moley6knipe

The best method is to build yourself a tube out of waste pipe (push fit is better than cementable pipe coz the meths will rot the cement eventually) and fill it will meths, hook in the top end cap and hang your strings in there for 12 hours or so. Then remove and let air dry. Pros: cleans ALL grease etc off strings so they sound new again (of course won’t fix physical string damage from frets!) Cons: unless your bridge is a top loading “quick release” eg Ibby monorail, hipshot A etc it’s a major pita to unstring! I built one but don’t use it so much these days as only one of my basses has quick release style bridge.

It’s a 5 ply guard, so a touch deeper than standard… at certain angles it IS pleasing to the eye 😁

Thanks! Superb shout on the brown tort, this is your doing…. My hat is off!

And here’s the finished thing…. New brown tort guard. I love it! Needs a new pickup selector tip though…. Forgot about that! 😁

Seriously: get a second hand Barefaced BB2 Gen 3. Or if you want to make the audience soil themselves, a Twin. You’re done. Your Trace head is *proper* watts. I’ve gigged my BB2 with a TC 250 head and no problem keeping up with the drummer. Get a modern hyper-engineered cab instead of a new head would be my vote.

If GK made an amp with a Trace UV light I’d be like “shut up and take my money”

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2m-UK-Plug-to-2-x-C13-IEC-Mains-Power-Y-Splitter-Cable-Kettle-Lead-PC-Monitor-/401575174816?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 These can be a good option for saving a socket in low power draw scenarios too

And yeah - PSUs that need an external power brick rather than an IEC are a major PITA in my opinion! One more thing to hide under your board, versus just using “any old kettle lead” to power them

Can’t see why not…. As long as you can access the outlet from your board. Unless they’ve done something non standard an IEC *should* pass up to 10 amps and there’s no way a wedge is pulling anywhere near that power

Not used one but have used HB isolated PSUs in the past and it was great. That’s a good amount of power especially for the money and (if you can find one!) adding a GigRig Isolator to one or more of the outputs would let you split a 500mA out to four 135mA outs to get more outlets (granted 4 x 135 = 540 so you couldn’t draw the max on all four outlets from the GigRig). And yeah the IEC out will just pass AC thru for “whatever”. No brainer for the price I’d say!

Absolutely this. If I had the cash and the pedalboard space, personally I’d have a Keeley Bassist at the start of the chain, and engage as needed to tame peaks in dry sound or squash the sound to work with downstream effects, AND I’d put another at the end of the chain as a limiter. But I’ve settled for one at the end always on at around 4:1. Means the worst excesses of my synth sounds are tamed before hitting the amp. Play around with the order is the best bet here

I can’t wait for my brown tort guard to arrive…. Still got weeks to go but I’m excited!!

Sure!! Everyone should have a spare, right?

The gold is even nicer in my opinion!

@gorandelac - nice board. Morningstar for the win!

Blue is niiiice.

Great choice. Brilliant colour. Massively under rated are these basses. As has been said I also get why they didn’t sell - wasn't because they’re not good. The asymmetric neck profile is so right: a proper epiphany for me. The quality and parts are great. I’m an 18v active 3 band and dual buckers guy so this is spot on, the coil taps are a nice bonus. The EQ is doubtless not the best on the planet but the range and EQ points are fine. Does it sounds like a ‘Ray? Still no, coz really and properly only 2 band EBMM ‘Rays with parallel alnico pickups really sound like ‘Rays IMHO 😀 Does it sound like a P? Not really, no. Does it sound like a J? Yeah, you can get close enough. Do all of the switch positions produce great sounds that are a bit Fender but their own thing really? Yes! Does the front pup with mid boost reasonably hard into a good comp and then a GK sound utterly perfect to me? Yes! It’s bright: mine’s wearing 1.5 yo round D’addario Nickel XLs and they still sound good to me. Previously I used to change (steel rounds) like every 4th gig. And it’s been well played at home during lockdown of course 😎 My 2014 Deluxe USA HH fiver… 10lbs on the nose, and being treated to a replacement brown tort four ply guard from WD at the end of August!

The IEC extension cable is a good idea, even where the socket is accessible, to take the strain off the PSU itself. I need to find a really short right angle (in my case can only be angled in one way else it won’t work) female to male IEC. Worst case chop the plug top off an existing right angle and put a rewireable IEC male on there… but over the years I’ve yet to find a rewireable one that doesn’t suck!

@AJ567 - that’s next level ‘boarding, my hat is off to you. The GigRig stuff is great - I snagged a 2nd hand isolator which lets me split a 500mA out on my CS7 to four of my pedals. Great solution!

Back on topic though: I’ve yet to go class D / small but when the current big iron box goes bang it’ll be class d for sure. In my head this will be: killer preamp pedal (preferably that allows MIDI control) into a class D power amp that gets me 350w or so at 8 ohms. The problem with this is that the mixing desk sits on top of the RB + flight case nicely at the moment and I won’t want a full size 3U case holding a tiny amp 🤔

Gallien Krueger for the win here… I have loads of knobs on my RB and they’re all flat / off because it sounds soooo good! 😂

Same for me with the C4 - it’s replaced octave fuzz and filter pedals AND it can make any synth noise I could conceivably use. But it does need MIDI and setup time for sure. If you can add one using your setup, I’d recommend adding an expression pedal for even more fun! I’ve started making some nasty fuzz sounds, investigating foldover options. I want to make some chordy things for some song intros. And a sequencer. And. And. And…