itu

If your box is made of thin plywood, you need to have lots of braces to make it hard and tough enough. You want light, you need to sacrifice something: https://www.grbass.com/aerotech/ They seem to have a dealer in Finland. I put some extra money to my cab, although amps look better with lights and knobs and all that, so I have a 2 x 12" aluminium cab which weighs 18 kg. I think it is already pretty light. A wooden 2 x 10" and under 15 kg, well, you may have pretty poor efficiency or the lowest frequency rises well over 60 Hz. Cheapo cab, cheap sound. There is a nice thread here about a diy lightweight cab with pics. Check that out.

Source Audio Reflex is fine but discontinued. Not a single unit in Reverb or anywhere else. There are few fairly priced adapters, but most work with USB only. I found an older DigiTech unit, MC2. I will let you know about the functionality with the FI later on.

I have tried to find a small footprint exp/vol pedal to handle MIDI events. Success has been, well, no success. There is one very good (do not recall the brand now), but the manufacturer said it was too expensive for them. All suggestions welcome, smaller footprint is better.

I do not care about the others, but I have had a chance to play a similar black Buzz. Gorgeous sound and feel. Congratulations!

Watts are not about loudness, dBs are. My Glockenklang Soul combo was 38.5 kg (measured), which was the only reason I separated the amp (12 kg) and the cab (go figure) from each other. It was far easier to carry one at a time. I actually bought a lighter 2 x 12" cab. Soul amp is only 440 W, but that seems to be enough power to drive any cab in a band context. Those Trace watts would probably be enough, too.

I find Yahayas boring. What were Nathan and John playing? I don't like Mondays. Sorry, Bob G. was faster. P & J and especially PJ basses do not make me feel so good. A Pedulla Pentabuzz sounds incredible! Approximately 76 band eqs, no... Vigier has a functional semiparametric. Relics, sorry, definitely NO. I... have played a really nice Limelight. Light colored fingerboards and tops, cheapo looking and feeling parts (BBOT, anyone?). And then I saw this red F bass with a maple fretboard. Simple and easy, as always. This is a bit like concepts: I do know what it does not look like. Hey, wait!

You need a DMM (digital multimeter) with recording function, or try to read the measurings while playing. Max and min values of the voltage and the current tell about the battery's ability to push energy to the circuitry. If there is a notable drop in voltage, your issues are related to the battery. Then you can put another in parallel. Start with the measurements.

This reminded me of a microphone I did quite some time ago. I had a connection to a company that builds acceleration sensors (MEMS). I made the preamp, which is actually a power supply and a HPF. Filter is a must because the thing goes down to DC: the signal was heavy stuff to my then Peavey Databass combo. Its upper frequency limit is low, maybe 500 Hz or so, have to measure it. The mic would benefit from some other technology, like piezo or film. That C-ducer is also somewhere here... some mixer is in need, too... It is about time to find them and try the set to a fretless.

Refreshing to see VW with some other bass. Lady Kaye is still going strong. No this is not a battle. Would be nice to see the eyes of the shopkeeper, when this trio walks in and starts some jamming.

I was pretty sure about that, but my inner engineer wanted to put it out. My apologies, @40hz

Well, as the technology is still coil & magnet, the pickup itself limits its frequency response. Lower impedance helps to reach higher end, but even a pretty mediocre condenser outperforms any c&m pickup easily. Another story is that a Lane Poor sounds different than some other pickup.

I like King Sunny Ade and his African beats. Juju music is one good record. Island had many interesting artists in the 80's. And the labels were day and night. I heard Fatoumata Diawara few years ago, and liked the band.

Ned Steinberger's prototype is on sale at Reverb now for 32 400 €. First asking was 37 k€. https://reverb.com/item/32333075-alembic-series-ii-walnut This Alembic is priced under 30 k€. http://www.alembic.com/prod/prices.html Ritter is a good brand to hunt for higher prices, so is Auerswald, if you can find one. I know this just a "g-word": https://reverb.com/item/12167937-auerswald-viva-heavy-3-of-10 Of course you can take a look at the bigger side: https://www.isbworldoffice.com/bass-sell.asp One had an asking price of 100 k$.

Oh dear, even a Atlansia Solitaire. How was it @BigRedX?

It was Patrick Eggle, and I found a nice set of stuff here: http://jacaranda-music.com/UKGuitars.html

I remember someone making basses that had something not neck-through nor set-neck, but the neck was going to the bridge or similar.

ACG Alpher Anaconda Ashdown Bass Centre Burns Chowny Crimson Guitars Enfield Everson Basses (!) Goodfellow or GB Guitars (basses!) Gordon Smith JayDee Limelight McIntyre Overwater SEI Shuker Status Wal Wilcock Wilkes guitars (basses!) Zoot ...these have been mentioned so far... ...and here are some more: http://jacaranda-music.com/UKGuitars.html

The availability is not the thing, but the price is. Nickel is simply cheaper, 0.34 U$D/lb, while stainless is 1.06 U$D/lb. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/String_(music)

https://shop.mitutoyo.co.uk/web/mitutoyo/en_GB/mitutoyo/1341988815793/index.xhtml

I can play a gig with a four or five string fretted. I can play a gig with a fretless 4. A double bass is also functional. Lately I have been considering, if I could play a gig with a fretless 5. I am looking at the picture of James J. and I think that the right amount of instruments is "one more". (I sold 7 instruments around a year ago. I think there are only 6 left. And a bass synth.)

If your choice is magnets, make a small shape for a plectrum to open the cover.

Are you going to use magnets for the cover or screws?

Very good notes from Mr. Cribbin! One Hakko, some good tin and training, please. Weller and Metcal make good units, but they may be quite pricey. If you want to be like a pro, that Hakko and few different tips will make you happy. Clean the tip between solderings!

Stainless steel. If you need lots of twang, try a 30 - 90 set.