove it won't have more low end in it. At less than max output it will sound like you have a lot more headroom than you actually have. This is even more of a problem when you are basing this on the loud knob position.