itu

D class can be seen reliable because if two things: there are very few solutions available (lots of testing), and they are built in pretty big numbers. This means that the amps can be seen built under only few power sections and few amp sections. Big amounts of stuff equals testing and reliability. It is easy to understand that there may have been first batches of amps that were not so reliable. On the other hand the repairability is the result of making the units small and light. (I've seen a switching power changing from a powerful box to smoke. The components were practically turned to dust. Most of the PCBA and the components just vanished. Yes, it was a tad too small.)

This may mean that the jack is faulty, or rather its soldering has broken. This is pretty easy to see by opening the base plate. Put the power plug into it and move it a little bit.

Have you tried it with a fresh battery?

The first thing to do is to contact local customs. They tell you the details to this particular case. It should be no costs (nor VAT), because this is about repair, and the only company is out there to be able to fix your dear effect. If there is something you have to declare or anything, my experience has been positive with them. If the first contact does not work, call another office. At least I have had good discussions and gotten good piece of information. It may be good to have the serial number, manufacturer, and the model at hand while calling.

My MG Genesis has chechen board, and the neck is a combination of wood and carbon (spine). There's a truss rod, too, but it is useless. Functional, but useless.

Both Passion II basses I own have similar fretboards that could be phenolic resin.

There's a neat story here about Overwater. Use find.

Would it sound strange, if you would go and tell the drummer, that the hihat is ugly, or the keyboardist should only play Rhodes? I parted from my Quantum 5 only, because the string spacing was 17 mm. Now I play a Genesis 5, which has 19 mm spacing and suits me better. I did not ask my fellow players whether it fits their taste.

Bolt-on neck can be put together from shorter wood strips, and the warping can be handled a bit easier. Also the bolt-on neck can be shimmed, which is not an option with a NT. Well, the bridge is... The comments, or rather descriptive words, are not possible to use everywhere. My Quantum SPi had far more compressed sound than my fretless NT, or Passion II. I do understand that there is a need for simple words. There just isn't a list of terms that is comprehensive and mutually accepted. You are right that instruments vary a lot. Sometimes I wish woods would be more even in quality. We are able to find the subtle details, because the variation is there.

You tell us that bigger parts of instrument quality woods cost as much as smaller. I don't think so. Those big chunks of usable wood are rare, and expensive, than let's say a fretboard. Try to find a one piece body of some hardwood and you may be amazed of the price. If a luthier wants to produce instruments that are loyal to some design, or that the construction serves the machinery of the shop, it is another story. This bolt-on vs. NT and those irrational comments about sustain and "punch" are just funny. Without real world blind tests the words are meaningless. And as woods are not as consistent as many man-made materials, the same design sounds very different from unit to another. Tonewoods, constructional differencies, no more of this, please.

Pretty grave simplification. I would say this is a feel-based opinion rather than scientifically measured and ABX tested. What's your research data, and where can we find it?

Stan the Man - Alembic - Carl Thompson - Löwenherz - Spellbinder - EBS - strings, power amps, cabs... - all the double bass stuff...

The kink should be bent back. It is not easy but far more effective than trying to break it with higher tension. Take your time.

And that instrument is...?

Vigier Passion series II 5-string wide carbon neck basses in see-through red. Fretted and Delta metal fretless. Ability to train myself in a thought manner towards a multistyle and thinking player. No extra notes anymore. But this topic was about dreams and dreaming.

Which year was this? MG hadn't truss rods until late 1990's.

- fretted 5, sometimes a fretless or an EUB - amp - cab and its cover - FX board & page flipper in a mono bag - tab (notes, scores) - tab stand The bass mono bag has neatly coiled cables, tuner, tab, spare set of strings, spare battery, tools, foldable scissors, DMM, ear plugs... If I am taking two electrics, I use the mono dual bag. Amp rack case has power and cab cables.

Noll Mixpot. The first situation might work with an HPF before the Mixpot. The Mixpot has adjustable inputs on both channels.

What's your x-over frequency at the moment? I've stuck to 400 Hz.

There are other electronic devices, too, that run on Phantom power: preamps, DI-boxes... It is a power supply that is usually around 9 - 52 VDC (tolerances included), and few milliamperes. P48 is very common. Electret condensers are usually fed with less voltage, like from 1.5 to 12 VDC.

...but doesn't.

Historically the bass (tuba etc.) has been the lowest sounding instrument. But nowadays we have multi string instruments, we have piccolo strings, short scales, synthesizers and so on. I think that if you use your instrument like bass, it is a bass. The form or the design does not hinder us, bassists. (By the way, check g-word players, most of whom are doomed to play only Stratos, Teles, and LesPauls. Maybe there is some Youngster trying to play an SG, or even a PRSantana, but those instruments may be too radical in the long run.)

As an owner of two Passion series II basses, and that I have had the chance to play few others, I have to thank him for producing quelques instruments extraordinaires. Vigier wasn't my first lesson in French. But very important. Merci beaucoup, M. Vigier.

No problem, the coating is so thin, that it bends easily. It will not break. Silver will oxidize after time. I have seen silver getting tarnished under a thick clear plastic. It just took longer, but as plastics are not hermetic in the long run - years - the oxide got through. I suppose that whitish metal can get spotted over the years. To clarify things: It does not affect performance.