itu

Just add Broadcaster. Why not Fender LocalRadioster version? Or AMster built in the Netherlands.

My Status, Modulus Graphite Quantum, and Vigier necks have been hollow, except MG Genesis (carbon spine). The heel part may be filled with some material, like wood. That talkbass builder, Marko Ursin, has built many interesting basses.

When mixing several systems, it is not so uncommon to build problems in the overlapping frequency area. Again, a real time analyzer (RTA) and a good X-over can solve many issues. One thing to remember is that ear gets used to any sound - even to bad one - quite quickly. And louder sounds better, although that's poison to your ears until it's too late. Do several measurings like once a week until you feel comfortable with your system. Sometimes a friend visiting and listening to your system could open up interesting details. Loudness is one thing you should understand. Measure some levels, and compare them to the board's master. Write down the levels somewhere: a 10 dB difference is much, but you can approximate the loudness with those steps, 0 / 10 / 20... remember that everything over 85 dB(A) may cause a possible hearing damage in the longer or shorter run. Doubling the power (88 dB(A)) halves the "safe" listening time. 120 dB(A) isn't that far away. These figures are averaged, and your hearing may be more sensitive to loud sounds, than someone else's.

If the jack was faulty, it would have been Switchcraft. Where's that coat...

Sly & Robbie, anything from them.

@KingBollock A simple switch may be too simple, but a rotary one would solve your need.

I might guess these are from D'Addario.

Because of interest, and I happen to have some materials at hand, I tried few materials. PC and POM work well, PP is a bit brittle. Teflon is slippery, and could be the best choice.

Not very special for a s/he with a decent soldering station and quite a bit of skills.

Rubber O-rings will come out. The pressure is so big. PMMA is too brittle, but oily plastics like PP, PE, and polyacetal might work well. They are quite easy to machine, too. A cheap trial could be a small, clear storage box made of PP, cut it to pieces and drill holes to it. Carefully cut or file to size.

Should I print "sarcasm" over my previous comment?

If I hate B. Springsteen's voice, but I've heard few very good versions of his songs sung by someone else, are his songs good? If someone voted for democraps or republican white trash, is it OK to listen to the great music that idiot made? If late Wolfgang Amadeus Beetroot had controversial opinions, and even actions, can we consider symphony no. 9 a masterpiece? (By the way, he received money from his work, so he can not be a divine artist, but just a simple workhorse, no?)

Replacing is very easy: detune the bass (loose strings), open the screws, and replace the washers/bushings. To be honest, I am not sure what material is the bushing. I think it could be PP, PE, POM. Where to get those, no idea. A local plastic shop sure could help.

Cream colour, could be a DiMarzio.

Series/parallel means that in parallel mode the adjustments are like in an ordinary PJ. Series overrides the other vol and puts the pickups in series. You get another sound out of it. If you override the tone (and maybe even vol pots), the higher end will be emphasized a little bit, and there's slight bump in volume. With a rotary switch and some tinkering you can get few more sounds. I warn you though: many of the possibilities sound practically the same. You end up using one or two options the most. How do I know this...

I'd call that a double exposure.

Pictures? Do you need any switches? Kill switch, rotary for tones or pickup connections (ser/par/single)?

27" scale, these are tiny.

Me blind, sorry. If you have a DMM, check the resistance. It may give a hint of the type. If you have magnet, or a compass, you can check the polarities. Side by side humbucking pickups, like Status, the magnets are opposite, half N and half S. https://www.aguilaramp.com/wp-content/uploads/aguilar-pickup-DCB-5J.pdf These are side by side humbucking.

https://www.avbasses.com/en/contact/ After asking Ales, you will tell us, don't you?

I happened to get a used V2 for a reasonable price. I tried it few days ago in a rehearsal. Amazingly functional. The one knob UI is very easy, and the switch + coloured LED helps to find sounds. The glitches of the OC-2 are absent. I think I like the voicing. Adjusting is easy, but there are still lots of sounds. One knob approach helps. This is most probably a keeper. Addition: Now I have been using this for a week. The simple UI is a breeze, I can dial minimal amount of grunt from the pedal easily. Some distortion is naturally there but it seems to add positive extra to my sound, especially in a band context. Next step is to try this with a HPF. OC-2 type of glitching is practically missing.

You are close. There are EMG preamps with active mixing, but not every set has a mixer. Some have very basic passive blend. WALs multi coil pickups (certain bartolinis, too) could be driven coil by coil. It is possible. It is possible with piezos, too. The system requires few buffers, and is easy to build. Noll has the Mixpot that works with two pickups. It is like very spartan John East or EMG, i.e. no tone control. But because the mixer does not reduce the response of neither pickup, the output is different from pot based blend. I put that Mixpot after bartolinis, and before the bartolini TBT preamp. Yes, the sound of the bass became much better (but this is subjective!). I could have built one more buffer between the mixer and the tone stack, namely an active volume. Then the set would have been like J. East. But the change in sound with the Mixpot was already so substantial, that I was happy. True that I could have put the vol after the tone stack... maybe that's the next step.

Where's Gretsch Bikini, when I wanted to see one?

Very good! Ear is very sensitive in that area. No wonder there has been ringing. Hope your studio will serve you well.

A phone is not the most accurate device, you could still try one with a loudness tester as well as an RTA (real time analyzer) application. I might start with 1 kHz sine and move to few other frequencies. 20 Hz and 20 kHz are most likely no go, but something between 100 and 2k may give you a hint of what's going on. Attach the phone steadily to the listening place and aim the mic to one speaker. Use only one speaker while measuring. Study a bit what does A-weighing mean before anything else.