John Cribbin

Personally, I'd try to avoid a rotary switch like the plague. I had a 2.5k PRS with their 5 way rotary switch. The pops/klunks between positions was one of the reasons I sold it. Has the person who wants it actually lived with a rotary switch before? Three way toggle is much more civilised.

Why not send the photos to Schack and ask them where it's come loose from?

Soldering is something you need to practice - Technique, temperature, clean Tip and Tin regularly. Well there's whole books on soldering, so I won't bore you with my ramblings .... I've looked up your soldering iron, well done on getting one that's up to the job, so many people have problems soldering because they bought something too low powered to do the job. Personally I don't like pointed tips for soldering, I find chisel tips much easier to use, but watch the video linked below. Lead free solder, bin it! Old style 60/40 cored solder is easier to use. Lead free is a health and safety product that works far better in commercial flow soldering machines which is what it was designed for. Obviously if you have concerns about using a product with lead, check it out online. I've probably used Ersin Multicore since the 70's. Tried lead free once, that was enough ... Best advice I can give you, practice and watch a few how to videos on Youtube. I've linked in one below, I've not watched it all, just dragged the and dropped the cursor in a few places to get the gist of what he's doing. Guy is using a pointed tip, so that will help you. He's also cleans his tip the same way I do, better than a sponge in my opinion.

What soldering iron did you buy and what type of solder are you using?

I have a brand new unused one from back in the day (80's?), I'll try and find it with the docs.

Well, here's my Ibanez, originally it would have come with a nonsense barrel jack. The previous owner must have give up with the original ones and converted it to the jack's we know work for decades. The original hole was opened up so the new jack could drop in. Simple lasting solution.

Well they kinda look like a Gotoh generic replacement with a Schaller style gear cover.

If you don't mind a coloured headstock, you could spray it to hide the existing decal and apply the new one on top.

Have to say I've never seen one in action in real life, but on TV some impressive complex items have been produced. If it was mine and I was in mad professor mode ... Cling film on the neck Mix a bit of car body filler - Push into rebate for marker and level with fret board. Carefully lift the cling film when set to remove the solid piece and lightly sand to level up. If you want the glitter effect, try adding some fairy dust from a craft supplier in the mix. Mad professor mode doesn't guarantee perfect results, so try at your own risk!

That job sounds perfect for a 3D printer, if you know anyone with one.

Over the years, I've come across more than one screw made with the strength of cottage cheese, no fun when they shear off. For the last few years, anytime I've needed to remove screws or saddle grub screws, I've replaced them with stainless steel ones for peace of mind. Haven't had to buy any for a year or so, but as I remember depending on size, a couple of quid would supply enough for 1-2 guitars. Large choice on eBay.

Good news a nice simple fix. If only everything could be sorted for a tenner!

Well if you have damaged the clip it's an easy fix. Your guy will either unsolder the whole battery leads, or cut and resolder a new clip. Look on the bright side, better it failed before you go than during the trip.

Yep, just what I thought you'd find. You have USA spec pots fitted, probably 95% + of splined pots over here are Asian spec, that's why the knobs won't fit. About a year ago I was planning to upgrade a PJ bass with CTS pots. Of the thousands of knobs to suit a jazz bass, the only 24 spline knobs I could find were original Fender ones at several times the price of Asian spec ones. I gave up on that plan. The set screw solution is actually pretty sensible IMHO.

Have a look inside and see what brand of pots you have. If there's not to much solder you should be able get the part number as well. Then a Google search will give you the spec of the pots.

OK, something was bugging me with the symptoms. The only way the tuners could get in the audio chain are if they are in the circuit via the ground wire from the bridge, or possibly some weird signal getting into the pickups. From your photo, I don't like that jack socket one little bit, I don't think Ibanez did that work. Normally, the cable would be clamped to the long leg of the socket with the two lugs being bent over. The lugs look like they may have been bent open to remove the cable. The long leg looks twisted and possibly shorting on one of the other lugs. I'd straighten that leg and make sure nothing is touching. Being polite, that type of socket is junk and well known for failure. Maybe someone had a previous problem and poked about? Just in case there is a weird pickup issue, you could use the blend to use one pickup at a time and see if that removes the buzz.

Have you tried a fresh battery? I like to eliminate the easy stuff before to much head scratching happens!

On some forums, there are those stating that the Pure Tone, are better built and will last longer than the Switchcraft. Now considering that there's plenty of kit out there with their original working Switchcraft jack's from the 1950's, that's a pretty brave if not ridiculous position to take. If I make it to 120+, the longevity of a jack socket will be the last thing on my mind. In the meantime, I'll live with stuff that's been tried and tested for longer than I've been alive.

I don't know your amp, or how brave you are .... The sort of problem you describe is very often heat related. A less than secure connection heats up and suddenly contact is lost. A lot of electrical gear these days is hooked up with ribbon connectors, these have a great history of working loose. Personally. I'd pop the lid and push on all the connectors and make sure everything is seated properly. Obviously, taking precautions not to connect yourself directly to the mains. Check for loose screws, sometimes power modules can be bolted to the case as an additional heat sink. Never heard of the 4x2 test, but the drop test was a very common way to 'repair' electrical products and possibly still is.

For a one off item Ebay is probably the best start, usually get a price including delivery. Problem with a lot of stores is the minimum postage is often more than the item.

It's under warranty and defective - Return it. So if you open it up, play around and it still doesn't work, what then? Send it back only to be told, you've tampered with it and voiding the warranty. It's a mechanical foot switch that has failed under warranty, ain't no 'fair wear and tear' nonsense about it. Probably spec'd to have at least 100k activations. Your rights are covered by the Sale of Goods Act.

I do have a preference for nut material but ...... Whatever you use, it only comes into play when playing open strings, once you fret a note the nut material isn't part of the equation.

Off the wall suggestion .... How about a tilt switch? When the guitar is vertical on a stand, it turns off. In the playing position, it turns on.

I'll tick the Dremel type multi tool as well. Don't use mine very often, but it's got me out of more than one hole when nothing else will do.

Try Axecaster for the Switchcraft one. The one fitted is junk.