warwickhunt

I have to confess that the GK stuff looks a bargain and my past experiences are that they are robust... result!

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1329681798' post='1545910'] Having a bass head and cab with Speakons only, and a couple of guitar combos wouldn't pose too many problems in that respect though, unless the clients were really ingeniously stupid. [/quote] Good point... until they start connecting several up! LOL

Your mate needs to take into consideration that a lot of folks using rehearsal rooms are complete fcukwits when it comes to using gear! Not all but you'd be amazed. Reliability and ease of use are paramount; my mate runs a rehearsal studio and he had LOADS of grief when he bought cheap cr4p the first time round and it took no time for the gear to die/get wrecked. Our own personal gear might get used a couple times a week (more if you use it in the house) and gets used by someone who knows how it works; rehearsal rooms can have gear running 12 hrs a day, 7 days a week and being used by folks who don't have the foggiest idea about input gain never mind ohmage issues (more in a second). As such I'd personally be looking at Peavey gear as it has a proven track record (old Trace gear stands up to abuse but then you are talking used). Also, though they may not be everyone's cup of tea I'd suggest combos rather than separates; reason being that I've known bands swap cabs around and plug multiple cabs in using all sorts of cr4ppy guitar leads and it is all too easy to have a bassist grab a bass amp and plug it into a guitar 4x12 (using some totally inappropriate cable) and before you know it you have a blown 'guitar' cab or worse if they stick a couple of 4 ohm cabs on an amp that operates at min 4 ohms and you have a fried amp (bonus of some of the Peavey gear is that it is safe down to 2 ohms... though you don't tell your rehearsal space customers that ). Not trying to put him off but he needs to assume that everyone is an idiot... then he won't be disappointed!

[quote name='sprocket123' timestamp='1329673907' post='1545676'] Hey buddy , do you happen to have a rear-ported cab on hand , if so , I was thinking like that also , so nothing s personal here , try playing true it ,then move the cab @ lots of places in the place,you ll haer the difference it makes sonically . That s why I want my cabs front ported , have a nice one out there . [/quote] No you are absolutely correct moving a cab closer to a wall for boundary reinforcement (or better still a corner) WILL make an audible difference but it won't matter if the cab is front or rear ported. Moving it 'too' close to the wall or corner can be detrimental but again it makes no difference if it is front or rear... and believe me, following on from a thread re. porting, I tried this.

[quote name='sprocket123' timestamp='1329661171' post='1545427'] Rear ported cabs can t be put in everywhere on stage , some time you don t have any choice but put where there s space . that s why I don t like them also . i like front ported , well tuned cabs with a flat frequency curve . [/quote] I was under the impression that scientifically it makes no difference if a cab is front or rear ported with regard to placement; a ported cab acts like a ported cab no matter where the port is. Sound doesn't come out of the ports so front or back is immaterial... a cab should be correctly tuned no matter where the port is!

The guy is having a punt and hoping there is some idiot out there with more money than sense! £12,000 would literally have to have been found in Leo's loft with the serial number 00000001 on it.

Real shame Clarky! Never mind, you know what they say; As one door closes, another slams shut in your face... hang on that's not right! Onwards and upwards matey.

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1329502639' post='1543566'] I'm fairly positive it is genuine. [/quote] The bass? The headstock looks the wrong shape (the G tuner is skew-whiff, though they do look like MM branded ones) and fake tattoos are easy to come by; the neck plate is all wrong (aside from the fact it isn't a MM plate it looks the wrong size and shape)... isn't it? The bridge also looks cheap even though the mounting screws are located as per MM, the addition in front of the bridge is immaterial. I genuinely had that tagged as a fake and wouldn't have touched with a BP at 100 paces!

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1329503100' post='1543578'] You realise that in three weeks time you will be announcing that you've changed your main gig to be a 3-piece blues band with one vocalist? [/quote] Fingers crossed it doesn't happen... though it will be overkill for the Cheap Trick tribute I have put together!

Can I clarify... that was NOT a Stingray? I only ask as the buyer (£700+) has left positive feedback! Now if this is a genuine buyer (as opposed to the buyer/seller leaving each other feedback to boost ratings or knowing each other), I'm tempted to contact him and point out that he has been fleeced but wonder if he is better left in blissful ignorance... until he comes to sell it!

Bought a 12 string bass from Steve and it was a trouble free deal. Cheers.

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1329482323' post='1543087'] Yeah looks pretty doable. A shot of the heel would be nice. Although the beauty of a one off job like this would be that you could shape the recess to fit whatever it is to be mated to. Not knowing the original, I presumed that it would have been chambered but looking at all that metal at the head it might knock the balance off. [/quote] The Hamer body is solid mahogany (not too thick tbh). Info and pics on the Hamer site as well as here... [url="http://www.12stringbass.net/"]http://www.12stringbass.net/[/url] Is it possible to give me a guesstimate as to the cost of a replacement body (likely with a nice top finished in 59 burst) and the whole lot assembled (bridge requires a rout into body).

Considering that if I want it to look tidy I might put a flame/quilt top... in which case is it worth chambering the body to keep weight down (leaving the centre section solid as there'd be a lot of tension between bridge and neck), especially as balance has been corrected by insetting the neck a bit further! However, I'm aware that a fancy veneer top (finished in a tasty 59 burst or similar to the Hamer above) will start to push the overall budget, which I'm trying to keep tight reins on; need to research the cost of the body blank and the cost of a top and spray finish.

[i]It might be hard to strike a balance between that and the right look, as the more you go into the body, the worse the upper fret access will be, if you keep the Hamer shape as is.[/i] Agree but if upper fret access is the main consideration then it is 'likely' less of an issue on an instrument like a 12 string. [i]Keeping the normal style bolt-on neck joint and carving the body to suit. Something that you would have to do, seeing as the neck is already carved.[/i] Agree again, as I am using a pre-existing neck I'd have to do it.

Further thoughts - If I set the bridge/tailpiece as far back to the edge of the body as possible then I could get the neck set further into the body and thus the top strap button would be nearer the 12th fret to assist balance/neck dive.

[quote name='eude' timestamp='1329475750' post='1542941'] Give Rich (Ou7shined) a shout, he might be able to help out... [/quote] Done!

Just wondered if you build guys can offer me some advice/ranting? I have a Galveston 12 string bass (BO neck) [IMG]http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g119/warwickhunt/100_2160.jpg[/IMG] ...and I'd LOVE a Hamer B12A [IMG]http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g119/warwickhunt/hamerb12a.jpg[/IMG] I wondered about the feasibility of taking the neck, hardware, electrics etc and making/getting a body in the style of the Hamer (obviously bolting the neck on as opposed to the Hamer's NT). I haven't fully thought through the fact that the Hamer is a Single-Cut, and how that impacts on bolting on the neck; the upper bout need not meet/touch it could be floating with a near invisible gap... help! Are there any obvious reasons why this would be a non-starter (bearing in mind there is no 'budget' Hamer B12A and the real deal will cost £2000+)?

Cheers people. I've got my head around uses for the various groups/buses and on most gigs I'm unlikely to use them other than to be able to tweak the level of all of the drums/vocals etc. I now understand though that I can pan a channel full left/right (labelled odd/even) and it'll assign the channel to group 1/2/3/4 depending upon button selection and then I can pan that group in the mix. Really nice desk and will mean that I no longer have to link x2 12 channel desks together. 4 monitor opportunities and 2 effects is a god-send as well.

I assume your B12 is the double cut model as opposed to the SC 'acoustic-look'? Can't believe Fender, that is so cr*p that it is too similar to their models! I'm keeping my eyes open for a Tom Petersson model (Hamer or otherwise) and funnily enough I have someone who will likely want this Galveston when I do.

I prefer the feel/tone of nickels so I'll not likely look a steels. Yes it is that Galveston; it has a wide flat neck (I'd not have expected a lesser wide neck considering what has to fit across it) and there is a little bit of neck dive but it isn't that bad and a wide (non-slip) strap virtually sorts that. The action on arrival was a bit much for me but I've now got it set up so that it isn't any more than my 4 strings. Intonation looks like it'll be OK to do (separate saddles for the drone/octave strings) but the little nut that sits the other end of the adjuster screw needs to be gripped while adjusting... not easily done with all of the strings on, so when I fit new strings I'll try and get it as close to what I expect before I string it and bring it up to tension. Research seems to show that the Galveston is made in the same factory as a lot of these cheaper 12s and the bridge unit is the same on all of them inc Dean basses. Just need to find a 'real-I-am' Hamer B12 now!

Sorry I (wrongly) assumed that we were talking of a 'Fender' bass, whereas this doesn't profess to be a Fender (though the Gumtree ad does clearly state Fender) and is in fact just a cheap P bass copy. The ZZ Top reference is spurious at best!

[quote name='Evil Undead' timestamp='1329313638' post='1540452'] Mine works without a battery, but then it's a $$. Not sure about other active models. [/quote] [quote name='warwickhunt' timestamp='1329313671' post='1540455'] ... there are a couple of exceptions (the most noticeable is the $$) to the rule! [/quote] Synchronised posting!

[quote name='throwoff' timestamp='1329312691' post='1540438'] Leftyhooks vette (used to be mine!) has passive pups so should work without a battery. [/quote] 'If' the pups are true passive and not the MEC active pups then yes it should work when/if a battery dies (assuming it has the push/pull pot to bypass the EQ) but the easiest way to establish is simply to unplug the battery and try the bass; as I said in my OP there are a couple of exceptions (the most noticeable is the $$) to the rule!

Thanks for that Alan I appreciate you looking into that but I think I'll go for a set of D'Addario's @ £25; a set of SIT's would be almost a 1/3 of the value of the bass! Cheers.