Paul Cooke

[quote name='Geek99' post='402669' date='Feb 7 2009, 10:40 AM']oh thanks, I thought you meant you had a way to do the whole caboodle in one go. I was aware of the footswitch click thing (reported) above. I do wish that the patch resource allowed you to download them as TXT, or as a zip of all then I wouldnt have to print each one. My PC and bass arent near to each other.[/quote] it doesn't even cut and paste very well into notepad either... anyway, here's my original post to basstalk [quote]dialed this up on my Zoom B2.1U for a nice phat sound: [code]COMP/LIM LN 5, 10, 88 Limiter WAH/EFX oF effect off DRIVE/Synth tU 1, 5, 34 Tube model ZNR/MIX nr E9, 88, 80 noise reduction LO EQ oF low pass off HI EQ HP SH, 80,-12 high pass shelf 800 Hz -12dB MOD/SFX SC 30, 29, 26 Stereo chorus 30% mod. 29 rate, 26% blend DELAY oF REVERB rN 12, 4, 76 reverb room model PEDAL Ct uL, bP, 80 control pedal to volume[/code] so far sounds nice. YMMV[/quote] and the thread it's in so you can find the original text versions of the others [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=297009"]http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=297009[/url]

ISTR the Squier VMJ has the bridge pickup in the 70's position, further away from the bridge. Please correct me if I'm wrong...

she has to bring the hat with the dangly bobbles...

[quote name='wmsheep' post='400517' date='Feb 4 2009, 10:59 PM']Some pretty instruments [url="http://www.bassuke.com/Gallery.html"]HERE[/url] Sorry if it`s the wrong forum!![/quote] I'm a bit confused how he can call them Ukuleles when they're tuned EADG... to me, they're just very short scale acoustic bass guitars... and you certainly can't play ukulele chord shapes on them

[quote name='hubrad' post='399951' date='Feb 4 2009, 01:35 PM']Go on.. bite the bullet.. get a double! My last car was a Punto, so you don't have to have an estate.[/quote] it's not the car that's the problem, I live three flights up with no lift and in a small flat... there's just no way of getting it up those stairs easily or storing it when not in play... I can hang my basses and guitars on the walls... can't with a DB. a Double Bass would require finding a larger place to live in...

[quote name='Deep Thought' post='399427' date='Feb 3 2009, 09:31 PM']Straplock-wise I like Schallers, although they are not a 'fit and forget' item-you need to keep an eye on them to ensure the nuts aren't coming undone (I always carry the appropriate spanner these days) and that the strap buttons aren't coming out of the body-their screws are a bit thinner than Fender ones, and I've had to reglue mine in more than once-the alternative is drilling out the Schaller buttons a bit which I may try next time.[/quote] that's what I did with mine where the Schaller screw was thinner than the original screw... on some, the Schaller screw was beefier anyway, so using them was an improvement.

[quote name='BigRedX' post='399108' date='Feb 3 2009, 04:26 PM']Nowadays when you get a good set they're cracking, but I'm still finding that 1 in 4 sets a bit dodgy.[/quote] doesn't help that they do not seal the packets and heaven knows how long some sets spend on display in the shops... or on the shelf...

all bottom, no zing, no finger noise... I've got mine on a fretted bass, so don't know how much bloom and mwaah they have... but they make my fretted acoustic bass sound more like a double bass than a big acoustic guitar... I hate phosphor bronze strings... too zingy, too much finger noise. I tried Picato flats on it, but it was too dead... far more life with the LaBellas on it...

LaBella Black Nylon Tapewounds... Rotosound TruBass both the above are black... both however, have nylon tape outer covers, not flatwound wire.

[quote name='neepheid' post='397686' date='Feb 2 2009, 11:21 AM']Not very helpful, but if the neck snaps, then it couldn't take it.[/quote] it's not the neck that's the problem... excessive tension would pull the bridge or soundboard off before the neck snapped... or else you would run out of adjustment on the truss rod. From what I can tell on the web, an acoustic guitar (and by corollary bass) would only really have problems if left in a car out in the sunshine. The excessive heat would then cause the glue between the bridge and top to slacken and the bridge to separate from the top or else the top pulls away from the internal bracing spreaders... this will happen with normal "as supplied" strings if you leave it in a hot car. [url="http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/care.htm"]http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/care.htm[/url] [quote]"Excessive heat can soften glue joints and allow things to slide around. One of the most common predicaments I see on flattop guitars as a result of excessive heat is a sliding bridge. Once heated the bridge can lift or actually begin to slide towards the soundhole, scrunching the paint as it slides and twisting the bridge pins into a crooked shape. And while this is easily spotted there are other areas of the instrument that can be adversely affected as well. Frets, neck joints, braces and literally anywhere glue is used can be affected in a way that is difficult to reverse."[/quote] I have no idea where this "Old Wives Tale" has originated from that thou shalt not fit flats to an acoustic bass... apparently, on Basstalk, someone once did it and their bass broke... I personally suspect the bass was left in a hot car and he/she blamed the flatwounds rather than their own stupidity for leaving it in the car. It's rather amusing, as a lot of posts there tell you to fit flats for a fretless acoustic bass, but not to a fretted acoustic bass as it'll break it... which is daft, as the only difference in construction is the lack of frets and the different fingerboard material, the bridge and soundboard is the same. My bass is available in two different versions, fretted and fretless, the only difference is the lack of frets. If you're worried about voiding your warranty, well then, wait until the warranty expires before fitting tapewounds.

I have LaBella Black Nylon Tapewounds on mine... no zing at all, no string noise... just pure bass...

[quote name='martinbass7750' post='394317' date='Jan 29 2009, 08:18 AM']You could always remove the pre-amp part of the electrics[/quote] would leave a big ugly hole... Getting a guitar shop luthier/technician to desolder the connections to the battery box and jacksocket and tying them back would probably be better. It would then be a simple reversal to recommission them prior to selling them off or if one was needed to be amplified for a concert. ps. Steve, I've found this one: [url="http://www.reverb-store.co.uk/product-detail.asp?prod=722"]http://www.reverb-store.co.uk/product-detail.asp?prod=722[/url] [url="http://www.absolutemusic.co.uk/shop/view_product.php?product=avsmsb1"]http://www.absolutemusic.co.uk/shop/view_p...product=avsmsb1[/url] from the writeups, it only has a passive pickup, no electrics onboard at all and it has a short scale and small body. (It's intended as a travel bass) here's the manufacturer's page for it: [url="http://www.alvarezgtr.com/prod_page.php?SeriesID=1&ItemID=119"]http://www.alvarezgtr.com/prod_page.php?Se...&ItemID=119[/url] It would be very easy to disable it and plug the jacksocket hole up

one's just appeared on Gloucester Gumtree... he's wanting £600 [url="http://gloucester.gumtree.com/gloucester/16/33856416.html"]http://gloucester.gumtree.com/gloucester/16/33856416.html[/url] no photos though... he can provide pictures though

doing some rock covers and I was wearing a wig... forgot about the length of my "hair" when I went over to headbang with the guitarist... got my wig tangled in his headstock and when I pulled back, the wig came off...

[quote name='Zach' post='391348' date='Jan 25 2009, 11:40 PM']All sounds like good advice, seems like i'm gonna have to go buy some sponges! Have any of you had experience with rotosound trubass Vs La bella deep talking' strings? Since they seem to be the best two to buy, especially since they're only £23 on stringbusters (presume they're the cheapest site?). Also, don't worry Chris, I've passed on the message via facebook, shall let you know his response.[/quote] don't use Rotosound TruBass, they are very thick and would need work on the nut. LaBella black nylon tapewounds can usually squeeze into a nut cut for standard gauge

£200? well that's me out of the loop then... My Vintage V950B, Tanglewood Warrior IV and my Squier VMJ are all officially above that point based on their as new prices... My Peavey Millenium BXP was only £149... I really regret selling that one, but it enabled me to purchase the Tanglewood Warrior IV...

there's one of mine in there under my alter ego... [url="http://www.haax.se/basspatches/manualsite/show.php?unit=B2&ID=13"]http://www.haax.se/basspatches/manualsite/...it=B2&ID=13[/url]

they did Radiodread... an album of Radiohead "OK Computer" covers... better than the originals in my book... there's some samples here: [url="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Radiodread-Easy-Star-All-Stars/dp/B000GUJZ5K"]http://www.amazon.co.uk/Radiodread-Easy-St...s/dp/B000GUJZ5K[/url]

they're a pain... and I've had one pop off while playing... luckily the strap stayed on so I didn't find myself playing "catch the Bass"... They only work well with straps that have thin ends and a bass with conical profiled strap-pins... always amazes me how cheap people can be when it comes to securing expensive basses... for real cheap and reliable (but not quick to change basses with) use Grolsch Bottle washers... anything else, use proper metal straplocks... I switched to Schaller for all mine... you can source the end-pins separately which means you don't have to purchase a complete assembly for each bass...

Peavey Max 126 is a nice little practice amp... has CD/MP3 player input and headphone out...