Velarian

Those bridge saddles still trouble me. I’d be interested to hear your thoughts on how suitable they are.

Same here.

Surely it’s just as easy to take a quick picture of the actual item as it is the light fitting in your front room? In fact I already have pictures of all my basses on my phone so it wouldn’t take any effort at all.

What is wrong with people! Why do they bother?

Welcome AmercanSwede. Re your question about posture, this video is a general bass 101 for beginners and covers this at 11:30. There are lots of videos on you tube of course as SBL isn’t to everyone’s taste.

BITD I had my 1977 fretted maple neck Precision made into a fretless. As nice a job as it was, 35 years later I regret doing that. I should have left it alone and just bought a fretless bass. So, if yours is an original fretless neck my advice would be just get another fretted bass.

My roadworn Precision which I bought used in 1980/81 or thereabouts. It was 3 years old in good condition when I got it. It was gigged regularly for about 5 or 6 years and the wear was caused by my own fair forearm and knocks from general usage.

I preferred the stock bridge actually. It sounded brighter and the hi-mass was softer at the top end. Would anyone notice in a mix? I tried a similar thing a while ago and didn’t really notice any difference, although this was on on a low-end squier precision, so not really working from the best sonic starting point. However, it did convince me enough to not worry about having a BBOT.

Pressed fibres. That looks like it could be the stuff used in the picture. It doesn’t strike me as being a particularly robust material, especially when thinking about how the height adjustment screws might interact with it. Given that the bass is a 1954 reissue and steel saddles were introduced the same year, it’s strange that Fender did not use steel in this version as it would still have been historically accurate.

I was watching a video about the 54 p-bass and noticed that the bridge saddles look like they’re made from some sort of composite material. Presumably this authentic to the period? Anyone know what this is? I’m guessing it wasn’t up to much and later versions were replaced with steel saddles.

You could try the Moises app which allows you to do a limited remix of sorts. https://moises.ai It has faders for vocals, drums, bass and ‘other’ so you can filter out the elements you don’t need. I’m not sure how successfully it manages some instruments but If you start with a backing track that already has one element removed then filtering out another element may be cleaner. For example I suspect that the transients of drums are harder to deal with so if you start with a drumless backing track then filtering out the bass should work quite well.

Apologies, I stand corrected. It appears that this was already covered on BC 4 years ago. That thread got locked so I won’t reference it here. Agreed, it was still cool. 😉

Ah yes, Marta Altesa. She played some gigs with Jamiroquai in South America and apparently ended up living in London. Her YouTube channel was pretty successful but she stopped posting 5 years ago. Anyone know what happened to her?

I think TLRTs are rationed to so many in a rolling 24 period. If you run out then wait and any you issued just over 24 hours ago will have expired and you get them back. Alternatively, if you’ve been overly generous you can steal some back by “unreacting” but I don’t think that’s regarded as being “cricket”! No idea why it’s like this though. There’s a thread on it here:

Looks like your guitarist might be wanting to muscle in on bass duties? Is that a Modern Vintage P-Bass on the right?

I don’t have any knowledge of these but I can see that there is pre-drilled hole for the bridge ground. Therefore the chances are that there’s a hole drilled between the corner of the pickup route and the control cavity. This is how it was with P bass body I got from Northwest Guitars.

Etsy is a good resource for stuff like this. https://www.etsy.com/uk/search?q=guitar knobs&ref=auto-1&as_prefix=guitar

It’s known as a hootenanny strap button. https://www.bestbassgear.com/ebass/gear/hootenanny.html

These go up to 11. What’s not to like? 😂

My last iPhone came with a USB C to C cable which was annoying because this was the first time they’d not actually included a charging plug; previous ones all having a USB A socket. However this solved the problem (£4 for a pack of three from Amazon).

I did this last year and it was a really enjoyable experience. In theory it sounds simple doesn’t it? Just bolt a few ready made bits together. In practice, depending on what bits you use and where they’re from it could be a little more involved than that and you may need to do a bit of fettling. Your first assumption that all J and P heel/neck pockets are the same is not necessarily true. I quickly discovered this with the cheap body I started out with. I ended up switching to a better quality body and that did turn out to be a perfect fit. However, I did have to plug and re drill the holes in the neck, which was a little learning curve, as was positioning and drilling the bridge mounting holes. I learned such a lot in the process of doing it and much of the information came from the good people here on BC. You may end up spending more than you intended (certainly more than buying a ready made bass), possibly including buying some tools, but the experience is worth it. Just go for it and post your progress here. We’ll be following with interest. Here’s my build thread for reference: -

I’m unlikely to ever need this information but it’s a fascinating thread nonetheless. 🫠

Thanks for the link. That’s really useful.

Ah yes, the Steel Pulse incident. Most unpleasant. 😕 I think I was somewhere near the back so managed to avoid it. However, as you say it was a glorious day, clear blue skies, hot and sunny.

Do you remember Big Country or were you well on your way by that time too? 😉