itu

That. Was. Evil.

That's a good one. A low cost solution that is easy to use and apply.

...equals the right amount of basses is +1.

No one has mentioned Kustom? alusonic makes aluminium cabs (12" and 2x12"). You can choose custom colours to the frame and the front grille. https://www.alusonic.com/aluminium-cabinets.php

Hill street blues theme Eagles - One of these nights Walk on the wild side Practically any jazz song is good for fretless. Long, singing notes sound very different. I think fretless is best suited for simple lines. All extra can be cut away, and still - or because of that - sound so good.

I tried to make a list of necks and options proposed so far. I am not quite sure if all options are available to every neck. I suppose that depends on the interest. - J (£450) - P (£450) - MM (£480) - MM5 (£480) - normal nut - slim nut - frets 20/22 - fretless - no dots / unlined - dots / lined - blocks (+£30) Prices do not include P&P.

This is something I do not like: do you really have to play so loud that you need ear protection? How about the rest of the people in the gig? Should you provide ear plugs to them, too? To play hard is different from playing loud. If you need to play loud, try to understand why. Maybe a change in the setup on stage or placement of amps can help to tame high volume. Like the g-word player stands beside the amp, which is on the ground and the player cannot hear the direct sound = trebly +100 dB. A BIG MISTAKE. Suggest this: https://www.thomann.co.uk/thomann_amp_stand.htm

I built a pickup maybe 25 years ago that can handle low frequencies, DC - 400 Hz. It is made from an acceleration sensor. Small, but goes really low, even too low (DC). I made a HPF to it because amps were really hot after some playing: the directional component was too much to most amps I tried. Needs a power, like a 9 V battery. Not so good by itself, because of so limited response but could take care of the low end. Sensibility is comparable to other pickups available. I got the sensors from a certain manufacturer. They did not limit the response in production, and therefore it goes so high. Many units are limited to, say 100 Hz.

As said many times before: alcohol earliest after the gig. You are there for them. Give the best out of you, not the worst. Do not change anything that may change itself a day before the gig like strings. You can change a battery a week or two before. Then you can be sure that it works flawlessly. A new battery may be bad, seen this a couple of times. A quality cable is a must. A spare one is needed by a g-word player - sooner or later. And as said earlier: have fun. Everybody sees your feeling, and feels it in your music. If you go and see professionals, they can create a good sounding feeling no matter what. Do not care about tiny failures, they feel big only at the stage. Go forward, and do it boldly! P. S. Buy a quickly adjustable metronome to your drummer, and let him write tempos to the set list. You will love your drummer from that on. For example Tama RW30 can be quickly set. It is an investment, not a cost to you, believe me.

Could you make a short article here about it, please?

But who has a Vigier Nautilus?

How about pushing the preamp to mimic a P pickup? At least that's what the preamp is there, to tweak the sound. Added with the place of your right hand you should be able to get a P'ish thick sound.

If the balance of the pickups is fine, simply turn up the gain of your amp. B string may sound similar to other strings or not. But when you change strings, you can try different ones to find the right for you. I had a MG Quantum 5 that sounded best with a 120, so thicker is not automatically better. Congratulations, you seem to have bought lots of bass. Now go and play a lot!

If you buy it, do not start about putting frets to it, no!

I started w/ piano at the age of 5, turned to bass when I was 17 (an excellent decision; no.year.yes.I.am.old) basses: 10 ish theory: pretty good, like a tad under 9 trechmiqure: not mcuh more than 7 groove: say 8, timekeeping is my thing

Is the truss rod 2-way, and what kind of a adjustment does it have? Wheel/nut?

...and where did the thread went? "You don't have the permission..." Has @Kiwi been talking to my ex?

Eight note overflow here! Slow down a bit @Bilbo!

Stolen from these pages. Last one could be about basses, too.

This may be from my faint memory. Ned Steinberger said in a interview, that he was trying to get rid of ghost notes. He cut a piece from the headstock, and continued it until there was no headstock left. Ghost notes rose to heights they were no more an issue. Headless design was found.

Headless may be doable, too. Although not all bodies work well with headless design.

Tuners to both sides of the headstock, like 3+1, 2+2, 3+2. I also like the idea, that the strings are inline from bridge to saddle to tuner. Zero fret and string retainer if needed, phosphorescent side dots are a must. I hate front dots/blocks. I am very bad in designing, that's why links: https://gb.pinterest.com/b25976y/guitar-headstock/ https://www.shutterstock.com/gb/search/guitar-headstock https://www.guitarpedalx.com/news/gpx-blog/the-shape-of-a-guitars-headstock-has-a-significant-impact-on-tuning-stability

As @bertbass wrote, it takes time to find the right gauge. 30-90 was very fun in the 80's. I have tried flats, tapes, bronze, nickel and SS RWs, groundwounds, exotic tunings, piccolo sets etc. I have listened to other people's comments about "the best" set, but in the 90's I started a comprehensive (and pricey!) test of different materials and gauges. B is 120 now, and as slapping isn't needed/wanted/popular anymore, the SS RW 40-95 has been the choice, for me, that is. Testing different sets is time consuming and costs a lot, but after that you know what you want. I use D'Addario and GHS, because of long scale basses, 34"-36". I know nickel would be very suitable for fretless, but I only buy two brands and two sets, and they are always at hand. I tend to change a set every 4-6 months depending on the use.

I bought an MM4 tinted in green with matt lacquer and no front markers. It has very good profile to my hands, and it is as wide as a P (checked this from Dawn). But they refused to sell any other headstock design. I had to ask for a Status neck (like a wide 5), but they said that all other neck designs are sold only as complete Status instruments. Fair game. I sold my first Status lined fretless neck years ago. It was a thin J that I didn't like so much, but this MM4 is excellent. I suppose @Kiwi has to specify the details, and then we'll see his selection of necks. Were the dimensions good or bad to me does not matter, his work matters and is super interesting.

If you start a loudness war, no wattage will be enough. Learn to play hard by thinking your stuff is hard. It is not done with volume, and it sounds very different, much better. (Hard to explain, but when you hear the difference, you understand this.) If something is not heard, lower all other channels, do NOT push more volume!